jeans draft (french firm 1083) gents and woman

[posaune]

In a blog this address was released:
for gents
http://www.1083.fr/media/wysiwyg/101BRU13_Patron.pdf
for woman
http://www.1083.fr/media/wysiwyg/201BRU13_Patron.pdf

it s a draft for a jeans  which you can download.
lg
posaune

[Henry Hall]

Is it one of those you print out and stick together?

[pfaff260]

Yes. Print in real size and stick together. Drafting is quicker!

[Thom Bennett]

and more enjoyable!

[Henry Hall]

I used one of these ages ago for a waistcoat and ended up making a lot of alterations to the pattern. 10 cents per sheet for 20-odd sheets of paper.
If the result of the jeans pattern is a fairly good block, it might be worth it for people who don't like drafting. There are not that many jeans drafts about.

[Greger]

Drew a pattern on Adobe illustrator one time. Printed it. One person explained to line the sheets up on a sliding glass door using a plumb bob to get the vertical lines straight while tapeing the sheets to the glass and then each other before cutting. If you have access to a plotter that would be nice. But, it is still much faster to draw on paper, skipping the computer and printing it.

The patterns above, what quality are they? Even good quality doesn't mean it will fit 98% of the people.

[jeffrey]

Thank you for this Posaune. It is always good and interesting to see these tiled patterns. One can always take something away from different systems.

[posaune]

Hi jeffrey, yes, I thought it very interesting. And generous that the firm released this.
You can see how the drafts look and differ. The shaped waist band and the shape from knee up in the ladies draft, the graded back pocket the straight side seam. Why they have a right and left front with ladies I do not know  and I do see no difference in the male pattern too.
Lg
posaune
98% is a large fitting range.

[lepus]

Hi jeffrey, yes, I thought it very interesting. And generous that the firm released this.
You can see how the drafts look and differ. The shaped waist band and the shape from knee up in the ladies draft, the graded back pocket the straight side seam. Why they have a right and left front with ladies I do not know  and I do see no difference in the male pattern too.
Lg
posaune
98% is a large fitting range.

I can't see any difference between the women's left and right fronts either, but I've only looked at the tops. The men's right front is, as you would expect, extended somewhat so that the zipper/fly attachment seam falls behind the left centre front to hide it from view.
Typical "horseback" jeans it seems to me, with (nearly) straight side seams and all shaping on the inseams.

[kate]

I like the ideas behind "1083 Borne in France" (that "e" in "Borne" bothers me though)  - it's nice that they've made some of their fabrics available to buy and well the patterns downloadable for free. 

That woman's draft is for this style http://www.1083.fr/201-droit-denimoriginal-brut-1083-couleur-bleu.html - using non-stretch fabrics - which I guess is why there are the wrinkles and pulls along the back of the thighs and knees?

The pattern itself doesn't seem to have a piece for the front lower pocket bag - and the pocket bearer/facing is the wrong piece altogether I think, unless I've read it wrong.

It would be nice to see the pattern for the stretch style http://www.1083.fr/204-fusele-flexdenim-brut-1083-couleur-bleu.html that looks good. I might order a few metres of their "flexdenim" and see what it's like.

[posaune]

Kate there is another one
http://www.1083.fr/media/wysiwyg/202BRU13_Patron.pdf
boot cut
but I think it is the same fabric
lg
posaune

[hutch--]

Most of the stretch denim I have seen or used is a reasonably limited one way stretch which is normally used in the width direction. This means stitching in the vertical will behave normally with almost no stretch but in the horizontal where you have some stretch you risk some fluting (stretching the seam). As far as a pattern goes, if you can get a good fit using non stretch denim then you only need to slightly modify it to work in stretch denim.

Vertically it will be close enough to the same but horizontally you need to slightly narrow the pattern to accommodate the amount of stretch in the denim and a trick I have learnt is to slightly reduce the shaping so that the stretch will take up more of the shape. On a pair of jeans you may not want the legs too tight so you would moderate the amount of narrowing to get the results you want.

[posaune]

Here I found a nice photo-page about jeans sewing
http://andewhall.bigcartel.com/making-jeans
lg
posaune

[Thom Bennett]

Excellent find posaune.

[pfaff260]

Very nice. Thank you.