Der praktische Zuschnitt Heft VI - The Practical Cut Vol 6

[Schneiderfrei]

Der praktische Zuschnitt Heft VI

[Schneiderfrei]

A rough scan of the topics covered in Vol 6 Der praktische Zuschnitt:

Topics - D p Z 6


Rational production of an individual
Jackets basic draft

Preparation of the basic section for practical use

Five basic drafts for all dimensions

The individual draft according to the basic form - That increased the upper measurements by 4 cm according to the basic form

The extension of the back part in the armhole and the front part in the division seam

Extension of the rear part in the center back

The individual draft for a body figure still the normal basic form

The redrawing of a normal section for a slightly larger bust and upright posture

The practical draft of a jacket in kimono style

The sleeves draft in the front and back

The kimono with a special underarm

The protruding or retracted buttocks

Redraw the normal basic shape for drafting a kimono

Construction of the basic shape of the jacket sleeve

The redrawing of the sleeve for a slightly larger or smaller armhole

The change of the sleeve basic shape for the kimono draft

The straight kimono pendant with high armhole model no. 106 Preparation of the mantle base for drafting

Basic draft for the straight coat sleeve

The development of the draft of the Kimono Coat Model No. 106

Loosening of the kimono in front of and behind the arms

The same angular position of the kimono sleeve in the front and back

The development of the jacket model no. 103

The checked kimono pattern  Jacket Model No. 104

The draft development of the short fashionable jacket Model No. 105

The redrawing of the basic jacket shape to the base coat

The fashionable short sleeve with deepened armhole Model No. 107

The practical draft of a dress according to the basic form Model No. 108

[Schneiderfrei]

I am presenting here a small sample of the kind of material covered in this volume (VI) of Der praktische Zuschnitt.  The following translation comprises the first few pages of the Vol VI.  It describes the advantages of the "Speaking Draft" that contains all the information required to produce the draft within the diagram.  It also tells how to adapt the draft on the cloth without resorting to redrawing.  Many thanks once again for peterle's help.

Rational Production of Basic Draft for an Individual Jacket

In general, to be able to effectively counter increasingly fierce competition in tailoring, it is necessary to check ones customary work practices for profitability.  Since in the production of a bespoke garment one must begin with the draft, in this brochure we'll try to give some practical indications and show a way one can

save time in production even at the stage of the draft,

without ignoring the individual body measurements.  The prerequisite for this is of course that the Mistress or Master controls the process in every detail.

For example, when one knows how the pattern changes when the back width, back length or front length differs for 0,5-1cm,

you don't need a new draft for each customer

but by using an existing pattern you will be able to draw the garment directly onto the fabric integrating the differences in measurements.  How far a perfect fit can be achieved depends, of course, on the accuracy of the measurements taken and from the correct execution of the draft as well as the general reliability of the cutting system.  Firstly, therefore, we show the –

The Sectional Layout of the Basic Jacket Draft

Zeichnung 1

Main measures:                     ½   ¼   ⅛
Kg  Body height   168 cm      84   42  21
Ow Bust width     100 cm       50    –     –
Tl   Waist width     76 cm       38   19    –
Gw  Seat width    106 cm       53    –     –

Calculated measures:                                      Formulae
Sp back mirror width   7 cm =                      1/10 h. Ow + 2 cm
at back arm depth        21,5 cm =                 1/10 Ow + 1/10 h. Kg + 3 cm
Rl Back length             42 cm =                    ¼ Kg
Gt Seat depth               63 cm =                     ¼ + ⅛ Kg
Bt Chest depth             27 cm =                     1-2 cm under Ow-line
Vl Front length            42 cm =                      Rl + 2 cm

Rb Back width            18 cm =                       2/10 Ow minus 2 cm
Ad armhole diameter  11 cm =                       1/10 Ow + 1 cm
Bb chest width           21 cm =                       2/10 Ow + 1 cm
                                50 cm =                        ½ Chest circumference

When checking the measurements it is recommended, to add together the last three related measurements, the back width, the armhole diameter and chest width: it must give half the bust.  As soon as a shortfall is discovered the measurements must be balanced according to the figure.  One must accordingly increase the Back- and Chest width evenly or only one or both measurements.  The contrary is done when there is surplus width.

The draft is worked up as a 'speaking draft'.  All the important calculations and measurements are shown in the draft (are included).  Therefore, we can grasp the instructions very quickly.

Since here we are dealing with a normal waisted jacket draft, the ease allowances are set accordingly.  The ease is thus 1.5 cm in the back width, 2.5 cm in the armhole diameter and 2 cm in the chest width. Thus, we get a total ease of 6 cm for the half chest of an average jacket.

These additions for ease must naturally be determined according to fashion and from the point of view of taste.  They also vary according to the type of garment.

The back arm depth is increased by 2 cm.  If a very small, high armhole and a comparatively narrow sleeve should be required, an ease of 1.5 cm is sufficient.  Conversely, one can also use 2.5 cm ease for a jacket, if one wants a somewhat larger armhole and a wider sleeve.   

For this first presentation we have intentionally chosen a jacket draft, since the jacket ease allowances lie somewhat in the middle, between a dress and an overcoat.  By increasing or decreasing the width and length allowances one can thus, also develop further from the jacket draft a dress or overcoat cut.  One merely has to be aware of the necessary ease allowances.  Accordingly, we have inserted a table of the different allowances for dresses, jackets and overcoats.

Since, in this jacket draft, one can readily remove any amount at t1 and g1 below the back width line Rb, for the sake of simplicity, for this normal posture, we did not move the centre back inwards at the seat height and we hollowed the centre back line only 0.5 cm at the waist from T1-T.

The front part height and the shoulder height are determined normally and for the shoulder position of the front we marked the amount of the Hs towards the front from At to Hs.

For a smooth shoulder height at the back part, a—ah is lowered 3 cm; of course the amount by which the pattern must be pinched off in the middle of the armhole, or needed for a shoulder pad, must be specially added, thus be placed higher.  For the shoulder height at the front part, the amount from Av—Ah is raised by the same amount as Rb—ah minus 1 cm.

A a slim and smooth projection of the waist (centre front) is generally determined as ¼ waist measure minus 1-2 cm.  For this jacket draft we have, naturally, relaxed this measurement somewhat and calculated as ¼ waist circ. without the deduction.

For this draft, the total width of the waist tv-th is half the waist plus an allowance of 4 cm.  The excess in the waist (th –T) is distributed as per the diagram (1-6-3 cm).

The center front seat point is determined according to the body shape of the customer.  In general one can push back from G1—gv, the amount from T1—tv at waist height minus 2 cm.  So, in the belly part, one achieves an allowance for the belly/trunk rounding of 2 cm.  This measurement must be determined accordingly, when the trunk protrudes more or is reduced.

The expected ease for the half seat width is 3 cm.  The shortfall that forms at Gt—gh, plus the loss at g1 at the side must be overlapped. Everything else is as seen in the diagram.

[Greger]

Thank you! 
That is a lot of work!

[Schneiderfrei]

I only need a bit of help from peterle these days.

[spookietoo]

Thank you guys so much for this! 

This should keep me busy all summer.

Vielen dank!

[Steelmillal]

Ditto vielen Dank! Been working hard at resurrecting decades old
HS German class echoes. Makes the task of absorbing trade skills in time-manner-place format w/o proper American slang über difficult, haha.