Men's Trouser Fit Check

[posaune]

Yes, I would draft with smaller hip value at the back than in the front    1 cm more in front and - 1 cm in back. You shove your body into front.
You can do this if you have enough s.a. in the back crotch seam
That's one of the reasons to have about 4 cm s.a. at back crotch seam at the waist tapper to 1 cm where the curve starts.
lg
posaune

[Henry Hall]

The new pattern won't be bigger than the ones already cut.

[peterle]

You can also just pin posaune´s wedge to see the effect.

In any case the lower inlay at your back seam will influence the appearence of the back seam, because it will pull. when you look at posaune´s sketch, you can see the wider inlay at the back seam starts at the curve and not below.

[jruley]

You can also just pin posaune´s wedge to see the effect.

Here is the fit with a 3/4" wedge pinned out:









For comparison, here is the fit with no wedge and the waistband lowered 3/4" at CB, tapered to nothing at the side seams:









Thoughts?

[jruley]

Same as last set, but with some of the surplus material taken out of the crotch seam:

[peterle]

I think the version with the pinned wedge hangs more balanced than the other version.(especially to be seen at calf level and the hems don´t cling to the heels)
In the pinned version it is obvious that the undersides are yet too wide.   You can remove the superflous width at the crease line by pinning or basting to get an impression.

[jruley]

OK, so let's go with the wedge then.
Here is the pattern change I made to remove the wedge.  Blue = old, red = new.  I did not attempt to reduce the back width in the same step, because I'm not sure where it needs to come out:



I ripped the trousers apart down to the knees and pressed the upper backs flat.  I marked the new edges, put back the darts at the new locations, and reassembled the trousers.  Here is the result.  Obviously there is still some looseness in the back - should it be removed at the side seam or the crotch?

[peterle]

Is there a lot of inlay in the seat seam especially in the curve area? maybe it is pulling?

in my eyes you could move the fork point about 2 cm inwards. then use the paper pattern as a template and redraw the seat line pivoting the pattern at the waist and aiming to the new fork point.
do the same with the inseam pivoting at the hem.

[jruley]

Is there a lot of inlay in the seat seam especially in the curve area? maybe it is pulling?

The pattern picture shows the extent of the inlay (the pink area beyond the marked seat seam).

in my eyes you could move the fork point about 2 cm inwards. then use the paper pattern as a template and redraw the seat line pivoting the pattern at the waist and aiming to the new fork point.
do the same with the inseam pivoting at the hem.

I will give that a try.  Obviously the seat inlay will need to be reduced in the new curve.

[Thom Bennett]

Stretching the inlay with your iron will help it sit down nicely, not sure if it is sitting up inside.

[jruley]

Here is peterle's proposed alteration (green lines), if I understand correctly.

[jruley]

So here we are with the alteration shown in the last post (#40).   I followed Tom's advice and stretched the fork inlay after marking the new seat seam line.

Obviously this is much better in the seat.

[peterle]

I think it´s better now.

In this pics you wear the trousers a bit lower at the left hip, what you didn´t in most of the other posts. Maybe that´s why there are folds at the left leg? You could take some balance measures to identify a high/low hip.

Will the topsides be a bit too tight at the hips when you close the fly line? That could cause gaping pockets. would be nice to see some pics with bent forearms to see the run of the side seam tops.

[jruley]

In this pics you wear the trousers a bit lower at the left hip, what you didn´t in most of the other posts. Maybe that´s why there are folds at the left leg? You could take some balance measures to identify a high/low hip.

My left hip is probably a little lower/smaller (see posts #1 and #22). 

Will the topsides be a bit too tight at the hips when you close the fly line? That could cause gaping pockets.

Assuming that is the case - is the cure more width in the fronts at the side seams?

[peterle]

The left leg side seam looks ok to me. The right top side side seam could probably need a bit more width at the hip. just open the side seam from the waistline downwards a bit over the fork line keeping the waistband attached, and look how much it is gaping (if any).

Please take balance measurements for the hips. the pics arn´t trustworthy enough, because you wear the trousers differently. In classical trousers the waistline seam should sit on top of your hip bones, the waistband above. measure the distances of both hip bones to the floor, and compare to be sure.