How do I develop good shape in a coat with few darts?

[Philipdep]

Hello! I am attempting to replicate this beautiful velvet coat for a friend of mine. However, the pattern perplexes me, as it seems to have no darts except for one under the armscye. What might the dart look like, and would this interfere with the pocket? Also, how do I develop good shaping in the chest? I believe the only canvas in the coat is a 4 inch wide strip of lightweight hymo along the front edge and through the lapels. Thank you!




Here is a quick sketch of the pattern. I'm not 100% sure that the cart is correct. I have heard that it could be a straight triangle shape, but after looking at other patterns, the "diamond" shape seems like it would give a better taper in the waist.

[Schneiderfrei]

Hi Philipdep, that was very gracious of schneidergott to give you a few pointers.  You won't be forbidden from discussing this matter here, I'm sure.

You could give a bit more background about your experience, maybe some more about the coat.  It has a small canvas? Can you draw that? Does it have lining, shoulder pads??  What is the period that the coat is from?

How did you get to the point you are at now?

[Henry Hall]

Why does it need more than that dart and the shaping in the seams? It's not a body-coat like a frock coat.

[peterle]

Do You have access to the coat?

There are a few options to make the front dart dissappear:

Rotating the dart towards the lapel crease line to achieve a dart that´s hidden under the lapel.

Rotating the dart towards the scye and easing the "dart" in secured with a harshly pulled chain stitch.

Rotating the dart in line with the pocket inserting line.

A combination of two or all of these options by dividing the dart amount.

In any case the dart will be shorter than the original one.

Here are pics of dartless jackets:

[posaune]

I would take a 3 panel draft. I would ignore the bust dart. Shape the front panel to an even seam and give it a more pronounced waist shape (about 1 cm more, starting from scye to waist down to hip) and then lay the front and side panel together so they match under the pocket. So I get the shape of the dart.
lg
posaune

[Philipdep]

You could give a bit more background about your experience, maybe some more about the coat.  It has a small canvas? Can you draw that? Does it have lining, shoulder pads??  What is the period that the coat is from?

How did you get to the point you are at now?

As for my background experience, I have been learning tailoring for a few years now. Mainly from online forums and youtube tutorials. Unfortunately, there aren't any bespoke tailors in my town, so an apprenticeship hasn't been an option for me as of yet. However, I finished making my first "real" coat just about a week ago (pictured below; criticisms welcome).




As for the velvet coat, it is quite odd, as the lining is red shot with black and it starts about 1/4 inch from the from edge. It has rather structured shoulder pads, I estimate around 3/4 inch in thickness. The coat, as far as I know, is a recent design. It isn't an overcoat, but more of a 3/4 length sport coat or body coat; I'm basing this on the fit while it is on the wearer. Thank you very much for all the help!

[Philipdep]

I would take a 3 panel draft. I would ignore the bust dart. Shape the front panel to an even seam and give it a more pronounced waist shape (about 1 cm more, starting from scye to waist down to hip) and then lay the front and side panel together so they match under the pocket. So I get the shape of the dart.
lg
posaune

Ah, that sounds like a good idea! I will certainly give that a try, thank you!

[lepus]

I would limit the number of visible darts and seams in a velvet jacket to the minimum. The sewing and pressing are more difficult and the result may spoil the aspect somewhat. As has been pointed out, the sketched pattern with a underarm dart seems suitable. More chest shaping could be introduced with a hidden neck gorge dart, but I would prefer a more solid foundation (interfacing) myself to determine the shape. The jacket is pretty long, isn't it, with a rather wide hem circumference? What are the shoulders like, any filling/pads?

[Philipdep]

As has been pointed out, the sketched pattern with a underarm dart seems suitable.

Do you think the dart will interfere with the slanted welt pockets?

The jacket is pretty long, isn't it, with a rather wide hem circumference? What are the shoulders like, any filling/pads?

Yes, the jacket is pretty long, and it has a lot of flare in the skirt. The shoulders, from what I can tell, have structured pads about 3/4 inch thick.

[pfaff260]

An old tip from the Rundschau. For pressing your seams take your tailors brush, lay it on it's back and use the bristles as your pressing surface.
Saves you an expensive velvet pressing mat. And it works! My velvet lady's coat worked out a treat.

[Futura]

Saves you an expensive velvet pressing mat. And it works!

I've managed to find a couple affordable new old stock Dritz branded needle boards on eBay. The last one was about $40, including shipping within the US.

[Philipdep]

Thanks to everyone for the help! Would I also put the underarm dart in the lining? Also, since the lining starts 1/4 inch from the front edge, would it be better to bag the lining? Thanks!

[TTailor]

Have you sewn velvet before?
Are you using velvet or velveteen? Velveteen can be less problematic but still a challenge.
Make sure you do some sewing samples because it is a challenge to sew velvet, to press velvet and to sew lining to velvet successfully and at one go.
Ripping out seam in velvet often results in the fabric being permanently marked where it was sewn.

[Philipdep]

Have you sewn velvet before?
Are you using velvet or velveteen? Velveteen can be less problematic but still a challenge.
Make sure you do some sewing samples because it is a challenge to sew velvet, to press velvet and to sew lining to velvet successfully and at one go.
Ripping out seam in velvet often results in the fabric being permanently marked where it was sewn.

I have sewn velvet before, and it's not too fun! The velvet I'm using this time around is a very plush, tall pile cotton/modal blend from Holland and Sherry. Thanks for the tips!