A Torso Line shirt

[peterle]

I´m not terribly sure about the fold in the back. It comes and goes.

One aspect is probably the grain of the back. Does your grain follow the black center line? The grain should be strictly vertical, perpendicular to the yoke seam to avoid some twisting.

The other aspect is, your right arm/shoulder lies more to the back than the left. Thus the arm pulls the armhole backwards. In the last picture you can see a fold at the front armhole, caused by pulling. The superfluous width in the back forms the long fold. To verify this theory, force your right shoulder forward wearing the toile and look what happens.


BTW: Why didn´t you rotate the right sleeve like the left?

[posaune]

I think the Tee shoot the clean neck fit and enhanced the fault at the armhole.
I suggest you should stay during the fitting with No Tee.
Afterwards with adding ease you can have a Tee underneath.
lg
posaune

[jruley]

One aspect is probably the grain of the back. Does your grain follow the black center line? The grain should be strictly vertical, perpendicular to the yoke seam to avoid some twisting.

The grain is vertical.  The black line is the skewed centerline from the sloper draft and is just there for reference.

The other aspect is, your right arm/shoulder lies more to the back than the left. Thus the arm pulls the armhole backwards. In the last picture you can see a fold at the front armhole, caused by pulling. The superfluous width in the back forms the long fold. To verify this theory, force your right shoulder forward wearing the toile and look what happens.

Will have to give that a try.

BTW: Why didn´t you rotate the right sleeve like the left?

The rotation is actually there.  Look carefully at post #103 where I drafted the new sleeve pattern.  The new centerline is drawn to meet the black line on the shoulder (old sleeve seam) with the sleeve rotated.  It has nothing to do with the old centerline.
If you look carefully at the left sleeve you can see a faint crease mark running from the shoulder seam to cuff.  This is where I folded the left sleeve to make the new pattern, and is the same location as the black centerline on the right sleeve.

I think the Tee shoot the clean neck fit and enhanced the fault at the armhole.
I suggest you should stay during the fitting with No Tee.
Afterwards with adding ease you can have a Tee underneath.
lg
posaune

I was planning on making a fitted shirt straight off this pattern.  When I add ease, I will make a more casual style, probably with a plain back or pleats at the shoulder blades.
So if this tee is still a problem maybe I should try a sleeveless one?

[jruley]

Here I have added a collar leaf and new left sleeve with finished cuff.  The collar is from the draft peterle posted in #54.  It seems oversized to me, but I added 1/4" seams all around - maybe they were included in the draft?

The cuff size was taken from the old blue shirt since it seems to fit well at the wrist.  Double pleats were added using the method in my pattern book.  I think I would like the sleeve just a little longer.

BTW this is over the same T-shirt worn in the last set.

[peterle]

The collar is too big. Maybe you made a mistake in calculating inch/cm. Maybe you can find a metric ruler, should not be a problem in the US.

I think You shouldn´t make the sleeve  a lot longer. When you spread the thumb, the edge of the cuff should reach the spot, where the thumb connects to the hand.
The pleats should be as near as possible to the placket. How far is the placket slash from the back seam?

In my eyes, the sleeve seam could be hollowed a bit ( make the sleeve seam lines a bit, let´s say 1-1,5cm concave instead of straight), this would shape the sleeve a bit.

[jruley]

The collar is too big. Maybe you made a mistake in calculating inch/cm. Maybe you can find a metric ruler, should not be a problem in the US.

Actually I used the metric side of a tape measure to lay it out.  Does the draft you posted include seam allowance, and if so, how much?

I think You shouldn´t make the sleeve  a lot longer. When you spread the thumb, the edge of the cuff should reach the spot, where the thumb connects to the hand.

I was thinking only 1/2" longer or so.  I like my cuffs not to ride up the arm when I extend it horizontally.

The pleats should be as near as possible to the placket. How far is the placket slash from the back seam?

The slash is halfway between the sleeve centerline and seam.  This is what the pattern book recommended.  The pleats are pretty deep, so maybe I should narrow the cuff width a bit.

In my eyes, the sleeve seam could be hollowed a bit ( make the sleeve seam lines a bit, let´s say 1-1,5cm concave instead of straight), this would shape the sleeve a bit.

Where would you put the deepest point of the hollow, at the elbow line?

[posaune]

Jim, that could not be.
The stand is about 3 cm and the collar is 4 cm at CB. It should cover the stand but not touch the back.
lg
posaune

[jruley]

The stand is about 3 cm and the collar is 4 cm at CB. It should cover the stand but not touch the back.
lg
posaune

The numbers are 4 and 5, or are you deducting seams?

Anyway if the fall is 1cm deeper than the stand, why wouldn't it touch the back?

[posaune]

Sorry about my mistake - old head.  The fall rises up from the stand, needs for this let's assume 3 mm bends over the stand another 3 mm  (depends on how thick (Interfacing+ 2 layer of fabric) it is) and falls down (over the 3 mm). This process has used 9 mm from the fall and let 4.1 mm left as is the measure of the stand.  So the fall just hides the seam of the stand.  If the fall is larger you get folds as you have.
lg
posaune

[Henry Hall]

The collar doesn't have to be a bother. As long as you've ascertained the correct circumference for fitting the stand (as you already have done) the length and shape of the points are merely cosmetic changes.

[jruley]

The collar doesn't have to be a bother. As long as you've ascertained the correct circumference for fitting the stand (as you already have done) the length and shape of the points are merely cosmetic changes.

True.  I just wanted to find out (for future reference) if the collar draft peterle posted included seam allowance.  That question still hasn't been answered, or I missed it.

The dummy collar and stand are each cut from a single thickness of canvas drill, so the finished collar may fold a bit differently.

[posaune]

No seam allowance
lg
posaune

[Henry Hall]

No seam allowance
lg
posaune

Are you certain? If there isn't then the collar is huge!

Maybe it is not set far enough into the stand? The point shape is distinctly 1970s and they're goung to have to be altered for personal preference.

[posaune]

I'm sure. The whole drafting of "Waesche" (means shirts and underwear, sleeping wear) is without s.a. And this is good!!!
The collar is not so big. My biggest is a (modern) Kent collar.

[peterle]

I´m pretty sure the draft is without sa.
First it is a shirt and as posaune wrote, shirts usually are drafted without sa in german publications.
Second, when drafted with sa, usually 0,75cm, the stand would be only 2,5cm wide, and the overlap at CF would be only 1cm.

But you´r right, 4cm for the collar stand is on the wider side. I prefer 3,5cm as well.