Fitting video

[Petruchio]

Hi there. So I stumbled over the following video and had some questions on some of the tweaking the tailor does. I hope everybody is able to see the video:

https://www.instagram.com/p/B1Bgu7En4Oj/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

On the front of the shirt the tailor pinned some fabric horizontally in the armhole and I was just wondering how one would transfer that to a pattern, because this might be helpful for one of my own fittings.

[posaune]

In my opinion he adresses the shoulder angle. He pins it out a front and back  horizontal. But combined with the shoulder length, which is pinned out too and the pinned width  at the back,  he moves the armhole.  The fold across back neck is not addressed yet.
posaune

[Hendrick]

Good thing the shirt is made from waste fabric...

[Schneiderfrei]

The neck fold bothers me also. I hope he didn't finish with the video.

It's a good question of how he will transfer these changes to the pattern.

It seems to me there are a couple of possibilities.

1 least likely, the customer wants a shirt in that style and the tailor takes a bigger one, marks the changes and cuts it down to re-sew. But, this would surely cost a great deal to do.  You could do it for yourself if you have a lot of time.

2 more likely, the tailor knows the dimensions of the shirt and its pattern, or may simply measure off the new dimensions of the shirt and transfers them to a new draft. Then the shirt might be re-drafted or more likely the measurements are applied directly to an existing pattern, which is then altered to make the new shirt. 

Adjustments are always written onto the pattern/draft, and dated.

G

[theblacksheep]

generally, if pinning and pinching like this, i would suggest keeping the shape of the flat pattern at the front of your mind and then pin in the same way you would make an adjustment on the pattern; too often, i've seen adjustments made on garments with pins, etc., commented, and then passed to the cutter with no consideration for how the adjustments are actually to be carried out. ideally, the one adjusting the pattern should carry out the fitting.

regarding the video more specifically, the shirt should at least be ironed and pressed prior to fitting, even if it is waste fabric. make a sloped shoulder adjustment by shifting the armhole down, and bring the shoulder length in. increase the back shaping through the yoke for the blades if necessary and consider moving the style line down.

s.

[Schneiderfrei]

Excellent suggestions theblacksheep.

[Petruchio]

generally, if pinning and pinching like this, i would suggest keeping the shape of the flat pattern at the front of your mind and then pin in the same way you would make an adjustment on the pattern; too often, i've seen adjustments made on garments with pins, etc., commented, and then passed to the cutter with no consideration for how the adjustments are actually to be carried out. ideally, the one adjusting the pattern should carry out the fitting.

regarding the video more specifically, the shirt should at least be ironed and pressed prior to fitting, even if it is waste fabric. make a sloped shoulder adjustment by shifting the armhole down, and bring the shoulder length in. increase the back shaping through the yoke for the blades if necessary and consider moving the style line down.

s.

Great advice, thank you. Just wondering: what is the style line? Never heard the term before. Also, how would you do the shifting of the armhole, I only always added balance to the back and took it away in the front.