Help! The Rundschau System for Lounge Coats

[scissorspaper]

Hey guys, with everything that's going on right on i've been trying to draft my first suit jacket.

Draft used - The Rundschau System for Lounge Coats

So my current issue is about the jacket side seam pocket wedge (pictured below at 1).

Questions:
1. To achieve wedge: Draft indicates abkneifen/pinching by cutting pattern from pocket to hem.
• It doesn't state amount to pinch, but other draft seems to be 0.5cm to a maximum of 1cm.
• Is this arbitrary?

2. A more modern draft (Slimline suit on M. Mueller & Sohn) seems to shows the wedge being drafted without pinching.
• Which is an easier draft

Cheers people and stay safe

[posaune]

If you look closely they have in the second draft these pinching already in. look at the grainline. It is rotated.
lg
posaune

[pfaff260]

This wedge makes sure your jacket falls nicely over the stomage. In earlier days it was sometimes called tonneau wich means barrelshape. Otherwise larger sizes get to much cloth under the belly.
The system i learned uses the difference between breast und waist meassure as a guideline. But Rundschau usualy sticks to 1 cm in the older drafts. It literally say in the books: open up the pocket 1 cm bij making this wedge. Hope this tells you what you wanted to know.

[pfaff260]

This wedge makes sure your jacket falls nicely over the stomage. In earlier days it was sometimes called tonneau wich means barrelshape. Otherwise larger sizes get to much cloth under the belly.
The system i learned uses the difference between breast und waist meassure as a guideline. But Rundschau usualy sticks to 1 to 1,5 cm in the older drafts. It literally say in the books: open up the pocket 1 cm bij making this wedge. Hope this tells you what you wanted to know.

[scissorspaper]

Wow, i'm still on my draft. Its pretty hard to fit myself. Going through so many muslins!

I'm shocked by the date I first posted this

Questions!
1. 0.75cm Seam allowance --> Have they all been highlighted in red?
2. Does this reduce/lower height of the thick blue lines  down by 0.75cm as well?
   - i.e. If RB-S = 5cm, after seam allowance = 4.25cm


Going through a lot of books/resources but my low shoulder seems to be quite bad, ive dropped the shoulder and neck point by almost 1.5inch. Must be doing something wrong so im redrawing my pattern.

[Hendrick]

Maybe a snapshot of your draft will clarify any aberations...

[scissorspaper]

Pardon the blotches, just came out of the shower. And poor quality, it's past midnight!

Changes made to draft.
1. Higher gorge
2. Didn't extend/lower front edge by 5/8" (1.5cm)
    - Prefer equal length front and back. Also to check for balance
3. Back and side panel suppression 3/4" (instead of 5/8" or 1.5cm)
4. Seam allowances removed - used 1/4" (instead of 0.75cm)
5. Neck width of 3.5" instead of 3.25" as in draft.
    - back neck was tight and formed a bubble along my neck
6. Made the dart extend till hem and added width to muslin. So I minimise cutting fabric and easier for changes




I'll make this thread into a journal form. Helps with my issues and hope others can avoid making so many muslins!

Will do it up tomorrow.

Notes
1. Noticed low shoulder, diagonal drag lines // \\ from the middle of my back to waist
2. Hem hikes up at mid back
3. Probably have one lower shoulder, right side? (clarify)

[peterle]

Changes made to draft:
#2: You have to lower the front edge to get a horizontal hemline/equal length, because the body consumes the added length. (You also did it to the front waistline). The balance should be checked at the marked chestline/waistline and not the hem.
#3: More surpression shortens the diagonal from the pocket to the shoulderblades and can cause diagonal folds.
#4: why did you change the SA? is your sewing machine foot only 1/4" wide?
#5: Be aware that a bubble at the neck can have different causes, not necessarely a too tight back neck. Did you also widen the front neckhole then?

Notes:
#1 diagonal folds can have different causes (look #3above). without pics it´s impossible to say somthing.
#2 When the hem hikes up the back balance is most probably relatively too short. Does the back chestline also hike up?  Balance issues have to be solved first, an eventually hanging side can be cared for later.

A tip: Fitting one self is nearly impossible and very frustrating. Skip making thousands of muslins, take a friend and an afternoon and make a gummed paper strip dummy of yourself. It´s so much easier to pin fit than trial and error.

[Schneiderfrei]

The Hofenbitzer Schnittkonstruktion book has wonderful instructions for a self fitting dummy.

[scissorspaper]

I'll solve the balance issue first.

Back
- Bubbles at neck
• Neck point too high?

- Balance lines are like ^ or an upside down U instead of --- straight
- Hem ^

Front
Apart from obvious issues - the RIGHT FRONT hem, relative to left - drops by around 0.5"

Side
- Diagonal folds // \\

[scissorspaper]

Poulin says in order to correct balance issue of
• Front too long / back too short

1. You can either LOWER/REDUCE the FRONT SHOULDER + deepen armhole/revers
2. CUT OFF SHADED wedge indicated at Z and Y + ADD HEM at X
    - thus, neck point increases

I'll do it soon. Too much sewing today!

[scissorspaper]

Changes made to draft:
#2: You have to lower the front edge to get a horizontal hemline/equal length, because the body consumes the added length. (You also did it to the front waistline). The balance should be checked at the marked chestline/waistline and not the hem.
#3: More surpression shortens the diagonal from the pocket to the shoulderblades and can cause diagonal folds.
#4: why did you change the SA? is your sewing machine foot only 1/4" wide?
#5: Be aware that a bubble at the neck can have different causes, not necessarely a too tight back neck. Did you also widen the front neckhole then?

Notes:
#1 diagonal folds can have different causes (look #3above). without pics it´s impossible to say somthing.
#2 When the hem hikes up the back balance is most probably relatively too short. Does the back chestline also hike up?  Balance issues have to be solved first, an eventually hanging side can be cared for later.

A tip: Fitting one self is nearly impossible and very frustrating. Skip making thousands of muslins, take a friend and an afternoon and make a gummed paper strip dummy of yourself. It´s so much easier to pin fit than trial and error.

Very interesting! Haven't heard of a gummed paper strip dummy. Looking into it for sure. How accurate is it?

Yup added pictures definitely help, just added them

Also how does the front neck widen? From the draft it seems as if the FRONT neck point really just sets the curve from the lapel to collar

[posaune]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLT6vsfkkkI
here is the process. Needs about 1.5 - 2 hours.
lg
posaune

[Schneiderfrei]

Thank you very much posaune, I had forgotten about that video.

[peterle]

A paper strip dummy is very accurate. It´s also the method all the haute couture houses use so they don´t bother their customers to much with fittings.

Always do the fittings with a shirt (and waistcoat) underneath, when you want to wear it also later.

You center back seams to be pulled toghether and ripples. Is it the basting or do you have a lot of inlay there?

Did you ease in the back shoulder seam to the front to create some room for the blades? The back shoulder is a bit longer for this purpose.