A Close-Fitting Sloper

[lepus]

With all this attaching and detaching of sleeves, perhaps it's an opportune moment to warn, in particular those who read this thread to pick up tips and are not yet desperate, that armholes are in danger of being stretched and losing their expected shape and size as a result of those operations, depending on type of fabric and so on. Surely this issue will have been addressed in this particular sample, but I couldn't find a mention. As I will be receiving surly remarks if I don't offer instant remedies, let me just mention two out of a range of possible measures:

• run a chainstitch around the armhole
• stitch or fuse a narrow tape (bridle tape) in place

BTW, this is also used to process leftover ease in the armhole that can't be distributed anywhere else.

[jruley]

Here I have marked the pattern with the new cap, elbow, and cuff lines in red:



Right sleeve was taken out, taken apart, marked, re-sewn, and re-installed with the construction line aligned with the shoulder seam.  Left sleeve remains the same as in post #226:

[peterle]

How does it feel now? It  defenitely looks more relaxed.

But before we continue with the sleeve (I have to think how to get rid of the diagonal fold in the front and we have to do some cap line cosmetics), there is another issue:
Since post 207 the balance is off. It´s the  filled back neck hole, it´s not deep enough. Please clip it so the toile can hang balanced.

[jruley]

The sleeve feels better now.

Are you sure it's the back neckhole?  Compare #202 (no fill in back) with #208 (neckhole filled and clipped).  Both seem to show length is needed in the front above the chest line.  This was not evident before the sleeves were added (compare #180.) Are the sleeves affecting the balance?

I've also noticed in the last few changes the back centerline is skewed more to the right.  Not sure what (if anything) should be done about it.

[peterle]

In Post 202 the balance seems to be ok, (at least the left side). In Post 208 the balance is off. The back chest line is so much deeper till then.

Is the curved hardly visible line below the stay stich in the back neck hole the old neckhole? If yes, the new neckhole is about 2cm if not 3cm higher. That´s too much. I think you could deepen/clip the back neckhole about 1cm.

[jruley]

Back neckline has been lowered 3/8" per request.

[peterle]

Thank you.
THat did not help tremendousely. I don´t really know where we lost the balance. It was ok in 202 and is off since then.
Comparing 202 and 208 I now see what the mistake is: the shoulder seam points at the neck are pulled back a lot in 208. This disturbes the balance. Please recheck how this could happen.

The other alteration we did was the across shoulder dart, maybe that takes too much of the front balance. Just remove it or make it half as long so it starts at the neck and ends at the half of the shoulder. It should be shallower as well.

[jruley]

I decided to "separate the variables" by removing the sleeves.  This should take us all the way back to post #180.  It looks like the balance has indeed changed:









Maybe I was sloppy in filling the back neckhole and gathered some material causing shortness.  Maybe the transverse shoulder dart is contributing as well.  Either way, I think the answer is a new yoke piece, cut longer in front so we can account for the transverse dart.  But I will wait for the teacher's direction.  .

[peterle]

yes, I think so too.
A new yoke would be fine. I hope the good fit before filling the neck hole wasn´t due to a stretched neckhole.

[Greger]

The warp threads really should run vertical for long lasting. The line down the back, if this is following the warp, is in error. It really shouldn't be on bias.

[posaune]

That's right, Greger.
But it is the case here, if you look through all the pics you'll see, it is so that on some pics it is so but not on others.  Some times left hangs - sometimes right. This time the sloperis high on the left side , see front view - how high it climbs above the neck line. You think the center back would swing to the left - but in back view (see left side is hanging)  we see it swings to the right.
This is the real difficulty in this case.
lg
posaune

[jruley]

The warp threads really should run vertical for long lasting. The line down the back, if this is following the warp, is in error. It really shouldn't be on bias.

Since post #130 the back centerline and side seams have been skewed to the right 3/4" from top to bottom.  So the back is not "square" any more.  In other words the angle between the chest and waist lines and the centerline is not a right angle.

So, when I cut the material for a real shirt - should I place the back centerline on the grain?  Or make the grain perpendicular to the chest and waist lines?

[peterle]

We have drawn the center back slanted to accomodate the shifted hip. This slanted center line is just a construction line.
The grain should run perpendicular to the chest/waist/hem line. When using stripes, the center stripe should run through the center point at the yoke.

[jruley]

We have drawn the center back slanted to accomodate the shifted hip. This slanted center line is just a construction line.
The grain should run perpendicular to the chest/waist/hem line. When using stripes, the center stripe should run through the center point at the yoke.

Thanks -- you're up late tonight!

Yoke has been removed and replaced with a new one featuring the raised back neck and the forward extension.  The toile seems to be back in balance.

Shall I reattach the sleeves or are changes needed?

[peterle]

Please mark the (old )shoulders  seam line. We need it as a reference line, and we need it to attach the sleeves.

Did you change the front yoke seam, former dart? It ends a lot more towards the front than before. Please reassure you didn´t shorten the front with the new seam, because the front balance seems to be shorter/ too short at the moment. (diagonal folds starting at the nipples).