Rundschau Cutting System Clarification Please

[Henry Hall]

I'm tired of repeating it now. The zipper stops do not make any contact with the feed dogs or the foot! The Cabrera text has a drawing which shows exactly where to start stitching: not on, but close to the teeth, which means near the zip. As close as good without running the foot over the zip.

Rhinehart's text specifically says a 'scant 1/4" seam along the matched edges of the topside/zip tape/fly piece. I've just looked at the page with my own eyes!

Obviously if the zip part being sewn is easier to sew with the zip in the other side of the foot to keep it out of the dogs, that's what you do. It's just common sense.

[Adriel]

I'm tired of repeating it now. The zipper stops do not make any contact with the feed dogs or the foot! The Cabrera text has a drawing which shows exactly where to start stitching: not on, but close to the teeth, which means near the zip. As close as good without running the foot over the zip.

Rhinehart's text specifically says a 'scant 1/4" seam along the matched edges of the topside/zip tape/fly piece. I've just looked at the page with my own eyes!

Obviously if the zip part being sewn is easier to sew with the zip in the other side of the foot to keep it out of the dogs, that's what you do. It's just common sense.

How about me repeating the question because getting caught in detail rather than concept? Or having to say I am not asking about bloody SAs?

So the SA not only applies to along the zipper, though also to the distance from the stops? Meaning, start stitching a quarter inch down from the stop?

As to common sense, it's common sense the stop has enough thickness that is not absorbed by the fabric no matter which side turned, at least on the Singer I am using. Further, I would have thought of an SA as being only distance from the teeth, not also the starting and stopping points. Remember, I am mentally retarded, so I am not common.

[theresa in tucson]

Adriel, I think you may be over complicating things.  Stitch through the zipper tape from a little above the top stop to a little below the bottom stop.  Your bottom stop should be positioned so it sits a little above the point where the center front crotch seam stitches end.  You don't want to hit the stop with your needle when you are putting in topstitching.  To avoid having to stitch around the zipper pull I usually use a zipper longer than what is required and remove the excess length and teeth when I attach the waistband.  In that case I start my stitching at the front waist seam line and end a little past the bottom stop.

[Henry Hall]

As to common sense, it's common sense the stop has enough thickness that is not absorbed by the fabric no matter which side turned, at least on the Singer I am using. Further, I would have thought of an SA as being only distance from the teeth, not also the starting and stopping points. Remember, I am mentally retarded, so I am not common.

Well, you seem to have the common sense to correct my wrong answers. I wish you would just follow the very simple instructions and save yourself much frustration and misery.

[Adriel]

As to common sense, it's common sense the stop has enough thickness that is not absorbed by the fabric no matter which side turned, at least on the Singer I am using. Further, I would have thought of an SA as being only distance from the teeth, not also the starting and stopping points. Remember, I am mentally retarded, so I am not common.

Well, you seem to have the common sense to correct my wrong answers. I wish you would just follow the very simple instructions and save yourself much frustration and misery.

I will give you half of touché. 

The simple instructions are not simple for this simple person. Especially when told to get the stitches right next to the zipper and then someone else says to be a quarter inch away. If right next to, the stops do get in the way. If a quarter inch SA, can sew right past them. Das ist alles.

Must be nice being neurotypical and able to be part of society and usefully productive to the society.

[Henry Hall]

I'm not neurotypical, but I like simplicity. Let's stick to the tailoring though.

You'll have to be prepared for several sources with minor differences leading to the same ends. Remember what the end is and then just choose the method which seems most appropriate to your needs. Since it isn't hands-on with a teacher, some of it will be a bit of trial-and-error and working things out by trying.

[Adriel]

I'm not neurotypical, but I like simplicity.

Yes I forgot already...sorry. And I like to know, sometimes just to know.

Take for instance apparently can jump the stop by lifting up the pressure foot a little while hand turning the flywheel. Because of this desire to know, know now not only for zippers, though could see this getting onto a thick shoulder pad.

[Greger]

Adriel, all the way through making clothes there are guides that are used. Notches are very important. Without them, "landmarks", tailors would be lost. The notches are cut on paper and on the cloth they are tinny nicks or hand sewn tailor tacs (thread). Close to the bottom of  where the zipper goes on the paper pattern should be a notch, which should have been transferred to the cloth with a tac right after cutting. You should have tacs at the knees, too, front and back, both sides, and wherever the directions said to put them. Therefore, along the front forks of the pants there should be one on each front panel. You should also have two fly pieces (main cloth) that are also notched. One of these fly pieces a piece of pocketing is sewn to it. Follow the directions for this. At the bottom of the zipper teeth is a metal clip, which is placed so far above the notch of the pants. Depending on which directions you are using, other directions may have a different height. With hand needle and thread based the zipper to pants. Next, place the fly piece (with pocketing, and pocketing pushed out of the way) with notches together and bace. Now you can sew from notch to top depending on the directions. Waistbands are put in different ways, so it depends on the directions. That's for one side. Later, the other side is done.