Charlie Watts - great Tailoring comments

[jruley]

I call them "Wal-Martians" 

[Schneiderfrei]

That's right. Bogans = "An uncouth or unsophisticated person regarded as being of low social status."

[Greger]

"Comfort" today seems to be equated with oversized, loose and sloppy, or stretchy.  How is a tailor supposed to compete with that?"

Yes. For freedom of movement. But, what people don't know is that move freedom of movement and better comfort is putting the goods where they belong. It can still be loose and baggy. When the shoulders are right and the balance, straight and crooking, the comfort and freedom of movement is better. And, the collar sits nice. People don't know this. But when they get something that is they learn by wearing it. After that they want it. A cheaper shirt doesn't need high quality method of making. The sleeves can be sewn in the scye with a overcaster (serger). The side seam and sleeve in one go. The collar and yoke and placket and cuff use a sewing machine. The bottom edge however. The outside looks professional and the inside details don't matter for a cheaper shirt. The object is a better fitting shirt at a price ordinary people can buy.
Some people's posture is terrible and these shirts make a huge difference.

[Greger]

Everything has been done to death. Even jeans. It seems hard to come up with anything new. Younger people like something never done before. Each generation wants to leave its own mark. I wonder what will grab their attention next.

[Hendrick]

Everything has been done to death. Even jeans. It seems hard to come up with anything new. Younger people like something never done before. Each generation wants to leave its own mark. I wonder what will grab their attention next.

Trust it to be something that brings in the most cash the fasted! But also remember that most teenagers and twens never lived trough or have ever seen the trends we have... As an example, I have waded through -at least- five waves of flares, simply because the appear "new" to every new generation of teens...

Look at Gucci. Originally a typical Italian luxury brand, quiet in a sense but with a slightly "oblique" taste to it, especially under Tom Ford. Allessandro Michele arrives and goes all in retro 70s, with crushed velvets, crochet, fringes, "off" colours and what have you. Had nothing to do with the Gucci that we all knew but it was a huge succes, because it was clicked to heaven and back by youngsters on the internet who couldn't even afford the stuff.

Don't forget styling... How people put their outfits ("the sum of parts") together is evermore important than the individual item of clothing. Tiktok and other social media has propelled "self styling" into unseen before media power. Teenage girls and boys are "dipping their toes" in ever increasingly "risqué" self styled "fashion" imagery with jaw-dropping results and clicks&likes. Important fashion houses are astronomically huge amounts of their marketing budgets in influencers.

This "media hairball" leaves the consumer increasingly confused and insecure. Funny consequence of all this is that players like Shein and Temu actually use these images and "mash them up" to recrate AI generated "pictures" of the stuff they sell. An explosive mix of inflated lips, oversized butts and huge breasts the result, the taste level is at least questionnable. A friend, who works in marketing, told me that to her it looks like "a perpetual garden party for callgirls". These images are then injected into Instagram, Pinterest and what have you to create demand for the containerloads of polyester stuff that just hit our shores.

So, I suppose the fashion revolution, once "owned" by the young has become a system. Compare it to fast food, where you can "tap in your order" on a screen these days and can "ad any choice", as long as it is a burger!


Cheers, have a great day, Hendrick

[Schneiderfrei]

I call them "Wal-Martians" 

Brilliant!

[Steelmillal]

I call them "Wal-Martians" 

We call them Cousins

[jruley]

We call them Cousins

"If your family tree runs straight up and down — you might be a redneck..."

[Steelmillal]

I can honestly say, "Hi! My name is AL; this is my brother Steve and my other brother Steve." https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YTE8QjCw2U

Everything has been done to death. Even jeans. It seems hard to come up with anything new. Younger people like something never done before. Each generation wants to leave its own mark. I wonder what will grab their attention next.

It's also the 30-year generation swing. Lack of what came before allows most everything to be recycled/reset.

[Hendrick]

"Trust it to be something that brings in the most cash the fasted!", but I meant "fastest"

[Schneiderfrei]

We call them Cousins

        

[Steelmillal]

the most cash the fasted!", but I meant "fastest"

Da Guinness is getting the basted of Hendrick 

Don't forget styling..

Timeless style should be bedrock IMHO. But is that simply good balance? I always default to fit by way of ease and cut. It may simply follow, and I'm spitballing, that the artisan skill that most accurately accents the body with balance AND time cheats is the art we seek to streamline to compete with ready-made. I just bought a vintage Ike jacket from 1967 that has the most amazing sleeve fit, for ME. The coat body is too small, but the sleeve will be dissected and captured for future use.

That's right. Bogans = "An uncouth or unsophisticated person regarded as being of low social status."

Still looking for k-leather cheap 

[Greger]

Fashion interest is so short and it takes so long for Mass-production which leaves a huge chance of buyers are not interested when it hits the shelves and racks.
Styles are more steady and profitable. Except, it seems people lost interest in styles.
What is the answer?

[Hendrick]

Fashion interest is so short and it takes so long for Mass-production which leaves a huge chance of buyers are not interested when it hits the shelves and racks.
Styles are more steady and profitable. Except, it seems people lost interest in styles.
What is the answer?

No one knows... But, the length of suppy lines has increased multiple times over, say, the last 30 to 40 years. But profit margins have also massively increased, at least here in the olde worlde... When in my first job, the multiplier in retail was x2. The came VAT, it went to x2,2. Soon to become 2,5 early 80's. Nowadays x2,75 is a minimum and rising. Retailers aim for x3 to x3,5 on private label goods... The increase has mainly to do with the costs of goods unsold, or sold at reduced prices. So, the full price consumer pays top for unsold and discounted merch. All this means that on branded goods, over the whole distribution line (including wholesale margins), a consumer pays 6 to 8x the initial cost of goods.

France, Germany and Italy had huge "fast fashion" systems in the past. Supply lines were incredibly direct, and weekly input came directly from the retailer. In fact, their orders were more or less sold before they were delivered. Clearly this was also a boon for local textile industries. Our "outsourcing" mentality has become a form of economic prostitution and only now we are starting to realise that with sharing knowledge, we also share wealth...

We know that many of the asian fast fashion products are damaging (lead, chemicals etc.) and impossible to recycle, yet our markets are open for these products. Regulations in Europe are very stringeant. There are campaigns against the use of plain sugar (...), a bottle of liquor costs the equivalent of 25 usd. and a pack of cigarettes 15, mostly through taxes. All for our "protection". So maybe it is time to have a look at other imports as well.

Cheers, Hendrick