Women's Pants toile fit check

[theresa in tucson]

J, the Pants For Real People is the later edition of Pants For Every Body and more comprehensive. 

[jruley]

Measure the thighs circ at their widest part and compare it to the pants leg. Mostly about 8  - 10 cm from crotch down. The trouser should have at least 4 cm more at this place.

Her thigh measures 68 cm at the indicated height, the toile is only 70 cm.  So does this mean more ease at both the knees and hips is needed?

[posaune]

yep. I would made each seam wider- it is not much - 0.5 cm per seam.  And you can pin it out later down to the hem if you do not want it. Measure over the knees too. When she sits there is place which needs attention.
I would do this first. And look how the fit has changed. This way she gets more crotch diameter anyway.
How does she likes her pants? I think the hem circ is nice for her.
lg
posaune

[jruley]

OK, I let out the inside and outside leg seams 1/4".  I sloped this into the existing seam at the waist and hem.  No changes to front or back seam at this time.

She does like the hem width as is.









There is still some bunching up when seated, but she says they are more comfortable:

[posaune]

Sorry, did not see your progress. The width in all looks okay for me. The front starts to get too wide. Take away 0.5 cm from the front  crotch tip to knee and add it to the back crotch.
Measure her tights when sitting. Is it larger than standing?
Now look at the back see that horizontal fold under the waist band?
The pants wants to go up but the waist band is too tight.
Cut your wife a formed waistband. For her small waist it is the better way and the back can go up.
for the front waist straight horizontl to side seam then from side seam to CB up 3-4 cm. the upper seam willl be som cm smaller than the lower.
lg
posaune

[theresa in tucson]

J, one tip for women of a certain age (I fall into that category) is to place a tape measure around the hips snug enough that it does not slip, have the person sit down onto a hard chair and allow the tape measure to expand for sitting.  You should now have a measurement with the minimum adequate ease for the pants.  Fat spreads and as we get older, we accumulate a bit more.

[jruley]

Thanks posaune and theresa for your latest tips.

I made a new pattern and toile incorporating all changes.  Here is the pattern.

Front on top of back:



Back by itself:


Front in closing position on back at crotch:


The new curved waistband:


And here she is wearing the toile:









Overall she likes the fit.  I think the curved waistband was especially helpful.  There is still some messiness while seated:

[posaune]

Good. There is now a bit too much fabric over the back. This we tackle last.
First you have to address her hip curve. Look at the back and your back pattern side. You have on the pattern your most outgoing at the hip line. Thet is not the case with your wife. Look at the high hip line. See it starts to curve in for waist maybe after 1/2 of the distance to waist.
The hip curve of your pattern should look a bit like this. Careful: It has to run smoothly over the caving in between hip and high hip - so make it a gentle - not so sharp curved as the front pattern now is. As she has a hanging side you have to do each side etxra. I would open the darts before doing this because it needs to be new pinned afterwards anyway. Her waist intake will be very steep for a short distance after the alteration  so maybe you should work with a second short dart in back (and front). In back the dart points to the highest point and parallel to the crotch seam (The second in center between side and  main dart). In front it sits between belly start and hip bone parallel to side seam.
Sitting: It seems to me it is because she spreads under the waist - it looks tight. But not seeing her in person I can only guess.  Open the fly, let her sit down and look if it is better then. (In this case this figure type is well served with a pleated front pants or 1-1.5 cm more ease in the front pattern). But if you give her more fabric for the high hip it may be gone.
lg
posaune

[jruley]

The hip curve of your pattern should look a bit like this.

Was there a diagram?  It would be very helpful.

Thanks,

Jim

[posaune]

I give you one. But you will be more succesfull, when you open the seam while she wears the pants. The seam will spread where there is pressure on the cloth and open up the amount it needs.
lg
posaune

[jruley]

Thank you.  I was not able to make all the changes (no second darts) without recutting the toile.

I let out the side seams of the back above the hip line, curving to the original location at the waist.  Basically I matched the curve of the front piece.  Of course you are right that this is too much in a small space, and it would be especially a problem with side pockets.  I can see how the second dart in front and back will allow a much less pronounced curve.

I also re-did the back darts to make them more parallel to the crotch seam.

Here is the result.  Both sides are still the same for now:

[posaune]

now next step. Back: You see the back inner seam is pulled up into crotch.
And a little surplus shows under the butt.

Looking at your pattern I see that both pattern end at the Gesaessline.
I attach an original Leena draft. note the back is about nearly 1 cm less than the front. You have to recut the back.
You sew from hem till  knee and then stretch the back seam while sewing so that it meets at crotch. This will give more room for the butt and less fabric under it. It is partly what you do with an iron.

[jruley]

Looking at your pattern I see that both pattern end at the Gesaessline.
I attach an original Leena draft. note the back is about nearly 1 cm less than the front. You have to recut the back.

Actually the back fork is lower, or anyway it was in the first draft before I started making changes.  But evidently not low enough.  Also extending the back fork has made the inseam of back longer from crotch to knee.  So, I will drop the back fork point more as suggested.

[posaune]

Hi Jim,
to prevent such mistakes you use your measure band. Lay it on the knee notch, hold it down with one finger, put a pencil tip into the little hole at the begin and start to draft an arc over the crotch tip. Then measure your extension (here 1.5 cm) from old crotchtip to the new point at the arc.
lg
posaune

[jruley]

Hi Jim,
to prevent such mistakes you use your measure band. Lay it on the knee notch, hold it down with one finger, put a pencil tip into the little hole at the begin and start to draft an arc over the crotch tip. Then measure your extension (here 1.5 cm) from old crotchtip to the new point at the arc.
lg
posaune

I see.  But - if you want to have to stretch the back side, you need to make it shorter, not the same radius.  Right?