A Torso Line shirt

[Henry Hall]

I prefer one with sleeves for under a shirt for the winter.  All my t-shirts undershirts are close fit with high armholes, so I've never had a problem wearing a fitted shirt over them.

In the case of this thread, you need to make the kind of shirt that will fit over what you will most likely wear under it. I routinely wear the same sort of under-shirts (and replace them with the same) so I know they will fit under the shirts I wear.

[Schneiderfrei]

In Australia they are called 'singlets', in Britain I think it might be 'vest'.

[Henry Hall]

In Australia they are called 'singlets', in Britain I think it might be 'vest'.

It certainly is, but singlet is used too.

[jruley]

In the case of this thread, you need to make the kind of shirt that will fit over what you will most likely wear under it.

Just for comparison's sake, here I am wearing one of my current "dress shirts".  This is an OTR 15-1/2 neck, 34/35 sleeve:













This is loose fitting enough that the T-shirt doesn't affect the fit.  None of my current shirts are more fitted than this; some are much looser.  So I simply haven't had to consider the effect of undergarments in the past, unless I wore two shirts.

[jruley]

In Australia they are called 'singlets', in Britain I think it might be 'vest'.

In America "vest" means a waistcoat.

They say British and Americans are two peoples divided by a common language...

[Greger]

Deep armholes in undergarments also affects coats. Deeper armholes are not a blessing, except if you are really old. Coats should rule, because they are more expensive and far more work. T-shirts, maybe it is best to make them.

[peterle]

So, looking at the photos with no T-shirt, what remaining problems do you see?

One problem I see is the gaping button stand. it is caused by a too high front neck hole. In the profile pic you can see the neck hole is about 1-1,5 cm too high at center front.
Shift the front neck hole line downwards for this amount. The collar band will have to be elongated too.(there is inlay at the center back).

For the sleeves, I think you could make the sleeve cap a tad higher by scooping out the lower curves by about 1,5cm. this will hopefully eat up a bit of the superfluous lenght at the inside of the upper arm.

[jruley]

One problem I see is the gaping button stand. it is caused by a too high front neck hole. In the profile pic you can see the neck hole is about 1-1,5 cm too high at center front.
Shift the front neck hole line downwards for this amount. The collar band will have to be elongated too.(there is inlay at the center back).

OK.

For the sleeves, I think you could make the sleeve cap a tad higher by scooping out the lower curves by about 1,5cm. this will hopefully eat up a bit of the superfluous lenght at the inside of the upper arm.

Is this needed in front and back, or only in front?  I don't want to reduce the cap width as it is quite tight around the arm already.

I would like to relocate the sleeve seam so it lines up with the body side seam.  Is there any reason not to do this?

[Henry Hall]

Is this garment for an immobile mannequin then? I gather it is a shirt; attempting to remove every last sign of a wrinkle seems to me like sweeping up leaves in a strong wind.

[Schneiderfrei]

jruley I once attempted to gain a licence to practice physiotherapy in the state of Oregon.  One of the "hoops" I had to jump through was to have an Australian government official verify that English was the national language of Australia.

I wanted (badly) to provide the Oregon registration board with a map of the known world showing English speaking nations and those that spoke English-related languages such as American.

[jruley]

One of the "hoops" I had to jump through was to have an Australian government official verify that English was the national language of Australia.

So, how'd you make out with that one?

[jruley]

Is this garment for an immobile mannequin then? I gather it is a shirt; attempting to remove every last sign of a wrinkle seems to me like sweeping up leaves in a strong wind.

It is true that (except for the high buttoning point at neck) this already fits better than any shirt I own.

There is more to this than making a shirt, however.  The idea is to create the best fitting garment possible, at least within reason.  This tight fit can then be relaxed to create more practical styles of shirts without losing the shape of my body.  It can also be manipulated to add appropriate shaping and east to create vest and jacket patterns which will also conform to the body shape.

[jeffrey]

I think the neck line on your toile looks great!!!
Maybe peterle means the neckline on the blue shirt?

[jruley]

I think the neck line on your toile looks great!!!
Maybe peterle means the neckline on the blue shirt?

I am quite sure he means the toile.  The blue shirt is an off-the-rack one, shown for comparison only.  It has nothing to do with this pattern.

[Schneiderfrei]

I got a job in Canada instead.  Lived on Vancouver Island 2 years then Pitt Meadows.  Studied out of Edmonds WA.  Was a great experience.