1959 Rundschau Shirt - English Translation

[Schneiderfrei]

The Men's Shirt

Main Measurements:             ½        ¼     ⅛ 
Kg = Body Height      176 cm    88 — 44 — 22
Ow = Chest                96 cm     48 — 24 — 12
Al = Arm Length      76 cm at the fold, Shoulder width 16 cm

Auxillary Measurements:                Calculations
Hw = Neck diameter      39 cm             Measured on the Body
Sp = Back neck Mirror   6,5 cm           1/6 Neck diameter
at = Back Arm Depth    23,4 cm           1/10 Ow + 1/10 h.Kg + 5cm
Rl = Back Length      47 cm                  ¼  Kg + 3 cm
Lg = Total Length      90 cm                   ½  Kg + 2 — 4 cm
Vl = Front Length      45 cm                   Rl minus 2 cm
Ad = Armhole Width    15,5 cm                         ⅛ Ow + 3 — 4 cm

BACK AND FRONT: fig. 317

Draw a square from point A.  From here one measures: til RH (at [rear armscye depth] + an extra 3-4 cm), til Tl the waist length and until Lg, the total length.

After drawing off the squares, one must measure from RH— BB half bust + 9 — 10 cm, with S found in the middle of RH — BB.  Measure from S by 1/2 Ad (see Auxiliary Calculations) to AV and RB.

From T, til H1, the front length is measured upwards, and from H1 a square is drawn to the right.

NECK SEAM, SHOULDER, ARMSCYE:  The distance A—W amounts respectively to 1/10 half neck width, the line A — h = SP (above).  From H1 — h1 one must measure as much down as from A — W.  The width of the neck seam H1 —H is Sp minus 0.5 cm.  The depth of h1 — H2 is SP + 1 cm.  The distance a — ah and At — Ah each amount to 1/10 half Ow minus 1 cm.

YOKE SECTION: Measure 4.5 cm down from W, and square the yoke seam to the armscye.  In the front, one cuts off an approximately 4 cm wide shoulder piece, applying this to the back yoke as shown in the template.  Remove 2 cm from the armscye under the back yoke.

PLEATS, FRONT OVERLAP AND SIDE SEAM: The mid-back has about 6 cm for the pleat and the mid-front a 2 cm wide addition to the front overlap. If the front overlap is not carried out to the bottom edge, then about 3 cm below T include a pleat 4-6 cm wide.

SLEEVES AND CUFFS: - fig. 318 

Next (on a folded sheet of paper) draw a baseline angle and define K.  Then measure from K — B ½ armscye circumference.  Measure the arm length: K is introduced from the shoulder seam and subtract 5.5 cm (the cuff) to obtain L.  On the left of the perpendicular line of L — L1, half cuff width + 4 cm is provided and L1 is connected to B.  From B — C measure down 1/10 half of Ow + 2 cm and the shoulder curve (sphere) is drawn according to the template: the dotted line comes forward.  Draw the side seam according to the template.

Draft the cuff according to fig. 318.

COLLAR TYPES: – figs. 319— 323

The detachable collar: Fig. 319 shows the draft of the neckband. Fig. 320 the detachable, normal collar, the front flow of the collar is where to adjust for the respective mode.  The regular seamed collar is indicated in fig. 321.

Collar setting for high neck is in fig. 322, and can be seen on the line A-a. The collar installation of for short neck is located on page 136 (though it has been pasted into the bottom section of this main body front draft by a kind person).

All seams allowances have yet to be added!

137

See also: http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=1200.0