A new pair of jeans for me.

[kate]

Funnily enough I really liked the pockets where you placed them first time - they were kind of kooky and original and looked good side-on.  Where you have them now - they look a bit square and small on the apple of your cheek. Maybe larger and more pointy at the bottom and placed further down? (But maybe that's because I'm so used to that in men's jeans). I'm thrown a bit by the pressed-in crease line. Somehow it's drawing my eye to the breaking underneath the seat. It would be interesting to see them without the iron work. Didn't another person on C&T use the Chaudry draft to make a pair of jeans that were a bit more fitted round the seat and the crotch?  I can't find it on the archived versions. Posaune's right about having to accommodate the fact that denim will change over time with wear. The fabric that you've used here looks like it's had a bit more processing/washing compared to some very raw japanese denims that you find the guys making an art of breaking in.  (I can't see it very clearly on my screen - is it a twill? Looks a bit cross-hatch). So it might not grow out so much but still should be factored in. The second lot of pictures - as well as a few lost pounds - could it also be that the fibres have loosened just because they've been worn a bit?   

[hutch--]

To get the behinds to fit better, you need a pattern change. I did a topic in C&T on the pattern mods required and I think I still have the photos on my computer. There are two areas that need to be changed, the thigh gap so that instead of a V shape under the behind you curve both lines and add some fabric on either side of the bottom of the back halves so that there is a bit more room for sitting. It also improves the shape a lot.

Found it !!!!



I have seen this mod done on English designed slim fit trousers as well and it improves the shape under the inside of the behind. What you are trying to do is make the shape that an incorrectly fitted pair of trousers are dragged into once you have worn them long enough.

[hutch--]

This is the other basic mod, you must add more fabric either side of the center back seam and not make the fit too tight at the hip line to avoid a basic defect.



The top image is the basic vertical profile of a person taken at the hip joint line. The second image shows how a pair of trousers need to fit when you have enough extra fabric on either side of the rear seam. The third image is a pair of trousers that are too tight at the hip line without the extra fabric either side of the rear seam. The defect in fit with the third image causes a flattening of the behind that loses the natural shape that many want with the behind of a pair of trousers.

[Thom Bennett]

Hi Guys, Yes I always remember your mod Hutch, my trousers thread is burnt in my mind. Maybe I need to make the V slightly more curved on the undersides.  Kate, I also preferred them as they were but I do see how their placement affects the size and shape of one's posterior, they were a demonstration pair really as I have never made jeans before.  The Denim is very soft and I also washed it before striking it, possibly to soft!  I started doing the ironwork because I was used to doing it, also due to my calfs and hips I thought it might be good to do, certainly makes them different.  Thanks Gerger I'll look at the bulk around the pockets, I think the problem I am having is the fabric shaping itself about my wrists which is why I thought maybe adding a bit of stay tape might stop this; I'll take a photo of it when I next wear them.

I have some new Japanese denim but it much stiffer than the last lot, yes it is a twill type weave Kate.  I am going to use this new cloth for a test garment, which is why I am looking for a decent overlocker, the edge binding I do on my raw edges doesn't look that great on normal reverse side of denim.  Would I be better to modify my normal trousers draft or, draft again from Chaudhry?  They look a bit strange at the front because, in my mind I am still quite corpulent but, in reality I am not particularly; well for my age and therefore added a stupid amount of ease to the top panels.  I'll pay particular attention to the V on both parts to ope them up a bit, and not cut in so much on the rear parts or ease up front.  Once I have the pattern locked down, and an overlocker I can then crack on with making a few pairs, with felled seams as with commercially produced garments.  I want to get the jeans down so I can also use it for moleskin.  I'm making a pair of trousers out of some nice flannel cloth at the moment before getting back to my jeans project.



Thanks for the cheeky illustrations Hutch, I do need to add a bit there which I also think the pockets will then look better when placed further out.  I'll be starting on it next week, hopefully.

[hutch--]

Hi Tom,

Before my tailor friend down the road retired I got to see a lot of high end jeans that he had from customers to modify and the most common layout for the inner and outer leg seams was a double turned flat felled seam on the outside with double line face stitching (normal jeans appearance) and a 5 thread overlock on the inside seam. Now I don't see any reason to make the double turned flat felled seam unless you want that appearance, a single overlocked edge that is flat felled is both strong enough and looks cleaner. Because you cannot get at the inside seam with the same ease as the outside, depending on what you want, a normal open seam first then overlock the 2 unsecured edges will work OK and be at least as strong as the production 5 thread overlock.

[kate]

Ah! C&T is back up and I've found what I was looking for yesterday - the version of the Chaudry jeans by Lance:
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=4075&hl=jeans&page=2

Different body and posture from yours - different fabric and different style of jeans aimed for. He's dropped the waist which has produced a narrower yoke, the pockets cover a larger area of the rear and their points go right down possibly to below the crotch level - helps reduce the size of the seat in appearance. I think he's taking in at the back crotch point - reducing the back crotch length and narrowing the leg a bit at the same time.  I don't think you need to do that - but could you lower the back at the waist a bit and see how that looks and feels? Toile on a heavy weight calico perhaps before the Japanese denim? (With a twill like that, cut the pieces in the same direction as if it has a nap)

[Henry Hall]

In Tom's case lowering the waist any more would be entirely the wrong thing to do, it's already low. Perhaps reducing the width of the yoke, but keeping the same overall length.

[kate]

Yes I thought in the first set of Tom's photos that the waist was fine and didn't need adjusting. It was just the side view in the second set of pictures - made me think the back waist could come down a bit. At first I thought they must be completely different pair.  Just shows what a difference stance, camera angle etc can all make.

[Thom Bennett]

Looking at the pictures Kate is referring to I can see what she means, there is quite a steep angle from back to front in the side view.  This is making the backs to long fir the side-seam and tucking under my seat, I thought it didn't feel quite right but couldn't put my finger on it. I may not have explained myself to well however I know what I mean.    It's not that the waistband is in the wrong position, though I would like it slightly lower at the CB it's the seat is swinging underneath, if you know what I mean.



I think I will take a tad off, ⅜th should probably do it.  I think this should pull up the seat seam, give a bit more shape.  The denim I have at the moment isn't as nice as the stuff I used for these, nevertheless you're probably right Kate.

[Henry Hall]

Ah, I must have missed this photo.

[kate]

Oh good you guys see it as well? Today I'm trying to get my head round crookening and straightening when it comes to coats... so don't feel sure of anything right now...

[Thom Bennett]

Good luck with your coat pattern Kate.  I realise why there is a little extra because I forgot to do my felled seam on the yoke, I cut the pieces months before cutting and changed my mind in the seam detail.  I opted for flat seams instead of the traditional neglecting to snip of the extra seam allowance, I realised after suggesting that I need to take ⅜ of the back length. Doh!  I'm going to do flat felled seams on future pairs.