Open and closed ???

[Lindylou500]

Can someone please explain to me what, 'open' and 'closed' refer to in terms of drafting men's trousers? Thank you.

[Thom Bennett]

Hi Lindylou, it refers to the stance/gate. Some people have wider or narrower gates normally coupled with bow or knocked knees or turning out feet. If the client naturally stands/walks with with feet apart and turned outwards that would normally be considered as "open" with the inverse being "closed". You can tell if they are open or closed by noting the crease line of a straight cut trouser it will run down either side of the foot depending on the gate of the individual. A closed leg trouser for an open legged person they will have difficulty in walking. You find that most Denim jeans are cut open to make them more comfortable as there is much less restriction in the fork. Hope that helps.

[Lindylou500]

Thank you, Tom! That helps a lot. One of my sons has, "Inwardly Rotating Knees" as I've seen it called. I've made him a few trousers- pleat fronted, and after one or two pairs I actually sussed out why he was always uncomfortable in RTW trousers. Now I know what to look out for- thanks again!