Slim Jacket (60's) Associated Sleeve pattern

[Schneiderfrei]

Here is the Jacket Sleeve from the 60's Jacket Bodice draft refered to below.

Presented as usual for Private Study Only.

The Jacket-Sleeve

The Main Measurements

Kg  Total height                     176 cm
Ow Chest circumference         100cm
Tw  Waist circumference         92cm
Gw  Seat circumference      106cm

The Proportional Measurements

(,,Müller"– Ready-Reckoner)

Hs   Neck mirror           8 cm
Rh   Back Height      23.5 cm
Tl   Waist Length      44.5 cm
Lg  Jacket Length           77 cm
Rb   Back Width      20.5 cm
At   Armhole depth      25.5 cm
Ad   Armhole Width      16.5 cm
B   Chest Width      23.5cm
U   Belly Width      24.5 cm

The sleeve is often the 'Problem Child' of men's tailoring, yet it is not difficult. With care and thought a reliably fitting sleeve pattern can be created.  We recommend constructing the sleeve for each particular armhole, because the given shoulder height, thus the armhole depth and the armhole circumference are taken into account. For the draft you need: 

1. The shoulder height measured at the back and the front of the bodice draft.
2. The armhole circumference, measured exactly from the draft.
3. The sleeve length, which is determined from the centre of the cap forward.


This draft assumes the Back and Front patterns in Abb. 189/190. [Page 36 – 37]

At the Back, measure out the perpendicular distance from a2 to the Rb line. At the Front Part, determine the diagonal distance from A2 to At; both measurements together form the shoulder height.

The armhole circumference is measured out along the armhole lines (Not along the seam lines) of the back and the front part, not including all the seams (shoulder, back, side and front part).

The Cap Height from A to D:
Front + back shoulder height   = 41 cm
Half            = 20.5 cm
1/10 of ½ shoulder height         = % (minus) 2 cm
Cap height            = 18.5 cm

The Sleeve Width from F to B:
Armhole circumference   = 50 cm
Half   = 25 cm
Jacket ease   = + 1.5 cm
Sleeve width   = 26.5 cm

Abbildung 191:

A/B/L2 Base line
A-D     Cap height = 18.5 cm
A-L     = cap – sleeve length
L-L1    Front length = 1.5 cm
L-L2    Back length = 1,5 cm
D-E      Elbow height = ½ front height length (D-L1) % 1.5 cm
D/E/L2 Square out horizontally
D-F     = ¼ armhole diameter
F-B      Sleeve width in diagonal direction = 26,5 cm
B-        Square vertically
B-C   = ¼ armhole diameter

Abbildung 192:

K-   = Half of A-B
a-   = Half of A-K
a-a1   = Push back ½ cm

If you want a fuller sleeve cap (for reasons of fashion), stay half way here at a and draw a guideline from here to F1.

K-a2     = ⅓ of K-B
K-     Square down to form M
F-F1     Extension = ½ cm
F1-a1    Draw a guideline (or F1-a!)
F1-a1   Halve this amount and from here place a3 2 cm lower.
C-a2     Draw a guideline
C-     Short horizontal
c-     = Half of B-C
M-m     = ¼ Cap height = 4.5 cm
m-c     Draw a guideline, form c1
L1-L3  = Finished hand width + ¾ cm seam allowance
E-e      Centre front = 1-1.5 cm
D/e/L1  Centre front line
e-e1 =   Hand width (L1-L3) + 5.5
e1-L3 Draw a guideline



76


Abbildung 193:

D/e/L1    Shift the front seam of the top sleeve evenly 2,5cm (to make the seam disappear)
c1-c2        Seam shifting = 2 cm
c2-        Square to the out side
C-c3        Seam shifting = 2 cm
c3-        Seam allowance = ¾ cm
c3-e1         Draw a guideline
c3/e1/L3  Elbow seam for top sleeve according to diagram
L1-L3      Hem line according to diagram
C3/K/K1 Sleeve cap according to diagram

Abbildung 194:

D/e/L1     Front seam for under sleeve = 1 cm back
D-M        Push up curve base = 1.5 cm higher, horizontal guideline
c2-F         Curve:  Form a smooth shape
c2-         Seam allowance ¾ cm, guideline to e1
e2-L3         Guideline down
c2/e2/L3 Elbow seam for under sleeve according to the diagram
d-        Mark the seam line ¾ cm back from the front seam line to form d
d-        Square a guideline forward and form d1
d1-        One seam width backwards
F1-d1     Curve for upper sleeve. Seams and inlays see page 12.

The Sleeve Without Ironwork - Abb. 195

For fabric, that takes stretching with the iron, the front seam of the upper sleeve is shifted by 2.5 cm, so that it comes to lie at the underside.  For hard, non-stretch fabric it is recommended that the front seam lies at the centre to avoid stretching. Through the natural rolling over of the sleeve forward in use, this seam is barely visible.
   
The basic draft is unchanged.
E-e Centre front = 1 cm
F1/e/L1 Draw the centre front line
F1/e/L1 Add  the seam allowances for the top sleeve and under sleeve evenly by ¾ cm; so that the top and under sleeve seams can be matched and sewn smoothly.

[mysewingpleasure]

Schneiderfrei, Thank you so much for the translation. The jacket will be my next exciting adventure to men's clothing. I am working on the pants (to go with this jacket) using Manise's system.