Shoulder dart vs. yoke

[jruley]

My shirt sloper needed an adjustment to the upper back to provide extra length over the blades.  It looks like this:



It occurs to me that another way to accomplish the same thing is to close the shoulder dart and open a short one in the back scye as shown here (the metal scale indicates the bottom edge of the dart):



If I do it this way, then I can split the back horizontally from the tip of the dart to CB, and cut a separate yoke.  This is not the accepted style for a suit jacket, but is perfectly fine for a shirt.

A yoke might also help conceal adjustments to the shoulder slope to accomodate the dropped shoulder.  I could cut the yoke symmetrically, and take all the length needed out of the tops of front and back. 

Have I analyzed this correctly?

[theresa in tucson]

Jruley,  a western yoke in a jacket is a perfectly acceptable design element in some parts of the U.S. so don't rule it out.  You can even get a little loud like the Nudie Cohn suits of the country western stars.

[jruley]

Jruley,  a western yoke in a jacket is a perfectly acceptable design element in some parts of the U.S. so don't rule it out.  You can even get a little loud like the Nudie Cohn suits of the country western stars.

Thanks, but the main places I wear suit jackets nowadays are weddings, funerals, and as an usher in church.

[Henry Hall]

Do you wear a frock on any of those occasions? I'm not being facetious; I've worn a frock coat at a funeral.

[posaune]

Jim,
naturally you would rotate the dart (a bit higher placed) under the yoke with a shirt draft.  With a coat you can split the dart and rotate it a bit into armhole, leave a bit in the shoulder and put some in the neckhole and in the CB seam (more rounded). You ease it in with the iron. Or you are bold and sew this dart or do a panel draft.
The alteration for a dropped shoulder in a shirt I do under the yoke in front and back. In a coat you can add different high shoulder pads or combine it with a little lower and shoulder pads not so high. Your phantasies have no limits.
lg
posaune
When I look at your draft I think the location for lifting for shoulderblade is too much to the armhole. I think, it would be better more to center. Maybe your wife (poor she) can measure this. It is most times 1/3 of back width from CB.

[jruley]

Do you wear a frock on any of those occasions? I'm not being facetious; I've worn a frock coat at a funeral.

I wore a frock to one wedding, that of a good friend who did me the honor of asking me to help dress all the men of the wedding party in Victorian garb. 
Her father liked his suit so well that he was buried in it a few years later.

But I would not wear a frock unless period dress or costume was expected.

When I look at your draft I think the location for lifting for shoulderblade is too much to the armhole. I think, it would be better more to center. Maybe your wife (poor she) can measure this. It is most times 1/3 of back width from CB.

I took it from this diagram which you shared in post #6 of the sloper fitting thread:

http://www.mediafire.com/view/1s15cckrucz04kc/posture.png

It appeared to show the dart 1/3 of the back width from the armhole.  But maybe you are right, if I move it the folds in the upper back won't be so big.

[posaune]

Sorry, I did just draft it to show the effect. Did not think about right place.
lg
posaune

[peterle]

A  shoulder dart is also allowed in coats. Sometimes there is no other option, like when there is a round back and rigid fabric like linnen, cotton or something else that doesn´t take ironwork well.
The dart would be much nearer to the neckhole.

[jruley]

I have applied this to the sloper toile (see latest series of photos).