rundschau goes online

[posaune]

If you want to see 4 nice drafts for coats
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/allgemein/schnittk-technik-von-4-casual-jackets/
you can read it in english too.
lg
posaune

[TTailor]

Thanks Posaune!

[Henry Hall]

That's pretty excellent. Thanks.

[posaune]

Now I have the first issue from Rundschau - not longer called Rundschau. It is now Müller & Sohn.
The half of the journal is now for ladies and the other half or gents (printed upside down).  You get only 10 issues per year. The paper pattern which is enclosed is only for 2 Blouses - which is poor. But you will get one each issue (I think one month for ladies and one month for gents)
The technical part for ladies is dress, t-shirt and leggins for pregnant womans and baby wear (with basic pattern).
For Gents two modern coats, and 4 different shirt styles  One with a collar I will use for myself. Nice.
No basic drafts - the models are developed from basic pattern  from issue 1-2/ 19 and 3-4/ 19.
lg
posaune

[Petruchio]

I don't know if this is the right thread to ask such a question, but I'm contemplating to buy the Müller & Sohn Hemden Schnitttechnik book and would be interested if it is "worth" it since I already have the basic shirt draft. To be honest, I would like to have a comprehensive book on pattern alterations for shirtmaking, but I am not sure the Müller book includes any information on that topic. Does somebody have it and can give some insight? I browsed through the table of content already but still am not sure how detailed it is.

[pfaff260]

The book has the basic draft but also all kind of varitions. I find it very helpfull.
This book is also very good. https://www.amazon.com/Shirt-Hermann-Lauer/dp/3833484888

[Dunc]

I don't know if this is the right thread to ask such a question, but I'm contemplating to buy the Müller & Sohn Hemden Schnitttechnik book and would be interested if it is "worth" it since I already have the basic shirt draft. To be honest, I would like to have a comprehensive book on pattern alterations for shirtmaking, but I am not sure the Müller book includes any information on that topic. Does somebody have it and can give some insight? I browsed through the table of content already but still am not sure how detailed it is.

Depends on what you mean by "pattern alterations"... It doesn't have much, if anything, on fitting or figurations. It does have a corpulent shirt draft, a lot of different "fashion" variations ("modellschnitt") on the basic pattern, plus drafts for pyjamas and robes (both regular and corpulent), sportswear, and underwear.

[Petruchio]

Depends on what you mean by "pattern alterations"... It doesn't have much, if anything, on fitting or figurations. It does have a corpulent shirt draft, a lot of different "fashion" variations ("modellschnitt") on the basic pattern, plus drafts for pyjamas and robes (both regular and corpulent), sportswear, and underwear.

Well, I meant fittings etc. I do have the corpulent draft as well, so I guess there is no real reason to give it a go. But this begs the question if there is any source for this? In the new edition of Cabreras book on Tailoring for example is a short section on fittings and pattern alteration, so I was wondering if there is anything more comprehensive and for shirtmaking as well.

[Steelmillal]

I'm posting old C&T links I quickly found and one link to a fellow who does lots of shirts. As the archive is static, links won't necessarily work unless the crawler captured content while the forum was healthy. I have the Dorothy Moore book somewhere and will look for it when I'm back to the studio. David Coffin's book is also decent.

http://www.shirtmakingwithdpc.com/

https://web.archive.org/web/20150914182952/http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=3900

https://web.archive.org/web/20150916143326/http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=3655

http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/2018/08/drafting-mens-shirt-pattern-from-scratch.html

[Dunc]

DPC's "Shirtmaking" book (the first one, anyway) has nothing whatsoever on drafting or fitting, it's all construction.

There's not a lot out there in print on shirt drafting, and almost nothing on fitting - at least not that I've been able to find. The best I've found is Mike Maldonado's video course, which includes some very useful advice on a number of common fitting issues, but even he doesn't really deal with balance adjustments, asymmetric shoulders, or the like. I do think he has a better approach to drafting though, which is quite different to the usual proportional method that you'll find in all the books...

The best I can recommend is to study King Wilson's "The Art of Cutting and Fitting", and then figure out how to apply the principles he describes to shirts. Reuben Sytner's "The Art of Fitting Gentlemen's Garments" is probably also worth looking at, although I haven't personally done so properly yet.

Somebody should write a book, but I'm not sure if there's enough of a market for it, and all of the people with the knowledge to do it justice are far too busy actually making shirts.

At the end of the day, there's no substitute for practice.

[Schneiderfrei]

Before we hijack posaune's post on Rundshau,

There's this:

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=61.0

Let's all contribute an analytical effort to decscribe the minor balances from King-Wilson??

There are other books in German that minutely descibe fitting problems. They are not in English, though, except the ones peterle and I have translated and posted on this forum.

G

[Dunc]

That thread is locked, so we can't contribute to it...

[Schneiderfrei]

Start a new thread, with fresh ideas.

[Petruchio]

Sorry, I didn't want to hijack the thread. But since I'm Austrian I would love to know what German speaking literature is out there.  

[Schneiderfrei]

I did not intend to point any fingers Petruccio, but it would be good for the forum, I think, to start some new topics, new ideas. Especially with good titles to guide everyone to specific topics.

Rundschau's "Passformfehler" is a compliation of a few of the responses to an old competition to solve fitting problems, they ran from before the 1950's.  The old articles showed a photo image of a badly fitting garment one week and respondents submitted their solutions, the best were published the next week. Sometimes you can pick up th original compilation, called "Wir Aendern". The second volume is very rare.

I cannot recommend Guido Hofenbitzer's Massschnitt u. Passform too much. It is for Damenbekleidung, but the analytical style is universal and it is very modern. Just have a look.

G