A new pair of jeans for me.

Thom Bennett · May 18, 2016, 05:55:23 AM

I kind of figured that as they are tailored then why not? I like the look, it's different.

I've just had a look at how pocket placement makes a big difference, I'll work on that area. I need them big enough for a wallet.

Greger · May 20, 2016, 02:18:20 AM

Denim looks really nice. Never seen anything like it. With mass-production the short fly is easier and they end up with less second-$. For the male autonomy it's really not practical. People are used of the cheap look (they can have it). So the thought, "old fashioned", doesn't apply from my perspective. Like the thread work on the hip pockets. But the pockets themselves are too squareist for my taste. Angles and/or curves makes them more exciting. The yoke seems to dip to far down in center back. It depends on how flat or round the seat is. Flat is less distance to cover and less angle into the small of the back. The purpose of a yoke there is to add shape. This is done by adjusting size and curving the lines however much is best. See where the prominent sag is at and draw the curve accordingly. A slight curve up. You can experiment with a down curve and see how that works. The silk twist button holes I made deteriorate, if they go into the wash. How I use, regular modern day sewing thread doubled, but not twisted. To make it look nice and neat the two threads are side by side, even in the knots. For the gimp, same thread doubled, side by side (so really no gimp at all). The front pockets dip down too low at the sideseams. The iron work is worth it. How you did the insides is really nice. Glad you posted this project.

Thom Bennett · May 20, 2016, 03:25:08 AM

Hey Greger, thanks for stopping by and commenting, we appreciate it. I have to agree with you I like a low fly notch, I do feel that this particular one maybe a bit long; actually it is the buttonhole-strip that is too big. I am going to strip down the fly-piece and re-site the back pockets. Yeah I am going to work on the little bits like back pockets, the yoke to get a better fit, I thought I would do the draft as-is then look at modifications.

The denim is lovely and soft, I have just spoken to them and they have run out of it. They are sending me samples of the new stock when it arrives. I agree the ironwork is important if it's at all possible.

Schneiderfrei · May 20, 2016, 09:56:32 AM

That's an interesting and understandable reason for placing the pockets so. Certainly one of the best reasons for making one's own is to have them they way you want. I feel they do look a bit wide.

hutch-- · May 21, 2016, 12:01:05 PM

Tom,

Having had a good look at the side profile photos, a couple of things come to mind. As before I suggested that a higher waistline would improve keeping them up so you can wear a belt rather than braces, from the photo about 1 inch higher at the front and about 3/4 of an inch at the back. I have a similar problem in having just enough gut to annoy me and if the front is not high enough my slight gut pushes the front waistline down.

I agree with the comment that the front pockets are too low at the side seam and I suggest that raising the pocket edge on the side seam by about an inch would make the contents of the front pockets far less prone to push out at the top when you sit down. I understand the idea of why you have placed the back pockets far enough apart so you can sit without sitting on you wallet but you can go the other way and make them high enough so you don't sit on them.

If you raise the top position so that the top of the pocket is attached over the yoke below the waist band and make the top of the pockets parallel with the waistband you will get them high enough so you can sit without sitting on your wallet. With the two inside edges of the pockets that face the center seam, if you space them about 2 inches from the center seam you place the pocket over a major muscle rather than closer to the hip joint which should be a lot more comfortable.

Thom Bennett · May 21, 2016, 11:19:34 PM

Thanks Hutch, the wallet comment was a throw away really, more of an excuse for their awful positioning. I have taken them off and straightened them up, they now sit 1 1/2" in from the side seam and 2 1/2" down. Sadly at the moment they cross the yoke seam but they are more presentable when I wear them out and about. I have some new cloth and will be paying close attention to the pattern, now I have more of an understanding of how the pattern works. I have been sticking bits of oaktag to the pattern so it can be successfully modified, this pair was the experiment. I'll baste something together this week hopefully.

I would post an image but am having problems obtaining the link from photobucket, not sure why, nothing to do with this forum.

hutch-- · May 22, 2016, 12:03:09 AM

Tom,

Use the "Add image to post" option that has been added recently.

Thom Bennett · May 22, 2016, 01:40:27 AM

No, it's not the forum, that's easy, it's something to do with photobucket's js or something.

Okay, I give u and will use your photo service, god knows what is going on at PB!

Here are the back pockets:

hutch-- · May 22, 2016, 10:27:17 AM

Hi Tom,

That looks way better and you should be able to sit in them without crushing anything in the back pockets.

Henry Hall · May 27, 2016, 01:57:30 AM

Unless you have lady's hand in your back pocket.

Thom Bennett · May 27, 2016, 02:48:00 AM

Chance would be a fine thing!

Henry Hall · May 27, 2016, 03:31:21 AM

I'll send you one in the post (I'm not weird in any way

)

Schneiderfrei · May 27, 2016, 08:24:22 AM

Of course, he means a hand

Thom Bennett · May 31, 2016, 06:56:12 PM

I meant to post this a couple of weeks ago but caught up in other things. This is my pattern extension to my generic pocket bag piece, this is in response to lepus' suggestion to catch the pocket bag in the fly run. Having worn these trousers now a few times I can see why it is needed. I can also see that some kind of tape across the pocket to stop its habit to bulge. I have some more denim now so will cut a new pair soon, once I have finished some changes to the main pattern pieces.

Greger · June 01, 2016, 03:17:34 AM

I find that pressing those kinds of pockets; the top edge needs to be pressed on the curve of a ham.

Whenever you have bulk the top layer needs to be longer. The pocket yoke is bulk on jeans. And that curve around the hip at sideseam seems to add to it. 3/16 of an inch might be about right.

Both of these methods should get rid of the pocket bulging open.

News:

A new pair of jeans for me.