Rundschau cutting ladies coats - does anyone have access to the old files on C&T

[TTailor]

Does anyone have the pictures that accompany the translation of this topic from the old Cutter and Tailor forum?
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2226

Like may other files, the photos were on photobucket and sadly unavailable.

If anyone saved the entire file before photobucket changed could you post it here?

If no one has it, does anyone have the original in German that they could post here?

Many thanks,
T

[posaune]

Terri, as far as I can see, there are at the end of Part I #4 the original and still available in Photo bucket .  And in #7, #13 #15. That is the whole text with all the pics as far as I can remember.  Shall we put it here on this page?
lg
posaune

[Thom Bennett]

Terri, If you right click on the photobucket image and select open in new page/tab (depending on your browser) it will take you to Sator's photobucket. If you then click on his name at the top left this will take you into his photo bucket and from there you can look at or download images, discovered this hack this morning when looking for the Rundschau coat ironwork schematic.

[Steelmillal]

I have this saved as an html on a secure unconnected laptop, and before the photobucket blackout. I just today moved files for hours intendeding to pdf them all and get loaded onto Dropbox. I could post it here, as is, if someone told me how. I've no pdf creator yet, though, so expect plus a week for Dropbox dump, if that even. Best this.

[Schneiderfrei]

I have it saved to disk as well.

[jeffrey]

Try this
https://web.archive.org/web/20171101235148/http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2226

[Schneiderfrei]

Brilliant Jeffery.

[posaune]

It is an old draft! Nowaday the balance calculation of the front length = Length of waist + 2  is not longer valid. They have altered this very drastical. It depends with the bust circ.
lg
posaune

[TTailor]

Thank you, everyone!

[TTailor]

It is an old draft! Nowaday the balance calculation of the front length = Length of waist + 2  is not longer valid. They have altered this very drastical. It depends with the bust circ.
lg
posaune

Noted!
I will apply my own check/ balance measures to it.

[TTailor]

Terri, If you right click on the photobucket image and select open in new page/tab (depending on your browser) it will take you to Sator's photobucket. If you then click on his name at the top left this will take you into his photo bucket and from there you can look at or download images, discovered this hack this morning when looking for the Rundschau coat ironwork schematic.

Thank you, I will try this. I was trying to access it from an ipad and saving the image was not working!

[posaune]

Terri, this are the new balance measurements:

VL (Frontlength) = Rl  (waistlength) +3-4.5 cm (Bustcirc 80 - 92)
VL                        = Rl + 4.5 - 5 cm + 1/10 Uebermass  (Bustcirc 92.5 - 116)
VL                        = Rl +5.5 + 1/10 Ubermaß (Bustcirc 116.5 - 128)
from 128.5 it is 6 cm + Uebermass
(Uebermass you need when a Bust is over 100.  Uebermass = Bu measured - 100.
Example: Uebermass = 116 Bu (measured) - 100 = 16;
You add 16 /10 = 1.6 cm )

You are supposed to calculate your front length with this formular and compare it to the measured Vl.  If you have more than 1 cm difference you have a problem.
lg
posaune                                                   

[TTailor]

Posaune that is very helpful!
I dont draft for ladies very often and I wanted to try out a method other than the one I have used in the past. (Natalie Bray)

[TTailor]

Posaune how does the change in the front length calculation affect the point Ah?
If Vl is 5 cm more than Rl does the position/calculation of Ah remain the same? It looks like it should be raised as well

[posaune]

The back armhole  depth (Rh) is measured from the 7. vertebrae down to waist. The angle of the back shoulder determines how high the back armhole is.
The front armhole is drafted with 2 cm less then the back armhole height and with a curved distance with the value of 1/20 Bu. If you want the armhole tighter - maybe for an evening dress  - the curved distance is 1/20 Bu +1 (2,3) so the front Ah and ergo the whole Ah will be less.  When you are leaving the proportional values (straight posture, big bust, long front length) you do the front armhole a bit longer but you do the curved distance longer too (the same amount).
Tomorrow I'll add a pic so that you can see what I mean. it is too difficult for me in english :-)