Making a Collar By Hand

[TTailor]

If you always leave extra canvas to allow for the difference that the bias creates in an unseamed collar, you can remark the length and shape that occurs.
I don't really like the bulk either, but the collar comes out more evenly if there is a seam.

[Schneiderfrei]

Here is what the Schneiderhandwerk says about the undercollar:

"The collar also gets an inlay.  We have used hair canvas for the material.  It [hair] appears softer and more pliable than the hard collar lining, that seemed so natural to use not long ago.  The experts are, however, not yet in complete agreement.  However, in either case, it is important that the interlining material on the [Crochetnaht] — i.e. the seam where the collar and lapel [Fasson] join — is straight grained, and in fact, must be warp-yarn [kettfadengerade] straight."

Sorry if there are any glaring errors.  It is only talking about the felt and inlay.  I haven't finished beyond this.

G

[Greger]

The center seam can have a shaped cut. Another reason is one side may need to be longer than the other across the back. Otherwise, one piece is alright.

It seems horse hair maybe to bulky. If the hairs poke out, and some, slide out, then the purpose is defeated. Is that the best/correct springingness for a collar? Whatever materials, that are used, it does its job for several decades.

[Schneiderfrei]

Well Schneiderhandwerk was from the 1950's.  Hair canvas probably looked pretty good.

[Greger]

If you find hair canvas that does the job you want what more can you ask for? Good is good.

[EdgarHopkins]

Does anyone knows why he pushes the melton forward while basting it to the canvas at 3min48 ? i don't understand the pupose of creating any kind of tention here.

[pfaff260]

I agree with Peterle. This what my old teacher told me to, allthough, at school there where teachers who said to use one piece.
But weft and warp react diferently i think.

[peterle]

Does anyone knows why he pushes the melton forward while basting it to the canvas at 3min48 ? i don't understand the pupose of creating any kind of tention here.

On the finished piece the horsehair will lie over the melton. Thus the horsehair needs a bit more length than the melton. otherwise the melton will pucker.