Our Alterations - An Impossible Underside

[Schneiderfrei]

[posaune]

Thanks again. Very important article - this is a real gem.
You see this nice back view even today.
The full back pants cut you can find in todays Jeans and maybe corkers clothes.
Concerns men and women.
(In the next issue is the rest of the explanations for this example - they had not enough time)
The "Wir aendern" worked this way: They gave in the journal a pic about a bad fitting garment (small pic) at bottom.
Thery ask 2 questions: what is wrong here and why. How would you alter it.
You could write to them and if you were right your name and city was published.
It (was) is so very nice to train the eye. Or you could send in a photo from one of your problem customer.
Now you have a solution for a hanging side and a collar standing away from neck hole (even usable for gents and ladies) besides the 2 back views of the lady.
lg
posaune

[Schneiderfrei]

I now have over 50 of these Wir Aendern.  Several are in succession but not all. Many of course are in the published books, but many are not.  It is my plan to scan the ones that are orphans. Do you mean to say that there is a third page for this problem?

G

[posaune]

yes in the 125 issue
oh that would be marvellous ,Schneiderfrei.
The books (till today) are only a rehash!
lg
posaune

[Schneiderfrei]

Ok, now I see.  The extra mention of 124 at the bottom.  It would be a miracle if I could find that Redaktion.  Hmmm

Although I do have 125.

[Schneiderfrei]

An Impossible Underside

The 124


Anyone, even a layman, can see that these pants do not fit.  The reason for the poor fit is quickly seen by a professional by looking at the run of the stripes in the cloth.  The stripes at the seat seam of the undersides are cut in such a way that the tailor is already aware of the incorrect seat seam before the pants are laid flat on the table to check the cut.  If one looks at the cut of these pants, one knows what error was made here. 

The seat part lies much too diagonally, so an excessively diagonal side seam is also cut.  Thus the crotch diameter [Spaltdurchmesser] to the underside is too small.  With this cut the pants must hang in the gap and show too long below the bottom.  This is a cut that might still make riding pants; that would be correct for ladies pyjamas; even with children's clothes one finds such a seat seam.  But for a slim, and naturally well-fitting ladies pants an alteration must take place.



Zeichnung 1

With undersides cut like this a good fit is impossible.

So, this is the exact look of the cut we have made for these trousers.  The front part shows a reasonable situation.  Apart from a somewhat strong hip curve at the side seam, that certainly cannot be incorrect, it can already be seen that the front part will sit well.  The undersides, on the contrary, shows the typical picture of a much too diagonal seat seam.  So that this seat seam is also much too full in the gap and the crotch tip of the undersides appears, abundantly, too short.  Because of the striping of the cloth this poor cut appears especially obvious.  Perhaps the customer, when ordering the trousers, expressed some special wishes for comfort, that the tailor then believed to have met with such a cut. 

Provided that the two darts have not already been cut, as a rule, such pants can also be altered because an inlay is always left at the seat seam.  As far as the inlay is concerned, the amount we would need for these pants is not available. To carry out this alteration correctly we would need to let out a considerable amount up at the waist, behind the buttocks.




Zeichnung 2

This is how the undersides are to be altered.


Strike out from point A, in an arc to the right, the centre of this arc lies below at the knee height with point M.  In this case, measure out 5 cm to the right from A.  The same 5 cm are taken off the side seam and indeed run down til knee height.  This seam line is clearly seen in the illustration.  Both seat dart seams must now, naturally, be opened, which, as said previously, should not yet have been cut, and this should not be done with ladies trousers anyway.  A second arc is struck out from B to the right.  This arc is determined at the knee height with S.  The inseam is let out by about 4 cm, running below to the knee height.  This change is possible because perhaps enough cloth is still available.  It may be possible to use the fabric strip that was removed at the side seam to re-attach at the inseam.  The seat seam is drawn out from A to B exactly the same as the illustration.  At the same time the gap may be slightly hollowed out.

All in all a somewhat laborious alteration.  In the end the entire band must be detached.  In the time it takes to effect this alteration a new pair of ladies pants might be produced.  The result of the alteration must surely be astounding.  The undersides will bring a reliably smooth seat, with only a little stride length.  A completely smooth fitting rear pants cannot be seen with normal cloth.  For that there are the different elastic materials for so-called stirrup-pants.