Women's Pants toile fit check

[posaune]

Yes. (And yes,  I know it  is a bit overdrive and practical nonsense - you can't cut as exact or draft with a pencil)  But one mistakes adds up to another). If I add 1.5 cm to the crotch tip  (Blue)and then go down for 0.8 cm (red) the result would look like this:

[jruley]

Here the back inseam has been shorted from crotch to knee line as directed:






I think the seat does fit cleaner.  And the extra material at high hip may have helped the tension while seated:



Other than the second darts to reduce the side seam curvature, what other changes do you recommend?

[spookietoo]

I believe posaune mentioned a high left hip earlier. This looks to still be a bit of an issue, has an adjustment been made for this? 

[jruley]

I believe posaune mentioned a high left hip earlier. This looks to still be a bit of an issue, has an adjustment been made for this? 

No, I have not made any left vs. right adjustments yet.  Part of this effect is the way she stands, the knees are not bent the same.  She has a lot of knee trouble and is not comfortable standing straight, even long enough for the photos.

[spookietoo]

That's all quite understandable, I've a bit of the same problem myself.

Even given that issue, her left hip still seems fuller than her right at a higher point. The diagonal lines that are left at this point seem to be emanating from that high hip point. I could obviously be wrong - but I'm just wondering out loud, I think.

Other than that, the fit is looking very good!

[hutch--]

Jim,

From the photos, its only the fabric that is messing the fit up a bit, once you are out of the mock up and working with a decent fabric for trousers/slacks you will find that the fit will be a lot better as it will "fall" better and be a lot less prone to wrinkling. One factor is its almost impossible for a person to stand exactly straight for a photo, slight posture changes, uneven floors etc ....

I will be interested to see that finished garment if your better half does not mind doing the modelling.

[posaune]

I can't add an image. Sorrry this was shear dumb from my side

we see now at the back still the drags from knee into the back crotch. And the dip from hipline at CB - at high hip line the situation has more relaxed.
So I would let out another 05. cm at back crotch tip (This can be: (maybe) at the same time pin out that length under the back waist band CB taper to nothing at side seam.)
yes, the left hip is higher and fuller. The little surplus fabric vertical (back) at the right side is at the left side slanted: here you need length. You can set this side higher without her modelling I think 1 - 1.5 cm.  You can  try to scoop a little bit more out between hip line to crotch - maybe 0.5 too. It is not much now.
lg
posaune

[jruley]

yes, the left hip is higher and fuller. The little surplus fabric vertical (back) at the right side is at the left side slanted: here you need length. You can set this side higher without her modelling I think 1 - 1.5 cm. 

So the extra length on the left side is needed between the crotch line and knee?  Should length be added to both seams, or only the outside seam (like a wedge)?

You can  try to scoop a little bit more out between hip line to crotch - maybe 0.5 too. It is not much now.

Is this for both sides, or only the left side?

[posaune]

No it is needed under the waist band. Waistband is like an Anchor - pulling all up.



At Back crotch both sides
lg
posaune

[jruley]

Now presenting toile #4, which rolls up all the changes.  I have added the second dart front and back, and increased the length on the left side.

Pattern (front laid on back):



Back by itself:



Front and back (dashed line at top is the right side):



Here's how they fit:

[posaune]

better. Repeat. In the aera I marked at back crotch, sew a bit deeper. where there is the curve. do it in 3  mm increments with big stitches. If good repeat.
lg
posaune

[jruley]

Here's a little more taken out of the crotch curve, and the waistband lowered slightly at CB (which I forgot to change in the pattern).

It seems the seat has gotten messier, maybe I took out of the curve in the wrong place?

[posaune]

It is better at crotch line but worse at hip line. Pin the excess you see at the back crotch hipline and sew it out. The curve may be not adequat enough. Look that it is fluent. Your wife has her hips higher as the hip line maybe centered between the high hip and hipline. See side view.
Start pinning out a vertical fold at center back (crease) leg starting slowly under hip line going down. From crotch line maybe 1 cm till to the hem .
lg
posaune

[jruley]

OK.  I had her put the toile on inside out so I could easily pin out the excess along the back seam.  Of course the two sides are different but I thought it would make little difference in the middle.  Then I re-sewed the seam and she put them on right side out:









The excess above the hip line is gone, but now there is a vertical rope on the left side:



Does this mean we need more out of the fork area, or is it something else?

[posaune]

Now there is too much width here  - she does not need this. So pin it out along the crease down to the hem. I wrote about that this will be happen in former mails.



After this you can start with a usable (cheap) fabric. Please dress with the iron the pants at inseam and back crotch like you would with a man's pants. Even it is cotton.
Now you'll have to fight with the fabric factor.
lg
posaune