Advice on this sloper?

[peterle]

Fishform just means double pointed, like the dart in the back of a shirt.


Schneiderfrei, that´s how we stabler geniuses do a great job. 

[Schneiderfrei]

He he.

[krudsma]

I've drafted and added the sleeves. Now I'm noticing that the shoulders feel very tight. You can see this in the drag lines from the shoulder to the chest pin. Is this a problem with how I've cut the sleeves, or with the bodice?

[Petruchio]

It looks to me, as if you have to rotate the sleevehead forward and maybe also give a little more room in the sleevehead. Looking at your older pictures the shoulder width seems to be cut rather narrow, which might add to it. also did you let out the shoulder a little bit as posaune suggested? Might still be necessary a tad more. But lets see what the professionals say

[peterle]

It´s hard to say with the neckhole unpinned. Please take pics with closed neckhole.

Will it be a shirt sloper or an overgarment?

[krudsma]

Sorry, here's the pics with the neck closed:



It looks like I still have some work to do... sigh...

The fronts are now gaping open at the belly again. The back seems to fit well, and I did slightly increase the right shoulder angle because of my dropped shoulder, which helps the weird wrinkle that was forming there.

As for the sleeves, let me give some context. I started with a slightly higher cap, had some severe wrinkling and pulling unless I rotated my arm about 30° backward:



Thus, I shifted the sleevecap so that it hangs more neatly. The blue line is the sleeve as it is in the picture above, the red line is how it is now. I have no idea if this is the correct way to adjust sleeve pitch, but it seemed to make sense to me:



I also tried drafting a sleeve with a wider and shorter cap, which produced intense wrinkles (seam is inside out but the sleeve is facing the correct direction):





I'm at a bit of a loss as to what to do next. Clearly there's still some problems to solve in the bodice. It isn't tight at the armpit so I'm not sure why it's tight at the chest.

And to answer your question peterle, the patternmaking book I'm using has you draft a basic "top sloper" that can be adapted to either shirts or overgarments. I plan to use it for a shirt-style jacket but it would be nice to be able to adapt it to shirts as well.

As always, all of your input is greatly appreciated!

[Gerry]

Looking at your earlier pics (minus sleeves - see link) I'm not seeing much in the way of seam allowance around the armholes. In which case, you've possibly 'robbed' some of the material from the bodice. Hence the tightness?

https://postimg.cc/5QwK421B

[krudsma]

That's an interesting thought but I don't think so - I've got the seamline marked on both the sleeve and the armhole and they're matched up pretty exactly. I can feel my shoulders getting "squeezed" by the sleeves which makes me think that the sleevecap is wrong somehow.

[peterle]

I do have some questions:

Are You aware, that the sleeve drawings show a left and a right sleeve? The front of the blue-red drawing is at the right, whereas the front of the red drawing faces to the left.

Does the sleeve seam meet the side seam under the arm after you changed from blue to red?

Do you have a lot of ease in the sleeve head?

In any case the pic with the arrows shows a much more relaxed sleevhead and there seems to be no pulling at the back and chest. I think you should proceed with the blue version and it´s fuller crown. Changing the shape of the crown will reduce the folds.

I want you to look carefully to the sleeve heads in your pattern book and compare their shapes with your drawings to get a feeling for crown shapes.

[krudsma]

Thanks peterle! To answer your questions:

Are You aware, that the sleeve drawings show a left and a right sleeve? The front of the blue-red drawing is at the right, whereas the front of the red drawing faces to the left.

I am - I had already cut and attached the blue/red sleeve and I wanted to compare it to one with a wider sleevehead, so I cut that one for the other sleeve.

Does the sleeve seam meet the side seam under the arm after you changed from blue to red?

It does

Do you have a lot of ease in the sleeve head?

I think there's an appropriate amount - My actual bicep measures 11" and I made the sleeve 14" at the armpit level

In any case the pic with the arrows shows a much more relaxed sleevhead and there seems to be no pulling at the back and chest. I think you should proceed with the blue version and it´s fuller crown. Changing the shape of the crown will reduce the folds.

I think you're right, and comparing the pics again now it seems that I've completely screwed up where the crown should be. I'll go back to the blue version, but could you elaborate on how I can change the shape of the crown to reduce the folds?

I want you to look carefully to the sleeve heads in your pattern book and compare their shapes with your drawings to get a feeling for crown shapes.

I'll go back and check them again.

[peterle]

Sorry, my fault: when I asked for the ease I wanted to know wether your cap seam line is longer than your scye seam line.

[krudsma]

Ahhh I see. No, they're exactly the same length.

[peterle]

Ok, Thanks.

First I would elongate the shoulder seams for about 1 to 1,5cm. Elongate and reshape the armhole lines to the new point. (The left shoulder seam placement looks good to me, but the right seems a bit to short. But make them both equal for symmetry).

The sleevhead: Starting with the blue version I would  shift B a tad to the right and draw the section from 4 to B fuller. Thus the line gets steeper at B. I would continue the line in the run and scoop out the lower (concave) curve more.

I recommend to walk the armhole line with the tape measure and mark the spots on the cap line where it meets the dart, the shoulder seam and a chosen point of the front armhole.

[posaune]

To illustrate what I think Peterle means: Look here. No fabric for your forward shoulder. It pulls. and you see the shoulder is not long enough. The right shoulder is shorter than the left and so the sleeve
This is not easy to tackle for a beginner.

lg Posaune
I just looked at the original draft in the book - I really see another sleeve cap as the one you showed us. It is much more shaped. I think you should just draft again as shown and then modifing it,  reshaping  the cap for a forward shoulder. You cut it horizontal at the upper /3 and shove the upper cap part to the front. You glue it together and reshape it. This will release  more width quicker in front  and give more length to follow from the back.

[krudsma]

That makes sense, I'll give that a try. Thank you!