shoulderpads

[posaune]

How do you fasten you shoulder pads in a coat. Do you sew them with big stiches along the sleeve armhole seam allowance and to the shoulder allowance or just punctual?

lg posaune

[peterle]

Der Schulterpolster wird zwischen Kamelhaareinlage und Rosshaarplack eingeschoben und mit grossen Stichen daran befestigt. wenn dann das Futter auch an Ort und Stelle ist, wird entlang dem Armloch in der NZG durch alle Lagen durchgeheftet.

English: the pad lies inbetween the horshair chest piece and  the camelhair(?). after bringing the lining in place, you baste around the armhole in the SA taking the stitches through all layers.

[jruley]

I'm sure peterle has forgotten more about shoulder pads than I will ever know .  (1860's reenactment coats have a natural shoulder line and little to no padding).

However, Cabrera's book shows another way.  The chest piece and main canvas are fastened together with pad stitching, so it's impossible to put the pad between them.  Instead, the canvas is left free in the shoulder area.  The canvas and pad are basted together with long stitches, then they are basted to the scye.

I would be interested to know how many different techniques professionals use.

[TTailor]

i cross stitch the shoulder pad to the canvas once it is in the correct position.
I also stitch close to the armhole seam allowance stabbing up through the shoulder pad along the whole length of the pad.

[Schneiderfrei]

I thought this post might be a reasonable place for my translation from the ABC des Schneiderhandwerk - The Making of a Coat.

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=148.0

The Shoulder Pads (Cotton Supports)

We don't make cotton stuffing, rather, cotton underlay or cotton supports, because they are only supposed to serve the purpose (in Normal figures) of supporting the jacket shoulders and shaping them according to respective fashions.  We all know of flat shoulder tops, high and wide shoulders, that can be achieved through the use of cotton padding.  In physical deformities cotton has yet another use, namely, compensation for eg a hanging shoulder; then one can certainly speak of cotton padding.  The cotton support is given great importance by many Masters and every tailor has his own views on the making of shoulder pads.  The question as to whether the pad is to be attached above or under the canvas inlay [Einlageversteifung] alone causes great division.  Here the shoulder pad will be shown basted out with cotton.



Abbildung 71. Shows a cardboard template of the size of the finished pad, two different sized pieces of inlay material, ( hair canvas, cut in warp and weft directions, see arrows) and two cotton pieces. 



Abbildung 72. the two pieces of hair canvas are sewn together with machine stitches.  Thus we increase the curvature of the small inner piece, so that it draws the larger piece with it.  By the opposing spring-force of both parts we get a sturdy, longitudinal and transverse framework and respectively a framework for the cotton supports. 



Abbildung 73. Here we can see the stitched parts and their effect.



Abbildung 74. The cotton parts are placed one on top of the other, like in Abb 71. and the rear edges plucked out to give the necessary contour. Possibly the plucked out cotton can even be placed between the two cotton pieces. We baste these prepared cotton parts on the sewn framework, and take care in working to preserve the intended shape of the shoulder pad.  The basting stitches are passed 'through and through' thus vertically, through the cotton wool; transverse basting stitches can be only undertaken with difficulty because of the toughness of the cotton wool. 



Abbildung 75, the finished cotton supports are trimmed after the basting and pressed.  However, steam pressing is avoided in any case, since the volume of the shoulders pads would be lost.





Abbildungen 76 und 77 shows the jacket prepared for checking.

[Greger]

The first thing I learned about shoulder pads is to prevent the outer shoulder from clasping. They can also be used to help in appearance, such as lifting steep shoulders that they appear more normal. After that they are used for style and fashion. Sizes vary from none to thumb size, palm size and larger. So to say, whatever brings in the money.

[Thom Bennett]

IMO: I have been taught to pad-stitch the shoulder-pad to the canvas then largish backstitch around the armhole seam allowance.