1959 Rundschau jacket drafting

[TTailor]

I recall seeing the Rundschau 1959 jacket draft on the T&C site years ago and wondered if someone has it and could post it here.
I remember seeing the step by step in German, no english translation, as well as an English translation.
I'd be interested in having the original available.

[jeffrey]

Hi Terri
I found this here on this forum. I also have a PDF of the Rundschau system that was on cutter and tailor but will not be able to post or send to you until tonight.
Hope this helps.

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=171.0

[jeffrey]

So sorry. I just realized the link I posted is for a 1969 draft. I do however have a PDF of the 1959 draft on my computer at home and can send it tonight.

[jeffrey]

And thank you to Peterle for posting the 1969 draft!

[jeffrey]

Sorry for so many posts but I think I found it.

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2241&page=1

And for the sleeves.

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=494#entry32225

I think a link to the collar draft is within one of these topics

[TTailor]

Yes, thanks, that is the version I am after, but I would like to have the original text and instructions in German if at all possible.

[jeffrey]

Will look tonight. Hopefully I can find it.

[peterle]

This step by step series  you are after is from "Der Zuschnitt für die Herrenschneiderei XVI" around 1959.
There is a similar if not the same articel in "Der Zuschnitt für die Herrenschneiderei XVII"  I own wich is from 1965. When Jeffry doesn´t find the original one it I could scan it.

[jeffrey]

Hi Terri,
I have looked through my pdf files and I do not have the draft in German. I'm not sure that it was included with Sator's post.
so sorry I was hoping to help. Hopefully Peterle's scan will work for you.

[TTailor]

I seem to remember that the full text was posted on T&C early on, then there was a translation.
Hmmm,
So maybe someone can give me the proportional reference for the hip pocket placement. In the draftt it is 7.5 cm below the waistline,dropping another cm toward the front, but there is a formula, and I think I remember it as 1/16 height minus 2 cm to set the hip pocket placement from the waist , but I cannot remember for sure.
Many thanks for searching!

[Henry Hall]

Further down in the same post, on the 1969 version there is this formula:

Height of Side Pockets

H-Ta = 1/10 half height - 2.5 cm
(All dependent on height, and proportions)
= ca. 6 cm, 1 cm more at the front. Draw pocket line

There doesn't seem to be the same for the 1959 one.

[posaune]

in the XVI edition (and it is seems to be the same as Sator posted) it is  at front 8.5 depth and at line At-H -G) 7.5 from waist down. No formula in this edition.
lg
posaune

[peterle]

In the XVII edition H-Ta is 7,75cm and 1cm more at the front end. No formula either. In my publications it stays the same from 1958 to at least 1966: H-Ta is 7,5 or 8cm, no formula.
The reference body heigth is usually 176cm.

[TTailor]

Well that is odd, because I remember a proportion being mentioned and all I can remember is it was x minus 2 cm. maybe it was 1/10 half height minus 2 cm.
That doesn't work for the 1959 draft sample given of 176 cm height though which works out to 8.8-2=6.8

When you are drafting for someone who is 6'5 or 195cm obviously all the proportions need to be considered.

In the work I do, that kind of information is very useful as I am adjusting for different periods and styles as well as for a variety of body shape and size.

Thank you all for searching!
If anyone does have the full draft, not just the English translation, perhaps it would be an idea to post it here.

[peterle]

This is the article from edition XVII: