Jacket Toile Fit Check

[jruley]

Hello peterle,

You are absolutely right!  If you notice, point 28 in the draft (from which you square up to find the neck point) is "1/6 scale plus 3/4" from the front sleeve pitch (point 23).  Checking my draft, I either read the 1/12 scale by mistake, or subtracted 3/4 instead of adding.  Either way, my neck point is about 1-1/2 inches out of position, so no wonder there are some problems!

I remember being surprised when point 41 (end of lapel) came out very narrow.  After scratching my head for awhile, I assumed the "3-1/2 or whatever style demands" was not working for my size for some reason.  Should have realized what the math was trying to tell me!

I will draft a new forepart with the neck point in the correct location, plus moving the center front out 1/2" to allow for the amount I took in the back.

BTW I realize now that the wedge you suggested pinning out would have both shortened the roll line and straightened the shoulder.  What I spent a couple of hours doing, un-doing and re-doing could have been accomplished in 15 minutes.  I guess I need to stop over-thinking and follow directions .

[TTailor]

I need to learn to scroll horizontally, then I would have seen that you posted the whole pattern! On my ipad only the lower half shows.

[hutch--]

 

Yes, sad to say scaled patterns and iPad's are not the best combination.

[jruley]

Here are the new patterns. 

Here is the upper part of the fronts,  with new on top and old on the bottom.  The dropped shoulder adjustment is shown, with red for left and green for right:



Here is the whole new pattern.  Back is the same for both sides, with the right sidebody scooped out as shown.



Terri:  When you said "other half" I thought you meant the right and left differences.

[jruley]

Here's the new mockup with the neck point straightened.

[pfaff260]

I think the lowerpart of the front is a bit full. You could take out a litte bit there.
I hope posting a image works. Else, some one off you good people might help?
http://s201.photobucket.com/user/Satorarepo/media/New/New%202/CPG_Morris_Corupulent002.jpg.html

[pfaff260]

Posting the image did not work. The url is there. Hope it explanes what you could do.
It would give a cleaner look i think.

[hutch--]

Like this ?

On Photobucket, click the magnifying glass with the + in it to see the image. Right click on it to get your browser's menu them select the option to copy the web address of the image.

Paste that web address into the edit window, select the complete line then click the button under the "B" button. After you save the post it should look like this.

[pfaff260]

Thank you so much Hutch.

[Greger]

The first pictures I like the most, though with a few changes. The straight back reminds me of the early sixties.  Go watch Peter Gunn's TV show.

The last group of pictures shows the fronts to long. Plus, both buttons are to be buttoned. The lapel roll and length can be adjusted at the collar. Since the belly is out there, not much, but a little, the front needs to be extended there and the don lon wedge to shorten the bottom edge. The back hem length is to long.

[Henry Hall]

Instead of buttoning closed perhaps it would be best to pin the fronts, at both button points and get both foreparts vertical, to be able to asses it properly.

[peterle]

When looking at the black zig zag seams at the pocket line, i have a question:

The pattern is meant to close the horizontal wedge  at the pocket line that starts at the chest dart. Your seams indicate you just patched a piece underneath and didn´t close the wedge? Point 56 and 57 have to meet in the sewn front. This will clean a bit of the hem line.

To pin the fronts according Henry´s tip: the vertical line 24-25-26 is the front center line of the pattern. Transfer this line to the toile and pin the fronts with this lines on top of the other.

[pfaff260]

Not closing the donlon wedge would explain the fullnes in the front

[jruley]

When looking at the black zig zag seams at the pocket line, i have a question:

The pattern is meant to close the horizontal wedge  at the pocket line that starts at the chest dart. Your seams indicate you just patched a piece underneath and didn´t close the wedge? Point 56 and 57 have to meet in the sewn front. This will clean a bit of the hem line.

No, I closed the wedge.  What I actually did (quick and dirty for the mockup) was slit the material from point 55 to the front of the dart.  After sewing the dart, I overlapped the cut edge until it met the line from 57 to the front of the dart.  I zigzag stitched over both raw edges.
This has the same effect as cutting out the wedge and is stronger.  Of course when I make the jacket I will cut out the wedge and bring the edges together with some interfacing underneath to support the pocket welt seams.

To pin the fronts according Henry´s tip: the vertical line 24-25-26 is the front center line of the pattern. Transfer this line to the toile and pin the fronts with this lines on top of the other.

The ends of the buttonholes lie on this line, so I will sew on a lower button and open the lower hole.  This will be a more consistent mark than trying to pin the mockup closed while I am wearing it.

[jruley]

OK, here we are with both buttons buttoned on the CF line:









The skirt looks smoother and the bottom edge is more horizontal.  However, the collar is now pulling away from the neck, especially on the left side.
I had my wife pin the front overlap tighter, removing the extra width I added at the last change.  I hoped this might pull the lapel closer to the neck, but all it did was tighten the waist a bit.  Since I took the pictures here they are for comparison: