Wir Aendern - 85

[Schneiderfrei]

I like this Wir Aendern article very much.

It's not an unusual problem.  In this case the Rundschau, published several contributors solutions, so there are several possibilities here.

There is even a contribution from Frankfurt am Main

I have posted the image for the article and given translations to each of the text blocks.  The illustration texts are indicated by the arrow as they are in the image.

Thanks are due from me to those who helped with the term 'Achsel'.

I like to cut and paste the images out of the original article image and reconstruct the article as a word document.  The editing seems to help remember the ideas.

The 85th. Quiz: We showed a waistcoat in front and side view, where the belly protrudes at the front.  Here again, the side view identifies the error.

Abbildung 2: ► this shot of the figure without a waistcoat clearly identifies the fitting error:  With markedly pronounced stomach and belly, insufficient belly rounding was incorporated into the waistcoat, therefore it pokes out in an ugly way.

Perhaps the two photos we show for the 85th alteration quiz do not show the error completely distinctly; however the side shot clearly shows what we are concerned about: down the bottom, the waistcoat stands out from the body, it "Clashes".

This fitting error can be caused by various means, whether be it that the front part is placed too straight in regard to the shoulder and demands a twist to the body or, as in this case, that the necessary rounding of the body was not taken into account.


Abbildung 3: ► these temporary tacked darts indicate by how much the waistcoat is too wide at the bottom.  Since the waist dart is already installed, a belly dart [Bauchsisson] cannot employed.

Abbildung 4: ► Also, the overlapping of the front edges gives just a clue as to the excessive width.

Abbildung 2 shows the body that is to be dressed; this case is not an exceptionally corpulent figure, even the measurement proportions do not indicate this.  But the photo shows that a pronounced high-lying stomach is present, for which sufficient length must also be established in the waistcoat.

With Abbildung 3 we have temporarily tacked the excess width at the bottom as a dart.  This simple change is not possible, as there is a waist dart already lying on the centre of the pocket.


Abbildung 5: ► The correct cut for such a figure: the vertical belly-dart leaves enough width above and achieves the shortness below.

Abbildung 6: ► to avoid the dart seam [in such an obvious place] the paper model was cut along the pocket, pinched out below and provided with seam allowances behind.

Abbildung 4 shows a further experiment, namely, to subtract the excess width at the front edge; this also proved impossible due to the presence of, already incorporated, button-holes.

Abbildung 5 shows the cutting blueprint that is necessary in such a case.  A belly dart is laid perpendicularly from the bottom edge to the front pocket point, which effectively give the necessary length and width and below, the necessary ,Schluss'.

Abbildung 6: If this vertical seam is to be avoided, then one can also insert an almost invisible dart in a horizontal direction at the pocket seam; for this purpose the model is cut along the pocket and then removed from below by the amount of the dart.  Therefore, the seam allowances must be considered, from the back of the pocket closure til the side seam.

Abbildung 7 shows an attempted alteration, which appears simple and yet expedient, even though, admittedly, it doesn't portray the best possible alteration.  The excess width was simply gradually removed from the side seam down to the bottom, provided no further fitting trouble was caused.

Abbildung 7: ► for this simple execution of the alteration, the excess width was doubled and tacked to the side seam, the bottom edge should be as short as possible.

Abbildung 8: ► A model of the same alteration; the excess amount must be removed from the side seam, the lower edge must be as short as possible, so that a favourable 'Schluss' can be achieved.

Whenever the waistcoat is worn in its many different imaginable forms, it is necessary to consider the correct draft basis for each respective body shape. 

Solutions

der 85. Alterations undertaken

Friedhold Stünn, Langen h. Frankfurt/Main — Armin Stammberger, Gerbrunn — Lucie Menkhaus, Osnabrück — Ludwig Erb, Frielingsdorf — Willi. Oppermann, Hannover — Heinz Moß, Gersten — Kuno Studer, Egerkingen — Johanna Mayer, Atzbach — Hugo Hermann, Hechingen — Wolfgang Hoffmann, Mainaschaff — Karl Arand, Stuttgart — Rudi Holtmann, Markhausen — Karl Kett, München-Pasing — Ludwig Vierthaler, Baunach — Franz Schaff, Beillheim — Armin Glanzung , Wetzikon.


As the 86. Quiz: (Right)
a) where does the error lie?
b) How is the error eliminated?

Solutions to the 86th Alterations Quiz to be submitted by 15 May 1957.

Sender's names will be published.

[Schneiderfrei]

Hi Vickiexr,

These Wir Aendern articles were presented in the German professional tailoring magazine from Mueller - Munich, It is known as Rundschau.

They are quite difficult to come by now, but they were mainly published through the 50's and 60's.  They represent the Heyday of German sartorial excellence.  You can buy a modest collection still, from Meuller, called Passformfehler.

I have these original pages as part of a collection belonging to a retired tailor in Adelaide South Australia. The highest point of Mr Weimann's career, I think, was to make a white woolen suit worn by the premier of our state when he met the Queen, in the 1980's.

G

[posaune]

It would be nice if a collection of all this pages would go in print again. This is so valuable. It was done as a contest. Every reader could write how he would alter that. It was schooling of the eyes and you learned too much about how others do it. Because there are many ways to Rome.
This is alteration n. 85!!! Imagine.
Maybe I write them and ask about it.
Schneiderfrei:  Frankfurt was in this times a Mecca for Tailors. Willi Leibold (writer of the bible for tailoring business) was here at home
lg
posaune

[TTailor]

It would be nice if a collection of all this pages would go in print again. This is so valuable. It was done as a contest. Every reader could write how he would alter that. It was schooling of the eyes and you learned too much about how others do it. Because there are many ways to Rome.
This is alteration n. 85!!! Imagine.

It would be great!
It is like reading your posts recently about the shirt fitting, i enjoy them very much!

[peterle]

Indeed there was a book called "Wir Aendern". I think it was composed of these articles from the magazine like the Rundschauverlag always did.
It appears very seldomly in ebay or at the antiquarian market.
Posaune, probably you can find it in the Bavarian state library? They have several Mueller books there.

[posaune]

I own this book, what you are thinking of me, Peterle. But it is not so good as in this articles. And not so plenty.  It exist a modern one too.
https://www.muellersohn.com/passformfehler-11462
They have done drawings - not the photos - and only what THEY think, what modern peoples interest.
I have some old issues of Herrenrundschau, there is the better stuff. You know, that the person, who was written there, had the knowledge and did not rehash.
lg
posaune

[Schneiderfrei]

I have a lot of these articles.  They were pages saved from the Rundschau magazines by the Weimann family. I have about 50. It would be very tricky to put them all up here.

[posaune]

Schneiderfrei:
after my holidays I'll look what I have.  I'll make a list with # and problems.
maybe we can exchange (is the rightexpression swop?) them like the children with the Paninini - pics from the soccer stars.
Naturally others can join us.
lg
posaune

[Schneiderfrei]

That will be great.  I will work at that.

[Hendrick]

Hi,

What this does mostly, for me, is underlining the fitting problems in modern rtw for men. Apart from the complexity! I feel as if I am getting used to fitting defects in men's garments. Especially with the arrival of spectaculary slim fitting suits, backsplits breaking and pulling, pulling closures etcetera seem normal or " inherent to the style" of clothing nowadays....

Cheers, Hendrick