Ciraci shirt

[lance]

In response to @Schneiderfrei's request, here are some photos of the two shirts I recently made following the Ciraci method (albeit with a few "customisations"). One is in popline and the other percale.

[Hendrick]

Compliments, nice shirt!

Cheers, Hendrick

[Schneiderfrei]

I agree with Hendrick, very well done.

It's a beautiful shirt.

I would like to Point out a feature that reflects the draft, and not your execution.

The draft is as most drafts are worked out for a proportional figure. Your figure is, like mine, somewhat more errect than the proportional expectation.

This is why the front rises up, like your side view shows.

The remedy, in a future shirt project, will be to measure the front/vertical balance, and add that amount into the front parts of the draft at the level of the mid scye.

Its a common requirement.

A while ago I wrote my notes from when I first encountered this problem:

https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php/topic,61.msg251

[lance]

@Hendrik, thanks! it may not be perfect, but I like it a lot.

@Schneiderfrei, indeed, I did no correction for balance on these shirts. My right shoulder is slightly longer, lower and forward than the left one, for example. Maybe on my next one...

OK, so here are some observations for anyone else trying this method:

1) In the instructions for the back, the line "5 – 8 — same as 1 – 2' plus 1.5 or 2 cm" should read "5 – 8 — same as 1' – 2 plus 1.5 or 2 cm". This seems to simply be a typo in the original document.

2) There are no instructions for drawing the rear shoulder line, but I deduce that you measure points 6 - 9, and use this measurement as the shoulder length passing through point 9'.

3) Point 10 on the back has no purpose in the text. I suppose it is meant to be used for shaping the armscye...

4) The front shoulder is shorter than the rear, whichever of the two given methods are used to place point 5. This is certainly intentional, but I just made the front shoulder length identical to the rear, for simplicity of sewing.

5) The rear shoulder is quite long, longer than the Rundschau method, so I shortened it by 1cm.

6) The armscye was 5cm shorter than the sleeve top. I imagine this is also intentional, but I dropped the armscye by an inch to compensate for this.

7) The sleeve is very long (length minus cuff plus 4cm). I skipped the plus 4cm. It is also extremely wide at the cuff end, so I narrowed it considerably there.

8 ) The collar design leaves no gap at all when buttoned up. On the first shirt I made, I chickened out and created a gap of about 1/4 inch. On the second, I followed the original design, and I actually prefer it (with a tie).

9) The collar stand and collar instructions are inverted.

In summary, with some minor modifications, I think this method gives a really nice shirt, more of a 1950's look than 1960's, I would say. It is quite roomy, I feel no need for pleats at the back.

Give it a try if you like this style of shirt...

[Schneiderfrei]

@Schneiderfrei, indeed, I did no correction for balance on these shirts.

As a matter of fact I'm having another look at the photo. Your balance may be a lot better than I first thought. A shadow seems to obscure the actual profile of the front.

The side seam is the real test of balance and it is very slightly pointing forward.

G