Corpulent Rundscau patterns for body coats

[LeiaOrgana2187]

Just wanna ask again out of curiosity... wonder if there is a corpulent Rundschau pattern for body coats? And the methodology of how to tweak them? Saw a Reverende pattern for corpulent figure but no explanation of hot to treat the pattern before drafting to the cloth.

[posaune]

What is a Body coat?
Sure there are corpulent construction explained
Posaune

[Thom Bennett]

Body Coats are those that are fitted to the body such as frock coats, tails, waistcoats.  They fit close to the body hence the name.  I don't know any German drafts for this but there are plenty of English systems for such coats, maybe look at the Modern Tailor and Outfitter or search for body coat drafts.  They are generally "tweaked" like most coat drafts as the fitting points are generally the same.

[LeiaOrgana2187]

Just like what I said earlier, there are Rundschau patterns for body coats (especially body coats).... and there is one example for a corpulent figure I have....



This one is for a clerical variant of a frock coat. But what I was asking was a tutroial diagram on how to treat the patter before cutting....

Something like the white shapes on black backgrounds here:

[peterle]

In my Mueller "Zuschnitt fuer die Herrenschneiderei XVII" there are several corpulent drafts ( Cutaway, Gehrock, Frack, Soutanelle, and the Reverende you posted).

The preperation is the same for all of them. The pattern gets slashed along the chestline and pivoted open for 1,5cm at the front edge. Then you slash the front dart up to the chestline and pivot the dart a bit more open (from 1,5cm to 2cm usually). In patterns wich allow a neckhole dart you also slash a line from the neckhole to the chest line (about to 2cm from e towards CF) , and pivot the front edge part. This will open the neckhole dart (about 1,5cm) and reclose the front edge line more or less.  The actual dart has to be short enough to be hidden under the lapel.
Thus the added width and length for the chest is only at the center of the chest line, keeping the front edge short. But keep in mind that this preperations are only for patterns that are yet drafted with a corpulent draft. They are not intended to change a normal draft to  corpulent draft. (like on your second pic)

[LeiaOrgana2187]

Any helpful photos to guide? Would be appreciated

[peterle]

Obviously you own the XVII th edition of the Zuschnitt. The How to´s of the preperation are on page 280.

[LeiaOrgana2187]

P.S. I do not really have a copy of that book. Those pictures I posted, I downloaded them from C&T forum.

I don't have that book frankly, so that's why I'm asking in the first place. But I often wish I can own that.

[peterle]

Well, I thought You have it, because both of your scans are from this edition.

Wich kind of bodycoat do you want? Maybe I can scan a pattern.

[LeiaOrgana2187]

A corpulent frock coat would work.... since its the most basic form I can work from.... And please include diagrams for preparation of the pattern prior to cutting...

Thank you in advance.

[peterle]

So You want a corpulent draft for a doule breasted lapeled coat (=Gehrock)?

[LeiaOrgana2187]

A single breasted Gehrock would work, but double is fine....

[LeiaOrgana2187]

Any results as of now? I would convert that pattern into something like this, albeit corpulent. Needed it for both me and a cousin of mine for a formal ball in two months time.

[peterle]

 There is no corpulent draft for a full skirt single breasted bodycoat, but you can take the skirt of the Lutherrock.

So the corpulent Cutaway (engl.:morning coat)

[LeiaOrgana2187]

There is no corpulent draft for a full skirt single breasted bodycoat, but you can take the skirt of the Lutherrock.

So the corpulent Cutaway (engl.:morning coat)

Well.... Thanks for this very much.... this is a big help to me.

I think I must open a thread entirely dedicated to posting corpulent drafts to help people like me....

BTW... Can the gorge dart be omitted if it is not asked for, especially when adopting this into clerical/military style coats that fasten high in in the neck, where a gorge dart looks unsightly most of the time?