Grundschnitt DOB (Basic Pattern ladies) fom Fashionmakery

[posaune]

https://shop.fashionmakery.com/buecher/grundschnitt-dob
there is a new book from Mueller Verlag.
I bought it and did not know to weep or to laugh - it was extremley expensive.
It's format is 30 cm x 42 cm. Real large - nothing to lay on the cutting table. The font is nevertheless maybe 10 p. It looks extremly silly when they show a "tellerrock" going over 2 pages.
They use an nice neo-orange color throughout the book. Which is a real stab into my eyes and some of it is because of this not readable:
White Style drawings (Line width 1p) on neonorange back ground. Or neo orange headers maybe 12 point on white back ground.
The book handels about 30 basic pattern. Nothing new on the front. They use now angles to draft not the distances Mueller gave. (But if you think it is for computer you are wrong. They fold the dart to get a dart roof)
The size range is from 72(?), 34 up to 46. They take 48 measurements and show where to measure. If you want to know how look at the video on theire page. https://fashionmakery.com/makery/richtig-massnehmen/
They work with abbrevation (maybe 300? ) and 41 icons. They are not seperate you must always go back in the book to see what they mean. But it is explained thoroughly that you have to master them to understand the work flow.
The self explaining days of the pattern drawings are over. Mostly on the right the drawing (points re number ed simply 1,2 a.s.o. and on the left the legend.
But it starts with an abbreviation (in bold)  to draft par example the back neck:

hHalsLo   P30 -(arrow to the left) HSp = 6.4 cm =P38

My biggest impression was how a bad layout can ruin a book it may be art but nothing for learning and teaching.
Why I did not send it back? The content (new sleeves drafts) and their approach of handleing the back neck-shoulder-area. I must work a draft through to say something about ist.

Lg Posaune

[Greger]

Sounds disappointing.
The problem with books we can't see inside,  is,  what's in them?

[spookietoo]

Sorry the book was so dissappointing. Hopefully the sleeve section may have something useful so its not a total loss.

When I was growing up, we learned to moan anytime mom said we were having "something different", for dinner. Normally an excellent cook - on her own - she had a knack for experimenting with recipes from magazines that were always a flop.  I learned early that "different", does not make something "better".

Publishers need to stop trying to reinvent the printing process just because they can. Books should be legible - first and foremost - creativity should be secondary to legibility. Thomas Von Nordheim's book also suffered from "too much creativity" also.

[posaune]

You say it, Spookietoo, it is a pity too with the Nordheim-book. I do not want to whine. But a book for studying has to be readable not a designer outbreak.
When - in my far away youth - I learned to design (fonts) - the first principle was: It must be easy readable. The purpose was always first then followed design.
the different way of drafting is interesting I'll start today. If interested I will show it.
lg
Posaune
posaune

[Schneiderfrei]

I thought there should be a discount for the missing letters.

That book Massschnitte u. Passform - Hofenbitzer, is very well presented. colourful, concise and thorough.

And yes, I am interested to see your breakdown, please.

[pfaff260]

Thank you for your review Posaune. I agree, why change something good? And that orange, it's a strain on the eyes.

[posaune]

well, I have made no real progress.
Example: In the chapter Basic Upper Body without darts
a Blouse
The drafts are done with the bust measurement (size 38) = 88 cm
Now for ththe draft they calculate for Rb = 2/10  Bu -1 = 16 ,6 AD 1/10 + 2 = 10.8 , BB 2/10-1 = 16,6
Then + ease and draft with this a size 38 pattern!!!

but in their measurement table they have for a size 38 Rb = 16.5 AD = 9.5  BB = 18.00
which is more reality!
Krass!
lg
posaune

[posaune]

I have made a little progress in so far I wrote to the editor about a leaflet with all the abbreviations and formulas which was written about in the book but was not there. They wrote they will have it in the 2. ed. (If I would buy a second one!)  But good news they send me  DIN A 4 sized pages - so handable!! The book is so big I could not copy it. The letters are now a size 8 fonds not easy for my old eyes - but better than before.
Good news: the neo orange changed to a dull one. Or maybe the copy machine was more intelligent than the designer:-).
lg
posaune

[Schneiderfrei]

That is very funny posaune

[posaune]

Oh, yes, Schneiderfrei and I payed 139 Euro. I'm still laughing. That is called book posessing greed
:-)
lg
posaune

[Schneiderfrei]

Ich kenne diese Krankheit, Ja, sehr gut!

[Greger]

The purpose of illustrations is to make  visually clear, quickly.