Vauclair system: Coat draft, 1980

[Gramountoto]

Hi there,

Here is a french coat draft. As there is no other french draft on this site, I thought this might be of some interest for you.
This comes from the 1980 edition, which I do not advise you to purchase as it lacks a whole part about managing abnormal postures.
This system is still edited and can be ordered here: http://www.editions-vauclair.fr/nouveau/franc_edv/livres/page.php.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vogfhe3mjy8pngi/DraftVauclair1980.png?dl=0

"Montant du dos": Armhole depth
"Longueur de taille": from neck point to waist
"Longeur totale du veston": total coat length (from neck point)
"Carrure": Crossback
"Poitrine": Breast
"Ceinture": Waist
"Bassin": Seat
"Longeur de taille par homoplate": From shoulder point (obtained with 1/6 breast) to waist over the shoulder bone
"Longeur du buste devant": Front length, from shoulder point to waist

The draft is rather self explanatory but please have a look and if needed I'll translate the whole.

Sorry I did not manage to paste the picture with Postimage, I got an error message whatever I tried.
Hey it works now:

[Schneiderfrei]

That is wonderful Gramountoto,

Many thanks

[Greger]

Thanks Gramountoto.
It is nice to have another way of thinking about pattern making.

[Gramountoto]

One thing that puzzles me a bit is that the back armscye depth on the draft is the same as measured (with a tape from back neck, over the shoulder and under armpit or just with a straight strip of cardboard) without any ease.
Wouldn't you guys add some ease there just to avoid the armpit pushing the side panel down?

[Greger]

Some tailors and organizations put out some information, but not all of it. This way other people miss up and head back to their tailors.
Another reason why no additions to the top is customers can choose their own scye deep. And it varies from cloth to cloth, anyway.
How were you taught to measure from nape to scye depth? Where you taught to measure a little above the nape, or add to it?
The pattern is basic and open for needed adjustments, which includes fit and style.
Some tailors see a coat on someone, in their mind, and no pattern is going to git in the way of it. Of course, it has to please the customer.
My lesson is the pattern can be a starting point, but never dependent upon it.
And, the pattern is a specific art. And that one may not fit the customer's personality. So, adjustments are made.
I find so many people only know store bought thinking and nothing about what tailors should know and do. So many people who start tailoring later can be vary limited in their thinking. Don't take small children into clothing stores. Instead, teach them how to hand sew. Teach them fitting. How to adjust patterns into other patterns (one or two lessons). A few other basics. And let their imagination take over.

[Gramountoto]

Thanks Greger. Wise words.
These 2 ways of measuring armscye depth are both described in this book. As you say it's a starting point.