How to sew that little triangle?

[posaune]

I am sewing a blouse and I have done (very) curved hems. I have done the hem before closing the side seams.
Now I want to sew from the inside one of those little triangles to secure the side seam.
I folded a piece of fabric, so that the base is on the bias. But what now? I did not find a "clean looking" solution.
Does somebody know how it is done?
lg
posaune
it is a birthday gift!

[Hendrick]

Hi, I have an antique; I'll try to take some pics tomorrow...

[spookietoo]

I probably do mine the labor intensive route, but they're so tiny and fussy, I'd rather take the extra time upfront rather than have to redo.

I starch and press the piece very flat with 1/4" turns on all sides. Then I use a fixitive to temporarily glue in place. After that, a nice clean edge stitch is easy.

For some reason, I saw a photo of a shirt that used small pentagrams instead of triangles. So now I use pentagrams. Something about it seems less bulky. Don't know why.

Interested in hearing others thoughts.

[peterle]

from the "Wiener Nähbuch" 1944

"Stockzwickel"




Divide a 4-5cm on grain square diagonally and fold the edges in 0,75cm. Sew half of the straight sides into the slash (overcasting). Now fold the bias side upwards and make its center cover the  tip of the triangle. Pin the bias edge halfs in a way the remaining on grain sides lie on grain on the shirt. Baste, edge sew and crop those little SA pieces.

[Schneiderfrei]

I would do a pentagram.  But, I have done triangles, especially on an 18th C Linen shirt.  Peterle's example is the same as I used.

G

[Tailleuse]

In English, it's called a "gusset."

[posaune]

Well....................... finished. Do you sew garments - where ALL are going wrong? This Blouse cost me 1 week!!  And I got in return a strand of gray hairs.
It was a well aged cotton flanell - maybe 1970. The pattern where little squares but the fabric was somehow stretched. So the pattern did not match exactly.
I wanted the button stand in the bias but my fabric was sparse. I could not cut it in one I had to cut an extra facing and could not match the pattern again. I had to piece the collar and the stand ......a.s.o. then  the litlle triangle.  I just did not get it how it was descripted in the Wiener Nähschule. In the book "Chemise" it was shown better, but it was to bulky. I invented something of my own. (ohoh) The last action was that the 7th buttonhole was not rightly spaced so I had to unpick the last 2.
Nothing happened while sewing the buttons on! Yeah.
Now it is on the way
Thanks for your support and reading my ranting
lg
posaune

[Schneiderfrei]

Even Acorn tattersals flannel pulls terribly at the seams.

I feel your pain posaune.

[TTailor]

Oh yes, i have had those kind of projects too!

[spookietoo]

Now that you mention it, I remember sewing flannel  and having problems - though it was a printed design - and thankfully in my younger less critical days. Something to keep in mind though as I use the stash. Good heads up!

Oh well, now it's done and gone, a glass of wine and all will be better for the next project!

[Schneiderfrei]

I think in general flannel needs to have a slightly higher thread tension, top and bottom threads, on the machine. Also smaller stitches?

G

[pfaff260]

Hapens to us all now and then. And still we love sewing!

[posaune]

"Even Acorn"
By the way, Schneiderfrei, have you had a look at acorn recently? I think the collection is a bit dull now.  I wanted to order before Brexit - but I can't find much what pleases me. I order maybe since 15 years but this winter the collection is..................... boring in my eyes.

lg
posaune

[Schneiderfrei]

I have noticed posaune,

Especially in their email ads. Loads of "Interesting" fibre types.

Part of the problem is the disorganisation of the new style website.

I have found many of my old favourites, but they are harder to find, too many clicks.

There are reduced colours and numbers of checks etc.

You can still get the black tie, formal stuff, and poplins and some of the dobby weaves but there are more "Jazzy" prints and odd fibre combos to sift through.

Hopefully they will grow out of this phase???

G

[posaune]

He, schneiderfrei

They have heard us. The colors are back again. Mostly checks but HOPE is rising. Maybe it will be a big order before Brexit.
Between the linen blend was nice and with the changing climate a future fabric.
lg
posaune