Which Drafting System Do Y'all Recommend?

Started by Sam Tyler, July 06, 2025, 05:45:57 PM

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Sam Tyler

Quote from: TTailor on July 07, 2025, 11:20:25 PMMuller et sohn often sell individual patterns and drafts from the magazine or from their full books.
I would look there and consider metric pattern cutting for menswear. Its a beginner friendly book.

Thanks. I'll check it out, although it may be a bit before I can share some results here. Big storm here yesterday did some damage sw of town so I may have some work coming in.
Pfaff Tipmatic 6122, Juki MO-735N, various items for measure mark cut pin, and a cat that thinks it's all a game. The iron spits like a cobra and the boards need better padding. Looking for a steam station.

Schneiderfrei

My Mueller shirt draft is from the 2000's.

I would not like to post the draft up here because of copyright issues.

The draft is very 3D shaped to the bodice, and even has 3 different degrees of closenes to the figure. This is very different from the pre 1990's drafts which are more or less an enveloupe.

I really recommend Hemden Schnitttechnik. My shirts made from this draft look a lot more like modern shirts. In fact I would be totally unsurprised to find that Mueller provides drafts to manufacturing companies, especially those that do not pinch them without permission.
Schneider sind auch Leute

jruley

Quote from: Sam Tyler on July 07, 2025, 11:22:44 PMI'm really looking for a complete system, not bits and bobs. That way when I know how to adjust one garment from the system I should know more how to adjust another garment in the same system.

Understood, I was after the same thing once.  Some things may carry over from garment to garment but it can't be reduced to a cookbook procedure.  Changes in style can affect the fit of a garment, so be prepared to do some tweaking on each new pattern - even if they all came from the same book.

Greger

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on July 07, 2025, 07:06:11 PM
Quote from: Greger on July 07, 2025, 05:34:10 PMThere are a few fitting answers for tall neck, short neck, stooped and erect stance missing.

Oh Greger, do you know where those aditional instructions might be found?

The Modern Tailor Outfitter And Clothier III, pages 132 and 133. Chapter XIII
The download copy I have is barely readable.
That chapter has pajamas, dressing gown and underwear.