Advice on this sloper?

[peterle]

I asked, because I was playing with the thought wether your shoulders are a bit forward. This would cause a looser chest and a tighter back, because the width distribution between front and back would be a bit different to the norm body.(stretched back width, crunched chest width).
Long story short: I was considering wether it is enough to add some length to the back or if it´s necessary to address the width also.
Just forget it, when you feel comfortable.

[krudsma]

Ok, added 1.5cm to the back balance. It does seem to help the shoulder blades and side seam balance, however as you said it makes the back armhole gape a bit. Any way to mitigate this without the use of a yoke or a dart? I saw a suggestion somewhere that you could "sweep" the excess up into the shoulder seam, but I have a suspicion that this would effect how the back neckline sits.

[peterle]

Doesn´t look bad, does it?

You want a basic pattern for several garments. The only aim for such a pattern is to get the perfect fit. Threedimensional forming can only be done with darts and seams. That´s what a yoke seam is for. That´s why I strongly recommend to do a yoke or at least the horizontal darts in your basic pattern to get a good fit  and get rid of the gaping.
Once you have finished your basic pattern and nailed the fit it will be the base for developing a specific pattern for a specific garment. Only then it´s the right time to decide how to deal with the dart. For example it can be shifted towards the shoulder seam as a whole or partly and for certain fabrics it will be possible to ease it in so it gets invisible.
But You gonna need this darts in your basic pattern.

[krudsma]

I see. So I should add the dart now, include it in my basic pattern and then figure out how to apply it to each specific garment, is that right? Other than the dart, would you say I'm ready to move onto the sleeve? Or is there anything else I should address in the body first?
Thanks for the advice!

[posaune]

In that stage  I would pull the back shoulder up say 1.5 cm taper to nothing at neck and pin out a 2 cm dart in the center of the back armhole till there where your shoulder blades are. As you need only to pin it, nothing lost. And try the garment on pin it close with just one pin  at bust level. the pin at belly high look a bit suspicious.  Look if the Cf will stay closed. 
The right shoulder looks okay for me the left needs a bit more length.
lg
posaune

[krudsma]

Thanks posaune. Here's with the back shoulder adjustment:




And with the 2cm dart:



Those both appear to help, although I think 2cm might be too much, the armhole feels quite tight. 1cm might be a good compromise. And good call on the second pin, as the front does gape open a bit. Is that a result of the stomach being too tight, or the chest?

[peterle]

I see. So I should add the dart now, include it in my basic pattern and then figure out how to apply it to each specific garment, is that right?

Yes, exactly. Thus you can adapt your pattern to a certain style, to the weave, material and pattern of your fabric ecc.

You´re not wearing somthing underneath when fitting, Do you aim for a shirt pattern now?

The new pics:
The darts are much too deep. A 2cm dart means you take out 1cm on each side of the dart center line, (makes 2cm totally) Seems you took out 4cm totally. The darts are also too long the tips should end 1 to 1,5cm before they reach the apex point of the blades.

Concerning the pulled up back shoulder I´m not sure. For the right shoulder Posaune will comment, wether the desired effect is reached. For my taste  it seems to pull the front backwards a bit to much. On the left shoulder it seems the necklines of front and back don´t match, that will disturb the area massively.

[krudsma]

Ah, you're right I did 4cm. So 2cm should be perfect then.

Edit: Ok, that did the trick. I'm very happy with the fit now, other than the fronts swinging open slightly. Should I just release a bit of the lower front seam allowance, or is this caused by a different issue?

[peterle]

The darts look good now and the back looks ok.
But there are severe stress folds from the pin towards the shoulder bones now at the front. I´m quite sure they are caused by the " pulled up back shoulder". I would undo this alteration to verify.

A gaping front can have different reasons. One is, the hem is simply not wide enough. Measure your body circ at hem level (wearing pants) and compare it to the width of the sloper´s hem (center front to center front).

[krudsma]

Here's with the shoulder put back the way it was:



I think part of the stress folds are because of forward shoulders. I have a hard time telling if the shoulder seam is falling in the right place - everything I've read says it should fall on the shoulder bone, but I can't tell which part of my shoulder that is. Is it hitting in the right place, and if not is someone able to circle it for me?

[posaune]

way better. you have put in 3 cm in the back and taken out 2 cm at back armhole now. It seems balanced.
Look at the left side: See how your belly stands before the bust. The line from the highest shoulder point  parts the arm in center.  At the back we see that your right shoulder is more down as the left and here is a little fold . maybe armhole must be cut depper or the shoulder angle must be a bit more. Then the left side front at the shoulder I see a fold which originates at the shoulder point. my impression is that you should outlet the point a bit. In the side view I see the the front rises a bit at the hem. But this I see only at the left side and the CF left curves to the outside more than the right. So it mayb be that the left shoulder pulls the CF to the out side and/or a bit more cm is needed at side seam. Peterle, what do you think?
lg posaune

[peterle]

Looks a lot relaxter in my eyes. For the diagonal pull at the front I would like to see a pic with the neckhole pinned close. The 9th feb. pics don´t show this drag lines (but done without undershirt). probably the shoulders a bit hollow. with a slightly protruding front shoulder. my solution would be: drawing a parallel line about 3cm to the front of the shoulder seam and pin out a fish form dart taking out about 1cm in the middle of the line, fading to 0 towards neckline and armhole. When it works I would take this line as my new seamline. It also makes it easier to install a bit more space for the shoulder bone when needed.

I´not yet sure about the fronts. Maybe the hem is just not wide enough.(hips wider than the chest) I´ll wait for the measuring results. Maybe it is a forward belly posture, although I would expect a different direction of the creases. Your idea - the left shoulder pulls the front diagonally - sounds quite reasonable. and would explain  why the right front (the low shoulder side) is not affected. Maybe just making the left shoulder angle a bit less steep will do the trick? Would be an easy alteration and is worth a try.

[krudsma]

Thank you both! I'll give those a try today and post the results.

[Schneiderfrei]

Hi peterle, I am loving kicking back in Australiain a more relaxter way than when Mr Trump was president.

[krudsma]

Peterle (or anyone), would you mind showing me an example of a fishform dart? I've googled around and can't seem to find it, it's not a term I've seen before.