drafting a sleeve

[posaune]

the end

Now I show to complete it how to draft a sleeve from the first type of armhole and cap.
A classical slim sleeve with elbow dart  or 2 piece sleeve:
First you draft the front sleeve break, line goes straight down from front notch down. The back sleeve break you find in ½ the distance between C and D. Straight line up and down.
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Now the elbow line. You calculate it with 60 % of the Sleeve length , draft down from Point A. Now you tighten the sleeve at elbow . You draft in 1 cm in at front break and back break und at back side seam. You draft 2 -3 cm up at the hem like shown and you mark 1/2 of your hem width from this point to the hem line. You connect like shown in blue for front sleeve and green for back.

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you cut down from front notch to hem and cut this part at elbow line. You rotate the front pieces so they touch the blue line. They will overlapp. Now mirrow the blue line at the back break about that line for the formed back sleeve.

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You find the point where the front side seam will end. You measure the distance and go to the back side seam and shorten here. Rotate the back and the front so that they will touch at elbow line and back break. Finish with a gentle curved hem. You have to stretch the side seam of front with the iron. To do it easier do notches about up 14 cm from hem and 14 cm down from B and C.
end
I used some books to write this: Maßschnitte und Passform, Guido Hofenbitzer, Verlag Europa Lehrmittel
Schnittkonstruktion für Blusen und Kleider, Deutsche Bekleidungsakademie München, Rundschauverlag,
Pattern Cutting, Dennic Chunman Lo, Laurence King Publishing and my notices from courses held by Schule für Mode und Design, Offenbach.

[TTailor]

Thanks!
When I get home from vacation I plan on trying them out!

[spookietoo]

Posaune - Thank you! Thank you! Thankyou!  This is so kind of you to take this time - I am having a devil of a time with my sleeves. I'll work on this throughout the week.

Vielen dank!

[posaune]

I'm very interested how you will find the draft.
A last end (hehehe)

Here are 3 other types of sleeves derived of the system
First is a two piece sleeve. Derived from the narrow sleeve. You set a curve on both seams about 1 cm. This way you can get more room for the biceps.
The second is a sleeve for a knitted fabric and the third is a shirt sleeve. (We had now 83% 75% and 65%)
The last two are derived from different cap heights. The shirt sleeve is already shortened for the cuff.  I have taken the same armhole dates which would not be the case in reality.
lg
posaune

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[Schneiderfrei]

I am determined to do it but I am putting aside time to read through He he.

[posaune]

Oh it came out a bit long, didn't it??
lg
posaune

[spookietoo]

More than a bit....but then that's what I needed...lots of diagrams, directions and explanations.


I've so much going on in my life at the moment....I keep waiting for my sewing to be relaxing - I need it to be!


But then it just occurred  to me during this post, that when I am extra stressed - my brain has trouble with simple math functions....usually I'm a bit of a whiz.  Its no wonder I'm having such a problem!


So now that you've helped me realize that issue also - thank you! - hopefully I can get down to business now that I know what to do.

[Schneiderfrei]

By no means too long - I love it -  it does deserve the time to put in to read it. 

[peterle]

Oh no, it´s not too long.
It´s as long as it has to be. Thanks a lot for taking the time to write it!

[lindankle]

This is an absoultely amazing tutorial ... 

[Hendrick]

Thank you Posaune, this is definitely worth the time! I will try it against my personal "mixed bag" methods that almost always seem to have missing parameters and sometimes sleeve heads in special measurements turn out "arkward looking" like the koreans say (but then, they call a sheeth dress "one piece dress")

Thank you for your insights, cheers, Hendrick