Gewandsammlung

[posaune]

After
http://www.die-gewand-sammlung.de/das-gewand-im-mittelalter
from Sven Jungclaus which shows drafts from the middle age and is of interest for Gewandmeister (theatre)
Now in April will come out:
http://www.die-gewand-sammlung.de/die-herrenschneiderei
which give basic pattern for gentlemen from trouser, vest, shirt, Coat and overcoat.
This is in my opinion a book, which is nice to have and not only because of the price very good for beginners.
Look in the text for Vorschau und you'll get a .pdf
lg
posaune

[jruley]

How does the trouser draft shown in the vorschau compare to a Rundschau draft?

[Schneiderfrei]

Thank you posaune,

Now, I see where that circular measurement reference comes from Ha ha.

That seems a very reasonable price.

Am I correct to think that the seat angle method is very similar to Mueller?

Certainly the back/underside is no more than 0.5 cm wider than my modern Mueller draft.

[posaune]

Sven Jungclaus has modified the trouser draft a bit. This is his former
http://www.die-gewand-sammlung.de/schnitttechnik/schnittmuster-zeichnen/grundlagen/grundschnitte#
you see nearly the original Rundschaudraft.

In the book he has simplified it in my opinion, it is not the same as Mueller or in his former draft. I must play with it before I could say more.
If you want to alter the gesaessdurchmesser you do it here with the meassure 1/20 Hip +- X.  But does this alter in the same time the slant of the back crotch seam? Mueller has here one trigger more and Mueller works from the hip line.
I'll see.
lg
posaune

[jruley]

Sven Jungclaus has modified the trouser draft a bit. This is his former
http://www.die-gewand-sammlung.de/schnitttechnik/schnittmuster-zeichnen/grundlagen/grundschnitte#
you see nearly the original Rundschaudraft.

Thanks for the link.  What do you think of the Grundschnitt Damen-Jacke shown there?  I thought I might try it for my wife...

[posaune]

No, Jim, I do not think this is what you should do. Go to the side from cutter and tailor. There is a ladies jacket which works very well (from Mueller).
You see, in Ladies draft it is in my opion very important  that the size of the bust dart is automatical generated - no inset numbers. I do not see this here. If you are a small and proportional size you can use that draft. But it can make difficulties which you can avoid using the former draft when you have a more matured figure.
lg
posaune

[jruley]

Thanks posaune.  Is it this one?

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2226

[pfaff260]

Thanks posaune.  Is it this one?

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2226

You can't go wrong with this jacket.

[posaune]

Yes that is the one, Jim. And as pfaff260 said you can't go wrong. (Do you own a pfaff260, pfaff??)

I have done the trouser draft from the book. I attach the result: the red is the trouser in the book the black is the trouser from his page. The front pattern is identical. You can influence the slant and diameter with the Hip/20 +- X at back and front crotch.
lg
posaune

[pfaff260]

Yes that is the one, Jim. And as pfaff260 said you can't go wrong. (Do you own a pfaff260, pfaff??)

I have done the trouser draft from the book. I attach the result: the red is the trouser in the book the black is the trouser from his page. The front pattern is identical. You can influence the slant and diameter with the Hip/20 +- X at back and front crotch.
lg
posaune

Yes Posaune, I own a Pfaff 260. When I joined the C & T forum i had to come up with a name. And I had just inherited this machine and because  all the other pseudo's I thought off where already in use.
Even Paff der Zauberdrachen was gone, so Pfaff260.

[hutch--]

 

Even though I don't read or speak DE, I can get that "Paff der Zauberdrachen" was "Puff the magic dragon" and the voice of Mary Allen Travers comes to mind from Peter Paul and Mary. I guess that is a sign of age. 

[posaune]

Sven Jungclaus has done a new book. I have it fresh out the press.
Handbuch des Herrenschneiders
Band 1
(Handbook of the custom tailor
part1)
it explained how to sew shirt, trouser and vest. It has about 400 pics which illustrate the sewing process.
Very nice .
https://www.die-gewand-sammlung.at/produkt/handbuch-der-herrenschneiderei-band-1-verarbeitung-von-hemd-hose-und-weste/
here you can have a look. In autuum there will be part 2 The Coat
lg
posaune

[posaune]

Now there is the second part about making the coat:

https://www.die-gewand-sammlung.at/produkt/handbuch-der-herrenschneiderei-band-2-verarbeitung-eines-sakkos/

You can get a preview (clicking the red text).
lg
Posaune

[pfaff260]

I bought them as well. I like them a lot!