Fitting issues

[Petruchio]

In light of a recent topic in this forum on the absence of literature on shirt fitting and pattern alteration I was wondering if it is useful to make a thread where we discuss pattern manipulation on a more theoretical level.

This is of course a rather selfish proposal since I'm an absolute novice on these matters and would love to have informations on how to go about when fitting people. So far I tried to fit five friends of mine and with the help of this forum and the old CaT Forum I am under the impression that I really progressed. But still, I lack a basic understandig of pattern manipulation. I, of course, know that all bodies are different and any general discussion on the topic might have serious limitations but I think it would be helpful to a lot of people to have some kind of general guidelines on how to alter a pattern.

Case in point: I have two people with forward rolling shoulders and swayback posture. Both of them have major balance issues and the front is way too short (up to 6cm). Now - one of the major issues was, that the neckhole of the modern rundschau draft was way off. So the question is: How to you fix rounded shoulders and do forward rounded shoulders affect the neckhole and how do you fix that.

I hope this isn't a stupid idea, but I really would love to learn this stuff on a more general level.

[posaune]

No, the idea is very good. But................................
It is so that the statement "forward shoulder and sway back and neckhole does not fit" - is clearly not enough to prescribe an alteration for it.
Doing something like this requieres - for me - pics. Front - back - side. On it whole body with a comparison plumb line....... yaddah yaddah.
Even then it is complicated. And you can not discuss it theoretical  -I think too - it is very seldom that the human body has only one flaw. They play so nice together - par ex. sway back and forward shoulder.
To catalog this is another heap of work. But it would be worth it! The traffic on this side would grow!
lg
posaune

[Petruchio]

I see what you mean and you are - of course - quit right. I remember there was an old member of the CaT Forum from the netherlands, who documented and described a fitting with a client on his website. Unfortunately I couldn't find the website or anything else, but something like this would of course be extremely helpful.

What I had in mind, though, was more the general techniques you would apply on certain changes. For example describing how you would adjust for a dropping shoulder. When I started I had no idea that you should make the changes on the natural shoulder line, how you would slash the pattern and how this affects the neckhole etc pp . Something in the line of what schneiderfrei did on balance or the rundschau article on a Problemfigur, who was available on the old forum.
I know that this would be plenty of work and I just lack the knowledge to contribute anything significant, but I think it would be a great addition to the forum and a real help to anybody starting out.

[Schneiderfrei]

I had an idea a while ago to show photos of folds in fabric and then suggestions on what the fabric requires to be set at rest.

This was my reaction to one of the professional guys on the Cutter and Tailor who encouraged us to listen to "What the fabric was telling us".

I think his name was Martin Stall.

For example:

Considering long folds across a piece of fabric, either add more fabric at the ends of the fold or remove fabric from the sides of the fold.

From there things get more complicated.

G

[TTailor]

It is such a large topic!
As Posaune says, many people have multiple fitting issues.

That being said, it is a good idea.

What I try to do it think about putting fabric where the body needs it.
In order to help with this, I think photos are extremely helpful, as well as good measurements.

I gave a talk recently about patternmaking to a home sewing group, and I talked about what measurements I think are crucial. I was surprised that so few people had good measurements and most did not know how to apply them to check a pattern.

[posaune]

By the way I have a copy of the fitting from R. Bakker. I do not know if I can  put them in here or if I am hurting the copyright.
this is the title
"Analyzing a fitting and why we fit garments in the first place" Posted on March 19th, 2011  by  Ruben Bakker   

I saved it as an good example. His model has some issues and he works and explains them step by step
lg
posaune
(To Martin Stall: my fabric did not speak with me today in my language, I ripped the sleeve 3 times still nothing. Maybe it's because it is italian?!)

[Schneiderfrei]

I remember Ruben Bakker. I found out he had a workshop in the old Van Nelle (cigarttte) building.

Actually, if that is from the old forum, I don't think it will be a problem posaune. Especially if you give him good accreditation.

A for speaking with cloth, he he, Have you tried whispering??

G

[pfaff260]

I remember Ruben Bakker. I found out he had a workshop in the old Van Nelle (cigarttte) building.

Actually, if that is from the old forum, I don't think it will be a problem posaune. Especially if you give him good accreditation.

A for speaking with cloth, he he, Have you tried whispering??

G

Ruben Bakker seems to have disappeared after a lot of complaning on style fora about fitting issues.