ABC des Schneiderhanswerk - The Seams (Translated)

[Schneiderfrei]

Sorry for the spelling mistake in the title, sorry Hans, i should say.

This section of Volume 1 of the ABC des Schneiderhandwerks continues on from the "Stitches" to cover special seams involved in tailoring.

Thank you Peterle.

Some of these terms are ones I have never encountered before. If anyone can provide the correct English terms I would be very grateful.

Private Study Only

The Positive (visible) Seams

The Scissor Seam [Scherennaht], Abbildung 84

serves to join the edges of darts in a canvas inlay, preventing the overlapping of the borders. 

Abb. 84.
The Scissor Seam.

First, a narrow strip of lining is attached to the underside of the canvas/inlay and then the stitches are carried out 'once left' 'once right', as shown in the diagram.

The Knitwear Seam (Die Stricknaht), Abbildung 85.

This is used with velvet and plush.  The knitted seam is actually an upside down back stitch seam, see Abb 70.  With the back stitch seam the single or discrete stitches lie on top, the (half) overlapping stitches lie underneath. With the knitwear stitch it is the other way around.
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By using this kind of stitch, one avoids the reciprocal shifting of the "Pile", that is, the right side surface of the velvet or Plush.  When sewing by machine the upstanding pile fibres can easily slide.  To produce such a seam, the needle is inserted at the place shown by arrow 1 and guided out at 2, then inserted again at arrow 3 and guided out again at arrow 1.  Thus the half overlapping stitches lie on top, below only discrete stitches.

Abb. 85.
The Knitwear Stitch.

The Fell Seam (Die Kappnaht), Abbildung 86 und 87.

can be produced as a simple or folded fell seam.

Simple narrow fell seams, and also wide fell seams are occasionally used to substitute for piping on the side seams of trousers.  With unlined jackets or coats made with cloth that has strong edges they serve to hold the edges of the cloth, laid to one side.

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To make the simple fell seam, one part, for example the side seam of a trouser undersides, is cut with a bit of inlay. The top side edge is then put on top, width of the inlay back, basted and the seam sewn.  One can then lightly press, baste over and stitch the piping width, about 3 mm or a bit wider.  That is the so-called "Narrow Fell Seam".  We show the execution of this kind in Abbildung 86.

Abb. 86.
The Simple Fell Seam.
(Right side.)

With "Wide" fell seams the allowance of the side seam of the undersides, in keeping with our example, is kept wider according to the width of the sewing.  The side seam of the topsides are then put on top, the width of the inlay back, and then finished off as described above.  The second seam should be done in a way, the sewing line is a sewing allowance width within the edge of the inlay.

With the wide fell seam clean, tight basting is necessary, otherwise the parts can easily move when sewing with the sewing machine, which will cause unsightly puckering.

Abb. 87.
The Folded Fell Seam.
(Wrong Side)

The Folded fell seam is used with light and fraying cotton or rayon (work clothes and similar). It is cut with an allowance on the edge that is "folded".  This means that the seam is folded inwards and then either "close sewn" with the machine or slip stitched by hand.

("close sewn" means that the sewing is guided very closely along the folded edge.)

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The right side of a hand felled seam looks like a simple seam, because there is no second sewing line.  However, a slight rise is formed at the seam, which is created by the over lapping edges of the seam.

The Negative or Hidden Seams.

In contrast to the positive (visible) seams, the seam line of the negative seams should be invisible or at least nearly invisible.  As a matter of fact, the sharp seam lines formed with regular seams themselves should be made invisible, as far as possible.

This is done, depending on the cloth, by Abutting [Stoßen], Darning [Stopfen] or Re-entering [Rentrieren (Randerieren)].

The Butt Seam (Die Stossnaht), Abbildungen 88 und 89,

Abb. 88.
The Butt Seam.

can only be used with tightly woven, i.e. "Cloth-like" stuff.  One cuts the edges that are to be joined, very straight, then both edges must match each other perfectly.  It is recommended that these edges are prepared by cutting with a sharp shoemaker's knife and a ruler.  The use of very fine silk and corresponding needle is essential.  In the past, even, long ladies or girls hair was used. 
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The seam edges are laid against one another, and simple overcast stitches are made from the wrong side of the cloth.  The stitches are laid closely together.  The needle lies almost horizontal when sewing.  Both cloth edges are tightly bound, yet the needle must never pierce through to the right side, but only just touch the outer surface of the cloth.  It is also important to be aware, that neither of the edges of the cloth move during the sewing, this mistake is easily done by holding one side tight and the other side loose.  This is avoided if, when one first cuts the seam edge, some marking lines are made with very sharp chalk on the laid flat fabric.  These marking lines must then meet again exactly when sewn.  Abb 89 shows the needle path when stitching the Butt seam.

Abb. 89
Shows the needle path of the Butt seam.

The Darned Seam (Die Stopfnaht), Abbildung 90,

Abb. 90.
Darned Seam.

With fabric that has very little fraying on the edges, like worsted cheviots, one can use this technique.  The edges, trimmed in the manner described above, are put together, and basted to a strong strip of paper about ¾ cm from both edges.  Now the seam is literally "darned", that is, the needle is inserted and removed repeatedly about 3 – 4 mm from the edge of the fabric. However, only the surface of the fabric, or rather, only the small fibres of the right side of the fabric may be caught (up with the thread).  The thread itself, very fine silk, must not be noticeable.  After this the seam is worked in overcast stitch from the wrong side.  To prevent tearing out, a thin strip of lining is slip stitched to the area.  (This is also known as a 'Wibel' seam).
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The Re-entering Seam (Die Rentrieren Naht), Abbildungen 91 and 92.

