sewing pleats

[posaune]

I have to sew a "Trachtenhemd". This is a shirt with pleats in the front. I''ll use the bamboo linen from Acorn I bought recently. I need some foolproof tips for sewing the pleats very accurat (and fast). I'll have to deliver Friday.
Normaly I first iron the pleats, sew them and then cut the pattern out. These pleats are only sewn half way down to the front. No marking is possible.
Any advices??
lg
posaune

[theresa in tucson]

Is this anything like a "pintuck" where you could use a pintuck foot and a double needle?

[posaune]

no Theresa, sadly, its pleats


4 on each side, 0.5 the depth and 32 cm length. In centerfront there is another (double??) pleat. The facing of the button stand is sewed on extra.
lg
posaune

[jruley]

No marking is possible.
Any advices??
lg
posaune

What about marking with wax chalk, which will disappear when the pleats are ironed?

[peterle]

I hope it´s not too late.

Usually in Trachtenhemden, the Riegel (=bar) covers the end of the pleats and the placket.

You can cut the slash and mark the fold lines by creasing striclty on the grain. should be easy in linen. You can also mark the pleats by pulling a warp thread (=Fadenziehen). This will be invisible after the sewing.

[posaune]

I have finished. Getting chickens, I reduced it to 4 pleats. I started with insetting the buttonstand. To find the grain I pulled a thread to the button stand length (thank you Peterle) at center. Then I marked with pins the pleats first right from button stand then left and ironed them. Sewed them. They came out equal. I did cut my bar so that it covers the ends of button stand and pleats. Looks good.
The fabric was a dream to work with.
I'll do a blouse for me from the same fabric - setting in some lace. I've read in Threads that you shall put it in the drier with towels for a nice surface. I'll try this.
lg
posaune