looking for a draft of a slim coat (man)

[pfaff260]

[Schneiderfrei]

I can see what you have done there.  Now I have to cough up my promise. He he.

G

[pfaff260]

Not for me, but you will make a lot of people very happy. Lot of worh though!

[Schneiderfrei]

Pfaff260,

Could you please include the page/Seite 78 Naeher an der Koerper? It sees to have been missed.

G

[mysewingpleasure]

Schneiderfrei, I really enjoy "surfing" around in cutterandtailor.com, I love to read everyone's replies, so that I can learn how to distinguish the true essence of apprenticeship and craftsmanship of how a traditional tailor works.

Most of all, I am eager to learn how to draft a man's suit, for young men, slim and tall, modern style but with extreme fine and elegant finish. That is my goal. Thank you for including me in the conversation.

However, I really do not know where to start and which one to choose from, there are so many formulas and drafts! I have no experience in reading the terminology of the vocabularies. I swallow them but I cannot digest, make me feel lost.

[Schneiderfrei]

You are welcome mysewingpleasure, I wish my two boys would have me sew for them.

This draft could be a good place to begin.

My personal preference is with German drafting. While English and Italian tailoring have high respect, the English apprenticeship/educational system seems to have collapsed in the 1970's and the Italian system was hardly ever formally written down.  We have had very little input from French tailors in either the old Cutter and tailor forum or this one and Russian even less.

So the German tailoring industry is still a viable professional entity, the Rundschau magazine is still sold, although clearly less inspiring than the state it was in during the 50s and 60s.  That leaves the difficulty of access to non-German speakers.  So, on this forum especially, you will find many translations of older German literature, mostly by me.  I find it fun and relaxing, it helps me avoid my the things I am really supposed to be doing.

We don't post brand new literature, with respect to the copyright of Rundschau.  We would encourage anyone to purchase Rundschau books. But,  the ones that do get posted are here because they offer unique insight into tailoring methods and problems and they come from that golden era of tailoring education.

This draft for a slim jacket, will not produce a fashionable modern Jacket but it will show you how such a jacket was made 50 years ago.  It will get you close to a modern jacket and you could modify the draft by providing your own fashion details.

[pfaff260]

You are welcome mysewingpleasure, I wish my two boys would have me sew for them.

This draft could be a good place to begin.

My personal preference is with German drafting. While English and Italian tailoring have high respect, the English apprenticeship/educational system seems to have collapsed in the 1970's and the Italian system was hardly ever formally written down.  We have had very little input from French tailors in either the old Cutter and tailor forum or this one and Russian even less.

So the German tailoring industry is still a viable professional entity, the Rundschau magazine is still sold, although clearly less inspiring than the state it was in during the 50s and 60s.  That leaves the difficulty of access to non-German speakers.  So, on this forum especially, you will find many translations of older German literature, mostly by me.  I find it fun and relaxing, it helps me avoid my the things I am really supposed to be doing.

We don't post brand new literature, with respect to the copyright of Rundschau.  We would encourage anyone to purchase Rundschau books. But,  the ones that do get posted are here because they offer unique insight into tailoring methods and problems and they come from that golden era of tailoring education.

This draft for a slim jacket, will not produce a fashionable modern Jacket but it will show you how such a jacket was made 50 years ago.  It will get you close to a modern jacket and you could modify the draft by providing your own fashion details.

I totally agree. This would be a good start. Turning it into a fashionable jacket is something you have to do yourself.
This is a nice new book by Sven Jungclaus.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Die-Herrenschneiderei-Grundschnitte-selbst-erstellen/dp/3738614656

[Schneiderfrei]

Pfaff260,

Could you please include the page/Seite 78 Naeher an der Koerper? It seems to have been missed.

G

[jeffrey]

I totally agree. This would be a good start. Turning it into a fashionable jacket is something you have to do yourself.
This is a nice new book by Sven Jungclaus.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Die-Herrenschneiderei-Grundschnitte-selbst-erstellen/dp/3738614656
[/quote]

I agree with pfaff260. This is a very good book. The drafts are easy to follow and a good book to start with,

[mysewingpleasure]

I totally agree. This would be a good start. Turning it into a fashionable jacket is something you have to do yourself.
This is a nice new book by Sven Jungclaus.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Die-Herrenschneiderei-Grundschnitte-selbst-erstellen/dp/3738614656

I agree with pfaff260. This is a very good book. The drafts are easy to follow and a good book to start with,
[/quote]

I have just clicked your link to Amazon.co.uk. The book is temporary unavailable, I click the Kindle version, and the used one, somehow it told me that " is for UK customers only. To shop for titles available for your country/region, please visit Amazon.com."

I went to Amazon.com. there is no result of the search!

[Schneiderfrei]

Mysewingpleasure, www.abebooks.com has copies, in general it's a more preferrable site than Amazon, especially for older books.

[jeffrey]

Try this link. It is the publisher themselves.

https://www.die-gewand-sammlung.at/produkt/die-herrenschneiderei/

[mysewingpleasure]

Dear all, thank you for your recommendation for the book.

Sadly, it costs me $60, I do not have that spare money at the moment, at least not now. I would wait until Schneiderfrei translate this slim one.

I am looking for a pattern to start with, and adjust the measurement lately when I have a basic block. I have never drafted a men's three pieces suit style e.g. front panel, side panel and back panel, with the split pockets at the end of the dart. Well, I don't even know how to properly name them... I think you understand what I am trying to say!

And I would like to sew like a professional tailor would do, not the industrial/factory made. With good quality of  fabric, perfect fit on the body,especially for a young man, a garment shows exactly what is his taste. Dresses can build confidence on a person's face. 

It is not necessarily to pay thousand of dollars, but it needs to be elegant. It is only my opinion, and it is my goal.

[pfaff260]

Sorry, forgotten ( i think)page 78. new one

[Schneiderfrei]

Sorry Pfaff260, Is there a larger file? this is not as detailed as the ones at the top of this page.