Abb. 91.
Here a piece must be inserted invisibly.

In French "Rentrer" means "to draw in again", this is probably the origin of the expression, "re-entering" [rentrieren].  With this seam, one will insert a piece or make a regular seam, in an unusual position, invisible.  Firstly, it is noted, that this work is only be executed properly with cloth that has a woolly, rough surface, for example, Cheviot [rough kind of serge].  Cloth with a smooth outer surface (one may say "Right side"), like worsted, are not suitable.

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After inserting the piece, or after sewing the seam, the edges of the seam are rubbed with the thumb and forefinger.  This seam must not be pressed beforehand.  To re-enter, very fine silk thread and a fine needle are used, because the individual stitches must be invisible.  To begin, the needle is inserted directly next to the seam from bottom up.  Now grasp the thick fibres lying directly on the other side of the seam with the needle.  The thread is only moderately tightened. It is inserted "Once right, Once left".  The position of the cloth, the guiding of the needle and the posture of the hands is shown in Abb 92.  After the Re-entering, the seam is once more rubbed, then the cloth fibres are scraped upwards with the needle, so that the seam line is completely covered.  The seam allowances are secured with lightly drawn stitches.  After this the seam is pressed on a cloth pad.

Abb. 92.
Posture of the hands when performing the Re-entering seam.

The Slot Seam (Die Kellernaht), Abbildung 93 bis 95.

The seam takes its name from a Master Tailor, Keller, who was apparently the first to make it.  It is a distinctive, decorative seam and is often used in women's tailoring in connection with outward springing box pleats.

The Keller seam is easily made.  If it is just to be made as a Keller seam, then the seam edges must be cut with a width allowance corresponding to the amount of folding of the seam edge.  The allowance must be kept one seam wider than one wishes to make the Keller seam.  There is no particular correct width.  There are Keller seams from ½ to 4 cm wide.  A strip of base fabric is laid under the two folded fabric edges, laid next to each other.  Occasionally, also, cloth of a contrasting colour that coordinates with the base fabric may be used.  Then the underlying fabric strip is sewn to the desired width.  The outer edges of the wrong side are cleaned up with overcast stitching.

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Often box pleats are worked as Keller seams in the upper parts e.g. women's skirts, the centre back to Folk Jackets etc.  In contrast to simple pleats, where the pleat only lies to one side, box pleats are half the pleat depth on each side.  After the basting and pressing flat, the box pleat is simply sewn to the desired width, see Abb 93.  One notes that four pleat parts are required for a box pleat, Abb 94.

Abb. 93.
Simple Keller Seam.

Abb. 94.
Four pleats are necessary for a Keller Seam.

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Whether the entire depth is cut "as one" ["grown on"] or three pleats remain on one side and one pleat depth on the other ["sewn on"], depends on the nature of the parts and the amount of fabric that is to hand.  This is for the Master to determine.  Under no circumstances may the two folds be cut on each side.  By doing so the seam comes to lie [becomes visible] in the middle, and this looks very bad indeed.

Abbildung 95 shows a Keller seam that runs down into a box pleat.

Abb. 95.
Keller seam that runs down to a box pleat.

The English Seam (Die englische Naht).

This name is occasionally used to describe the Folded Fell Seam, described in Abbildung 87.


The French Seam (Die französische Naht), Abbildung 96.

This is mainly used with unlined work clothes made from cotton or rayon.

Cut a half-centimetre extra on the cloth edges intended to be sewn together [additional to the normal seam allowance], both seams should be cut equally wide.  Then the parts are laid wrong side to wrong side (Right side is therefore outside) and now the seam is sewn just under ½ cm wide.

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Then the seam is spread out with the thumb.  One can also lightly press.  Then lay right side to right side, rub the seam between thumb and forefinger, so the seam lies directly at the edges.

Abb. 96.
The French seam.

Any fraying "Lint" is carefully removed after cutting and now the seam is sewn at the regular width.  After sewing, there must be no frayed fibres showing on the finished right side
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[Schneiderfrei]

The seam terms I have not found are the following:

The names I have put forward are mostly transliteration of guess.

Die Scherernaht - ? Scissor seam or Flat seam?

Die Stricknaht - Knitware seam or Knitted seam??

Die Stoßnaht - Butt seam?

Die Stopfnaht - Darned seam

Die Rentriernaht - Re-entered seam??

Die Kellernaht - Slot seam?

G

[Hendrick]

Hi!

The "Stossnaht", I believe, is called "stotted seam". The stitch technique is "stoating or stotting" I think.

"Stopfnaht", I think, was simply called "covered seam".

"Stricknaht" the stitching in Dutch is called "vlechtsteek", I believe the stitching in English is called "tent stitch"...

Strangely, I think that what you call "scissor seam" is called "butted seam" in english...

Anyone?

[Schneiderfrei]

I know you are correct abut the Butted/scissor seam Hendrick, I didn't realise I had let that one through.

Thank you very much for the other suggestions I will try and search them out.

G