Help needed

[Philipdep]

Hello all-

As someone who is still learning the trade, this forum has really been a great source of information for me. I had a question about a coat that I'm currently making. There is some puckering around the front edges that I thought I could shrink away as I did the ironwork, and it did shortly, but after working for a few hours, it came back. I'm confused as to what the problem is--I'm thinking that maybe I stitched the edge tape too tight and it was more than could be shrunk away? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

[peterle]

I´m sure you know that you always should preshrink the edgetape before attaching it.
But I don´t think it is necessarly the edge tape, because  the edge of the lapel is completely clean, no creasing.
How does the front look inside? Is it also puckering?
If not, I think probably the lapel piece is a tad too short and makes the outer fabric and haircloth pucker. Did you stretch the inner edge (where the lining gets sewn to) of the lapel piece before attaching it?

[Philipdep]

Ahh that must be it then. The inside is completely clean. Maybe I'm misremembering what I read or perhaps I'm not completely understanding your comment-- I shrunk away fullness in the facing where the lining gets attached. The cloth I'm using, despite being 100% virgin wool, doesn't seem to take to shrinking and stretching the way I thought it would. Maybe I'm being too gentle on it? Thanks for the help!

[peterle]

The lapel facing is the outer layer at the lapel fold. This eats up length. To compensate you have to stretch (!) the inner edge of the facing. For fabrics that are not stretchable by iron you even should slash an pivot the facing pattern after you´d copied it from the front pattern to achieve the needed length.

Why did you shrink the facing? Did your pattern call for it?

[Philipdep]

That makes total sense.

I was watching a series on youtube and it looked to me like the tailor had added the fullness into the pattern and then it was shrunk away later.

[Philipdep]

Coat finished. It seems that after pressing for the final time, any wrinkles or puckering press out but then after a day or so seem to reappear. Still not sure if it was the tape or the facing piece. Other coats I've made don't have this problem and I usually don't stretch the facing...I'm thinking maybe that the edge tape was tighter than it should have been. I've also heard that linen edge tape has a tendency to make these waves in the front edge unlike bias lining. Any other thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

[TTailor]

We always use cotton India tape to tape our edges and have not found it to be a problem
You must wash it in hot water and dry it to preshrink it.

It may be that it has been applied to tightly, or, there was a problem when the canvas was first put in.
The only real way to fix it, would have been to release the facing, the tape and canvas, and put it on a stand to see which part is causing the issue. It means going backwards, yes.

I don,p't know if you are in the habit of checking your work on the stand as you go, but I always recommend that to beginner and experienced tailors.
We work on our tables or our laps, and are constantly looking at the pieces horizontally but they become vertical when worn. Problems with tension, canvas installation, etc are much easier to see this way. Gravity and the way the light falls on the garment will show any issues  before they become permanent problems.

[TTailor]

One more thought regarding using linen tape or india tape on curved edges.

When installing a non bias to a curved line, take great care that the outer edge of the tape lays easy along the curved edge. This will mean that the inner edge of the tape will have a little bit of excess as it travels a shorted distance around the curve.

[Hendrick]

Considering myself a dressmaker at best (I cut my first and last men's coat 30 some years ago...), I have never used any non-bias tape on curved edges. I do remember how tape was practically boiled and dried before being used in tailoring.

[TTailor]

Considering myself a dressmaker at best (I cut my first and last men's coat 30 some years ago...), I have never used any non-bias tape on curved edges. I do remember how tape was practically boiled and dried before being used in tailoring.

Its interesting that a technique used widely in some places is totally not the normal in others!
I always taped my roll line first, then padstitched. Imagine my shock to see it done the other way! And not using india tape! Controlling the roll line with a wide piece of lining!🤔😮

[Schneiderfrei]

In the "ABC des Schneiderhandwerk" which is from the thirties, it is practice to cut the inside edge of the linen tape at near 1 cm intervals around curves.  The cut distance I am referring to is for the arm scye of a waist coat.  If it were me, doing the front edge of the jacket, it might be 2 cm to 3 cm between cuts, depending on the curve.

[pfaff260]

We where thaught to use the selvage of lining. preferably that of sleevelining and as Terry said: be carefull with the tension.
Bias tape, you first have to make it wet and then iron it so it looses its stretching. Ironing it dead, as we call it.

[peterle]

Philipdep you did a nice job matching the checks and the lounge coats looks quite good. But may I point out some details to achieve a bit more sophisticated look? When using different silk for the lapel buttonhole be sure to choose a contrasting color or use the same as for the other buttonholes. Otherwise it looks like you ran out of the right silk.
I would choose a darker button. Your´s is quite light and it pops out. The button will get all the attention istead of your tailoring work.
There is also a rule for placing darts and seams in checks: Prominent vertical stripes should be kept intact. You should avoid to make a stripe vanish completely and interrupt it with the vertical front dart. Therefore in your fabric it would be better to place the dart in the middle between two doublestripes instead of onto it. Sometimes the dart must be shifted a bit to achieve this goal. Same principle is valid for the placement of the center back seam.

[spookietoo]

Quick question if I may:

Had to look up "India Tape" having never heard of/seen it before. I've only ever used cotton twill tape or selvedges.

Would India tape have less bulk for lighter weight fabrics even after pre-shrinking? Any other upside?

I've never used bias tape on a front edge. Seems a bit counter intuitive regarding stability.

Inquiring minds.....and all that....

[Hendrick]

Thank you for all your posts, very interesting...