Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Quote from: Gerry on Today at 02:49:23 AMWhether you leave the fronts unlined depends on how clean any pockets look. Its more of a thing with patch pockets.

Or the facings are extended to the side seams to cover everything (the book mentions this). Though that can make the jacket on the warmer side, which defeats the object.

This is all basic stuff from a '70s book I own, but useful nonetheless (as an overview):







The book recommends a machined hem for the lining (which I think is how that second jacket I posted was done). I suppose a rolled hem by hand is a possibility. If thin enough, the lining on the back could even be done like a trouser waistband, i.e. doubled with its folded edge being at the bottom. The top jacket I posted might have been done like that (it looks folded and I can't see any stitching).

Thanks Gerry!

I thought about hand felling the seams below the lining hem.  But that leaves a row of visible pinpricks on the outside of the cloth, and adds bulk to the seam.  I might try doing a Hong Kong finish in that area.

The narrow front canvas idea sounds sensible.

Any advice on doing the lining hem?

The following are snaps of '50s three buttons I downloaded from vintage clothing traders - they always post multiple pics of a garment so it's usually easy to see how it was made (plus these sites are always a good source of inspiration). The photos show two ways of lining the back:





The top jacket has no lining in the fronts and its seams are clean-finished by the look of things, which was popular at that time. For those not familiar with the term, the seams are cut wider and the excess folded back (wrong sides together). To hold in place, the folded edges are simply top-stitched. It's an alternative to bias binding (and less work). For a belt-and-braces approach, the seam edges can be overlocked before tucking and top-stitching (tends to look neater, though I've only seen this on more modern garments).

In the past it was more common to make the canvas narrower along its length, rather than end it at the waist, if lightness was required. It gave better definition to the fronts IMO. Each to their own though.

Whether you leave the fronts unlined depends on how clean any pockets look. Its more of a thing with patch pockets.

I'm about to start cutting a linen jacket for myself.  Could use a little advice from the more experienced:

- This is for warm weather, so I'm thinking about a half lining.  Done the conventional way in the fronts but with the back and sides hemmed short.

- How long should a half lining be?  Waist length, or a bit longer (or shorter)?

- How to finish the lining hem?  Just double it over, or use a piece of interfacing or tape to reinforce it?

- Should the back lining be left hanging free, or basted down to the seams to the level of the hem?

- Should I canvas the fronts all the way to the hem, or stop the canvas at the waist line (half canvas)?

- Cabrera calls for a double layer of haircloth for the "plastron" in the front canvas.  Would a single layer be sufficient for lighter weight?

Thanks in advance!

Another one gone.

Quote from: Gerry on June 13, 2025, 07:14:24 PMConsidering that there's only one chap left at Cluny who can make the cards to produce the lace, you'd think they'd be a little more proactive in securing the future of the company. This cries out for a collaboration with one of the local universities (research projects with industry are a common thing). At the very least they could digitise the cards somehow, so that the patterns aren't lost; and ideally develop a computer-controlled machine to punch out the cards. Preferably in a more resilient plastic.

I dare say they could tap the government for a grant to pay for all this, in the name of preserving a 'heritage' company. Nottingham is one of the most depressed areas of the UK, so it would be good PR. The city once produced silk, cotton and lace on an industrial scale. Now it's only known for its high crime rate.

There are a few companies like this throughout the UK. Their Victorian/Edwardian machinery was so over-engineered and long-lasting, they never thought to update it. Plus the quality couldn't be bettered.

Interestingly, in France, the big holdings like Kering, LVMH and Hermes are buying up these artisans and ateliers all over France and even Belgium. One of the oldest tanneries in belgium was taken over by Louis Vuitton a while ago.
Lace has been doing well actually in France, visit

https://www.dentelledecalaiscaudry.fr/

and see where the likes of Dior and Co. get theirs...

Regarding techniques and craftmanship there is a fabulous museum the Netherlands in what used to be the  textile town of Tiburg. Knowhow is preserved but with an eye on the future. There are ultramodern automated looms for experiment and development as well as artistry. The idea of the 3d knitted footwear, that is everywear now, was actually ignited in their lab.

A kind of offspring

https://byborre.com/

Develops and designs amazing stuff, also on demand.

Okay, back to work,

Cheers, Hendrick

Considering that there's only one chap left at Cluny who can make the cards to produce the lace, you'd think they'd be a little more proactive in securing the future of the company. This cries out for a collaboration with one of the local universities (research projects with industry are a common thing). At the very least they could digitise the cards somehow, so that the patterns aren't lost; and ideally develop a computer-controlled machine to punch out the cards. Preferably in a more resilient plastic.

I dare say they could tap the government for a grant to pay for all this, in the name of preserving a 'heritage' company. Nottingham is one of the most depressed areas of the UK, so it would be good PR. The city once produced silk, cotton and lace on an industrial scale. Now it's only known for its high crime rate.

There are a few companies like this throughout the UK. Their Victorian/Edwardian machinery was so over-engineered and long-lasting, they never thought to update it. Plus the quality couldn't be bettered.

That's really amazing. An great aunt made something by hand.a number of things.

Quote from: Herrick Postman on February 01, 2025, 07:19:48 AMHow goes the battle dress project?
For reenactment?

Just for fun haha. It has finished few months ago. Here's some photo back then.