Der Stutzer - 3/4 Length Overcoat 1951

[hutch--]

I am prone to being a barbarian in clothing taste but looking at some of the clothing design from the English Elizabethan era, some of it was far more practical than it may have looked. I have seen paintings of Sir Francis Drake and it looked like sensible garments for a ship's captain in terms of movement and action where the style of dress I associate with a fop is the type of thing you would associate with hangers on in a royal court. Not only English but the French court pre-revolution. I don't know enough about middle European royalty and custom but I would imagine it is not a lot different.

[jruley]

Getting back to the original subject, I have a copy of "Designing Men's and Young Men's Overcoats" by Harry Simons, editor of the Clothing Trade Journal, etc. published by Clothing Designer Co. in 1931.  Most of the coats are long styles, but it does have a section on "Mackinaws" which are about the same length as this draft.

If this is of interest to anyone please let me know.

[Schneiderfrei]

I hope that if I made any serious errors in the following translation some kind person can point them out and I will make the right changes.

For those not familiar with German, here is essentially what the summary at the bottom of the Seams and Inlays Page says:

Thus  — as indicated above — with all cut edges the seam of  ¾ cm width are already included with the following exceptions.

a) The middle (back) seams are almost invariably supplied with inlays — due to adjustments at the waist line and at the lower length and through the straight grained course of the seam from waist height down. — therefore the processing is substantially facilitated by marking out the finished seam.

b) the waist dart varies in its size, but the width of the front part to the pocket must but always be the same as the side dart, that is each enlarged section of the waist dart must be added to the side seam.  Therefore, processing of the waist dart is facilitated by a finished seam. (Also for the matching of fabric stripes)

c) The lower collar is placed open edged on the neck ring and pushed against it, so that no seam is lost; the drawn line can also be considered as a guide edge

d) the front edge necessarily continues below to the bottom length, this is already drawn as a finished length. Thus, no difficulties result when front edge is processed as a finished seam. 

These simple and logical seams and inlays cannot possibly lead to any errors and therefore are maintained in the same way for all drafts unless otherwise indicated.