Rundschau Coats

[posaune]

Under the christmastree this year I found the Rundschaubook "Coats".

https://www.muellersohn.com/haka-schnittkonstruktionen-jacken
It was on my wishlist bwecause I will sew my husband some "outdoor"coat and I don't know how to size pockets, collars a.s.o, that it will look good with gent's wear.  I must alter the drafts very much because of the posture of my husband - fighting on one front is enough.

It has about  basic patterns:
paletot ease 10.5
Coat wide with Inset sleeve or raglan sleeve ease 14 cm
Coat Kimono  ease 20 cm
parka ease 11.5 cm
coat fitted  ease 6.7 cm
jeans coat  ease 5.5 cm
shirt coat ease 7.5 cm
outdoor waist coat wide
outdoor waist coat normal
and an overall
There are 40 models and  and 11  models for job garments mostly for hotel personal.
Nice variations of Hoods, pockets and back styles.
All in all a rehash from the journals as always. (But as I do not own them a good catch for me)
But I would like to have them better edited as always.

There are no corpulent drafts, no alterations and the measures are sparsley explained. So not for beginners. But it gives me a lot of design ideas. And the styles are very wearable.
lg
posaune

[TTailor]

That looks interesting!
Do you kniw what style he wants!
Post pictures of your process if you are able.
T

[Schneiderfrei]

Der Weihnachtsmann ist, ja, immer aufmerksam.

I am surprised there are no corpulent drafts, is it supposed that one knows the correct adjustments?

I would love to see any progress.

My only projects since winter have been:

Translations of reference books (I really appreciate that you showed us Massschnitt und Passform - Hofenbitzer)

Developing a pattern for a new Tai Chi outfit. Which I decided was not quite tailoring. It has a drawstring waist.  Although I used some tailoring concepts to fancy it up a bit, like a grown on gusset.

G

[posaune]

Oh well.
I made a basic pattern with the variations for corpulent gents. I choose the wide coat.
I made alterations for a bend body in a) like Mueller suggests (but not in this extreme) (right)
b) from a dutch book:  Maatwerk pasvorm correcties (left)
Now I'lL cut a sample. First the dutch back because I'm curios if it works (blue). The mueller alterations I have done last year for an overcoat - it worked (red). After this I'll decide about the pockets, collars, sleeves a.s.o.
It is not easy, he can't stand for measurements and only short for fitting, it is a bit like your challenge, Terri.
lg
posaune

[Greger]

It looks like a nice book. I'd like a whole library of books of many types of patterns. So many possibilities of clothes to wear.

[Hendrick]

Sorry for this late reaction, but does the Rundschau book give indications on the ease allowance in relation to the weight and thickness of the materialen used? I am asking this because I remember my dad wrapping a quarterone wdth of fabric around his wrist to detemine this...

Regards, Hendrick

Ps I see a lot of young Guys wearing extremely slim fitting overcoats....

[Henry Hall]

So slim they aren't able to go 'over' a jacket.

[Hendrick]

I fact, they -are- jackets...

cheers, Hendrick

[Schneiderfrei]

The 1951 Rundschau draft for Der Stutzer ( http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=411.msg3110#msg3110 ) asks whether the coat is intended to be used instead of a jacket or over one.

[posaune]

No you are on your own there.
There are classes of ease. So if you wore a jacket under the overcoat you take a higher ease class. I think about 14 cm is a good guess. I think you measure the customer in his jacket and look how much to add.
(Or you take the ease as if you are lining the overcoat with fur. This ease was given in older drafts.  My assuption is that men in those days wore always a jacket under the overcoat.)
But all this depends on fabric and customer wishes.
lg
posaune

[Greger]

Yes! Ease is variable. Separate measurements added into the figurerings.
One way to figure the needed extra lengths is to compare a string measure and a rope measure. The rope measure, because it is thicker, is longer. Same measurement, but thickness makes longer. If you take a string and tie knot the  knots takes less than an extra 1/4 inch. A 1/2 inch thick rope, that same knot, might need an extra 6 inch length. The adjustment sometimes is about accommodating bulk.
Before there were patterns for everything tailors made adjustments for what they were making. A suit coat pattern can easily be adapted to make a cape, vest (waistcoat), sports coat, blazer, Norfolk, overcoat, etc.  All kinds of coats.
Hostek certainly used the customers  coat pattern to make a vest (weskit) pattern for the customer. For him it was faster, because the major fitting was already done.
Do this enough you can you can look at the situation and pick a number for ease/bulk/whatever and be very close to the right amount, and not fiddle with taking extra measurements. Dead reckoning.

[Hendrick]

Hi! As non menswear person, born to a tailor... my dad hammered into me that covercoats, chesterfields and peacoats or "cabans" were as close as you can get to a sportcoat, but not to a suitcoat or even a blazer. So structure is everything. Overcoats, guards- and officers coats, to him, were derived from military attire and, although structured were built for topweight wools. The inbetween would be the covercoat, an unstructured trencoat like overcoat not suitable for full winter or full summer. The French would call it "demi saison". I guess that, with the proper experience, any of these can be tweeked to perfection for the material and purpose. With customers' patterns at the hand for a master, well... I suppose he would be cutting and drafting with the imperfection of his client at hand, as well as a clear vision of what he envisioned as end result. As  a womenswear designer, however, All this is lightyears beyond my technical scope...
Cheers, Hendrick

[Treggo]

Same here, Hendrick. It seems like I'll never be as good as that in a million years. But I take it one day at a time. Who knows... haha