A Torso Line shirt

[jruley]

There are strange things going on on both armholes. I hope this is due to a big and sticky black t-shirt with wide sleeves?

Yes, that was the problem.

Here it is with the front darts removed, and the deepest point of side and back darts moved about 1" above the red horizontal line.  Rather than add more shape at the sides I returned to the original button line.  Don't get hung up on the short neck line, it will be easy to just cut it slightly larger all around to make the length agree with the collar band.

So, without the front darts - do I need more front width or not?

[peterle]

Yes, you do need more front width. It looks so much more relaxed in the black t-shirt set of pics. neckhole and chest look so very much better and I´m sure you can add another 1/4-3/8".

1" is not enough. the true waist looks to be at least the same amount above the red line, than the red line is above the black line.

[jruley]

In my opinion, you can't have a tight fitting garment and wear a T-shirt under it. A tight fit garment has a high cut armhole - a T-Shirt not! And this varies from brand to brand.

Maybe it's different in Europe, but here in the backward, conservative Midwest shirts for business use are always worn over some kind of undershirt.  This is not to say my T-shirts are the right size .   I may have to get some smaller ones, or alter the sleeves...

[jruley]

OK, I moved the buttons over 1/4" and used the outer set of holes.  So a total of 5/8" has been added to the front compared to the last set.  Also took slightly deeper darts on the sides, a bit higher up.

This feels much better:

[peterle]

Ohno! It´s much too wide now! I cant see your nipples anymore! 

This feels much better:

Yes, and it looks better. Interestingly your neck hole drifts to the left side. Is this due to the t-shirt es well or does it drift because it has the freedom now to do so?

[jruley]

Interestingly your neck hole drifts to the left side. Is this due to the t-shirt es well or does it drift because it has the freedom now to do so?

My guess is it's because I moved the buttonholes 3/8" but only moved the buttons 1/4".  So, I will now carefully sew the holes closed, make new ones 2mm further over, and put on a small extension so I can move the buttons a corresponding amount.

I could do that, but I think a better use of my time would be a new toile with the extra front width, the darts converted to a real paneled back, the hem extended to finished length and shape, and a collar band...

[jruley]

As promised, here is a new toile with the shaping incorporated and a collar band attached:

[jruley]

And before peterle asks:  Here are the new pattern pieces.





Curved seam lines in the front were marked on the pattern, but not cut.

Inlays on the fronts are folded to reinforce the buttons and holes.

[Henry Hall]

In my opinion, you can't have a tight fitting garment and wear a T-shirt under it. A tight fit garment has a high cut armhole - a T-Shirt not! And this varies from brand to brand.

Maybe it's different in Europe, but here in the backward, conservative Midwest shirts for business use are always worn over some kind of undershirt.  This is not to say my T-shirts are the right size .   I may have to get some smaller ones, or alter the sleeves...

I also wear an under-shirt (except in summer), nothing wrog with that. I just make sure the shirt accommodates it.

[peterle]

Thanks for the pattern.

The band collar is not right.
It is pushing against the back of the neck because it is too straight there. The seam line of the band should be slightly S-formed  from CF to CB:



Is it drafted according a pattern? How high is it? It also seems very tight, especially when it is that high. When you cut a new one, add a seam at the center back, so we are able to make some alterations in length when needed.
Especially the right side is wrong. I think the neck hole is not right there yet. The neck pushes the neck hole outwards.

As a matter of personal taste, I don´t like the back hem line. I think it is too long and too round, I would prefer it  straight in the middle with smaller curves to the side seams.

To illustrate how a tight fitting shirt is cut, I add a 70´s pattern. Notice the run of the sides seam lines and the dart:

[jruley]

The band collar is not right.

Is it drafted according a pattern? How high is it? It also seems very tight, especially when it is that high. When you cut a new one, add a seam at the center back, so we are able to make some alterations in length when needed.

Especially the right side is wrong. I think the neck hole is not right there yet. The neck pushes the neck hole outwards.

I used the pattern given in the M & I Kim book which is straight in the middle of the back.  They say height varies with style, so I took the height from an old dress shirt (Van Heusen).  I will try a new band according to your pattern, with some extra length and a seam.

BTW the collar band shape I used also agrees with a commercial shirt pattern (McCall's) I have used in the past.  Are American collars styled differently from European ones?

As a matter of personal taste, I don´t like the back hem line. I think it is too long and too round, I would prefer it  straight in the middle with smaller curves to the side seams.

Again, this comes from the old VH shirt.  My hemmer foot won't like following those curves, so I may shorten the back when the time comes.

[Henry Hall]

I will try a new band according to your pattern, with some extra length and a seam.

A seam where?

[jruley]

A seam where?

As peterle suggested, a seam at center back.  This is purely for convenience of alteration, it will be eliminated in the finished pattern.

Of course there is no reason why you can't piece up a neckband to save fabric...

[Henry Hall]

A seam where?

As peterle suggested, a seam at center back.  This is purely for convenience of alteration, it will be eliminated in the finished pattern.

Of course there is no reason why you can't piece up a neckband to save fabric...

Peterle did not say to add a seam at the back, but I suppose piecing it will save cloth if you have to move it about. The seam he was talking about is the one that attaches to the neckhole.

[jruley]

Peterle did not say to add a seam at the back, but I suppose piecing it will save cloth if you have to move it about. The seam he was talking about is the one that attaches to the neckhole.

If you look just under the collar pattern he posted, peterle said this:

When you cut a new one, add a seam at the center back, so we are able to make some alterations in length when needed.