A Torso Line shirt

[jruley]

Here the collar has been cut down to the same profile as the old blue shirt.  The left sleeve seam has been hollowed 5/8" at the height of the elbow as peterle suggested:














Any further ideas before I make one in finish fabric?

[Schneiderfrei]

I think there really is an issue at the left back shoulder.  I believe after this much work you would not be happy to leave that untouched.

[jruley]

I think there really is an issue at the left back shoulder.  I believe after this much work you would not be happy to leave that untouched.

Can you be more specific?  You think it's too wide?

These last shots were taken with no T-shirt, I'm wondering if that made a change...

[peterle]

My idea for the collar: It looks a bit clumsy. You could redraw the outer edge with a slightly hollowed curved line. This would look a bit more elegant.

The front pleat at the cuff is wrong. all the pleats should be between the center line and placket (exept when you are after a buccaneer style). you can take the center line for the visible edge of the first pleat. ( the pleats act as a dart to take in the wideness of the elbow. That´s why they are located more at the back.)

When there is not enough room between center line and placket to handle all the superfluos width, shift the placket a bit towards the sleeve seam.

[Schneiderfrei]

What I mean is that big diagonal fold running from the right shoulder point, right across to the CB waist with arms down and to the CB hip with arms up.

It even seems to involve the sleeve; the back scye has excess cloth, especially in the back bodice itself.

[jruley]

Here we have a new right sleeve with finished cuff.  Length is 3/8" more than the left sleeve, less fullness at the cuff and the pleats have been re-worked as peterle suggested:

[jruley]

What I mean is that big diagonal fold running from the right shoulder point, right across to the CB waist with arms down and to the CB hip with arms up.

It even seems to involve the sleeve; the back scye has excess cloth, especially in the back bodice itself.

Peterle pointed out in post #105 that this seems to come and go.  I'm not sure what can be done about it, but I'm open to suggestions.

[posaune]

I second Peterle's suggestion.  I think it has to do with the back armhole curve/front armhole curve  - and because this muslin fabric is stretching it makes no sense to fix it now.
I like the style of the right sleeve.
I see 3 issues: When you look at front in height of the overarm bone (do not know the english word)  you see this bone head is protruding. Now there is some  length and width needed in my opinion in  both sleeve cap and armhole. In the back we see too much fabric in the back sleeve cap . I think to much curve in the cap here.  And of course there could be a bit more cap height but his would mean a smaller but longer cap (tighter) or a cap with more ease.

lg posaune

[jruley]

Here is a finished shirt made from the last pattern.  This is worn over a close-fitting T-shirt and tucked into the trousers, as intended (but not as fitted):













The shirt looks and feels too tight, and restricts movement, especially when the arms are raised.  Material is a cheap poly/cotton broadcloth from the now defunct Hancock Fabrics chain.  Compared to the muslin mockup this has no stretch at all, which I think is contributing to the tightness.

I think arm motion might be freer with a more traditional sleeve with a lower cap height.  However, this body is also too tight for me, so I think the next step should be to develop a more classically fitting pattern by grading this up a size.

Comments?

[Henry Hall]

Nice bold colour Jim. Whatever issues there are to be noted (and I'll leave that to the people who guided this) the finished shirt does rather a lot to disguise the body imbalances. I like it.

[peterle]

Really a nice colour, Jim.

I do recognize some issues we had in the toile too, like a bit tight across the front chest.

But the diagonal folds at the fronts from sideseam towards the CF are completely new. Is the material sticking to the t-shirt? Or not tucked in carefully? We should be sure about this before the pattern gets changed.
I´d love some pics without -shirt.

[Greger]

If you grad the shirt, just do the front.
The sleeves doesn't look right, either.

[jruley]

Here is the shirt worn on the skin.  For thoroughness' sake here it is shown untucked:













And now tucked in:













Some of the issues are due to the T-shirt, but there is a bunch of wrinkles on the right front that was not present on the mockup.

This is too close fitting for practical wear, so I am less worried about rescuing it than working out the way forward for a new one.  Thanks everyone for your compliments and help.