Trousers draft suggestions for beginner?

[Lindylou500]

Hello! I'm very experienced in sewing techniques but still have a lot to learn about fitting and pattern making. I'm now learning to draft trousers for one of my sons and have tried two different drafts so far. I'm now following one from Gareth Kershaw's book, though I can't resist adding in bits from other drafts, like Aldrich and Donn McCunn This is probably not the best thing to do!

I'm enjoying the process of drafting a lot and am on a very steep learning curve. I love these forums and reading about tailors, old and more recent!

Can anyone suggest a good draft for me to try? My son is 25, modern and  likes things like the latest, "balloon" trousers, as well as classic pleat fronted trousers. I'm amazed how many different drafts there are, and as a beginner I can't always see the difference or visualise the finished result. I read about the German tailor system and people like Mansie Wauch and would like to try them but can't find my way through the myriad of information to find a basic draft. Probably just me- I'm very low tech!

How do you go about picking a draft that is appropriate for the type and style of trousers you want? Grateful for any advice,
Regards,
Linda

[Schneiderfrei]

This is probably a reasonable place to start:

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=582.0

[Thom Bennett]

The thing with drafts they basically do the same job put the fitting points in the correct place, the styling takes place after that and is what a lot of tailors call "rock o' eye". If you want a pleated ballon trouser I would use my basic drafting system (I use Rory Duffy's Imperial System for my Trousers) and adjust it for pleats followed by styling. If you look at the way Kershaw works he first develops his block (he calls a frame) which gives you the basic fitting points. the following two pages he discusses how, from this "frame" to develop the front and backsides of a pleated trouser.

The pattern is produced by developing the fronts and cut out, then use that as a template to develop the backsides. If you wanted to turn this cut into a ballon leg just narrow the hem to something like 14.5 - 15' then shape the side seam run to create a ballon shape. Of course this pattern draft is for a straight leg if you want to open or close it you will need to change the the construction line, but because of the draft it is difficult to see it. Kershaw is really a fashion pattern maker and how to make patterns that fit the "fit model".

I've just looked at both my copies of Aldrich and Kershaw and I think you would be better suited to Aldrich, I think she explains things better. She develops her block in similar ways but she has an eye to the individual body and has a great section on open and close legs along with other stances on p.163-167, which I advise you to study. If you are really new to drafting I strongly recommend that you draft a few practice patterns using the proportionate measures given on the draft so you can learn the system, once you have the hang of it you can then experiment with the various different postures. The thing to remember is no matter which system you use it will only take you so far. You really never know how they are going to look until worn. The adjustments discussed on p.163-167 of Aldrich can be used to alter Kershaw after you have developed the trouser block, if you choose to go down his system.

[Lindylou500]

Thank you, Schneiderfrei- I've just saved that to Dropbox and I'm going to print a copy. I appreciate your time in responding to me.

[Lindylou500]

Tom, thank you very much for taking the time to write out all that - I appreciate it. Lots of good info to absorb. I'm a bit shamefaced as the Aldrich book I have is the womenswear... I am immediately, now, tonight, instantly, going to order her menswear book.
You mentioned 'your' basic drafting system and Rory Duffy- I don't know if you mean you have developed your own system, or you use Rory Duffys? I'm going to look him up now and see if I can find it. Is it in a book I can purchase?

Thanks again, I'm just about to draft and cut out a waistband for the trousers I'm working on. Wish me luck!

Kind regards,
Linda

[Thom Bennett]

If you like the way Aldrich writes then why not it is a good book. There are of course drafts on this site which are free and all the extra information she talks about can be found here by other writers, again all free. Have a look through the drafting section of the site for further study. Personally, I like English drafts as they are quite easy to follow also they allow for more 'rock of eye' when it comes to style lines. But then working through Aldrich wouldn't be a bad thing, it has everything you would need to know in it if you're really only making stuff for the family. Sorry I wrote that a bit wrong, I meant if I were drafting a baggy pleated trouser (Oxford bags) I would use the system I use then adapt it to the style. So meaning draft the frame as Kershaw calls it, the block in Aldrich then do the style adjustment, sorry didn't mean to suggest I had a draft to offer to you.

Rory Duffy: I spent some time with Rory over a year at his home in Ireland a few years ago, he ran me through his trousers draft which I now use as he taught me, no need to play with it; only available if one takes his online drafting course. I returned to tailoring after a long hiatus DJing and following an accident I sought him out to help me get back up to speed. He's a solid bloke, brilliant teacher and great friend.

Good luck on the waistband. And don't worry about the time I am currently self-isolating due to a health issue.

[Greger]

A little extra. If you add extra width along the sideseam it gives you room for adjusting it when fitting for the desired "look" (not to mention, perhaps fit).

[Lindylou500]

Tom- the Aldrich book arrived and it looks good. Lots of drafts in there I can see I would use and also learn from. I contacted Rory and he kindly responded; he has a book planned but it is in early stages yet, apparently. Thanks for the tips. Regards, Linda

[Lindylou500]

Thank you for the advice, Greger. I will do that, sounds a helpful idea. Kind regards, Linda

[Lindylou500]

I am keeping to my home here in Wales at the moment, as per Government lockdown, and as I get asthma. My son lives in Bristol so impossible to try final drafts or even the trousers on him for tweaks etc. I'm going to post them to him and just hope they fit for now. I'll let you know how it goes! Advantage of self-isolation= lots of sewing and learning time. Disadvantage= can't try garments on the people I am making clothes for. Hey ho. We must do this so I'm resigned to maybe making clothes that don't fit anyone! At least I'm learning and have time to research and learn from that, too.

[Thom Bennett]

Oh okay your son lives in Bristol, we're not having the best of weather at the moment. Take this time to practice your sewing skills and learning the drafting system which you don't need to try anything on anyone. Just draft different "proportional" patterns, you can find a table of proportions in the books and on here. Once you've leaned the system and all its alterations then you can make a pair of trousers ready for fitting once we're all allowed out again. We're going to be locked in for at least 3 months so that should give you plenty of time to learn Aldrich (if you're still getting that). It is best to learn a system before trying to make garments from it. All the best and stay safe.

[Lindylou500]

Thanks, Tom. That's a good idea, actually. I definitely need practice on drafts. I've got the Aldrich menswear book now so will do some things from that. Cheers!