Advice/resources for someone just starting out?

[Amb0925]

Hi everyone! I have posted a few times in the apprentice board with questions and have always been met with the most helpful advice. I was wondering if anyone could help me find resources or offer advice about how to get educated when I do not have the advantage of a tailor that I can learn from in-person. There are no real tailors in my area that I know of, a few seamstresses that I have been learning from that are retiring soon. I got into it because there is so little competition and I really do love to sew, mend, and alter. Even if there was a tailor near me, I couldn't really be an apprentice because I am a stay-at-home mom of 2 kids under 2 and can't spend that much time out of my home.

Here is how I've learned what I know so far:
-in high school, my grandma gave me her old sewing machine and showed me how to use it.
-I took one semester as a fashion major at baylor university (I loved my construction class, did very well, and was a straight-a student before dropping out) but really only got to learn the basics of sewing buttons, zippers, very basic pattern alterations and construction of a basic skirt and blouse from a provided pattern.
-I enjoy watching YouTube channels related to sewing, though I have been able to find only a few quality ones and none that get into tailoring, more just basic sew-your-own-clothes or fashion history
-any books I can find at the library or used bookstores, most of which are also for diy-ers and I usually skim to the specific skills I need in the moment. I have been looking through the book recs in this forum and will try to see if there are any in there that can be a sort of foundational textbook for me
-working under a woman who makes draperies, slipcovers, etc. mostly just cutting fabric with patterns that she has already made
-alterations for money on the side when I have time, people mostly just need pants hemmed but I have done a few slightly more complicated things too

I feel like I have a spotty knowledge of everything and I would love a more systematic approach to build a strong foundation. I'm not asking to become a master tailor overnight but I would like to have the basics down really well and have a way to grow in knowledge over time. I don't want to be "winging it" with a youtube video every time I get a new project. It would be great to learn to make my husband and I some nice clothes that fit well, maybe one day do some real tailoring. And Lots of tutorials and diy books tend to show the quick and easy way, and I am hoping to learn the right way. Sometimes when I try to learn via google it feels like I have to tap into a secret tailoring dark web to get the right info. I should add that I do not have thousands of dollars to spend on an online course unfortunately; if that is something that you all think is important then I may be able to save up and do that one day. My time is also very limited with the kids and lots of other projects my husband and I have going on; we keep pretty busy. Sewing is a priority though for me (after husband and kids) so I have been trying to allocate more time for it in scattered blocks throughout the day and at night when the kids are in bed.

[Gerry]

A selection of some of the channels that I follow on youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/@OFFICIALISOT

https://www.youtube.com/@BESPOKEEDUCATOR

https://www.youtube.com/@HORSSUJET/playlists

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YXERDnPniw&list=PLUOdN9OIUtl0qzjR337WBwPLYqy7Nh14J

https://www.youtube.com/@becomeatailor6204

https://www.youtube.com/@LeeMarshsavilerow/videos

https://www.youtube.com/@silviochan89/videos

https://www.youtube.com/@shirtologist9365

https://www.youtube.com/@Maldonado60

https://www.youtube.com/@caffeinatedtailor

Rory Duffy has some excellent videos on vimeo to rent, covering trouser, waistcoat and jacket making Savile Row style. Savile Row trained tailor Jo Baker Waters also has a very good course on vimeo to rent about jacket/coat making.

[Amb0925]

Thank you very much. I will check them all out. This forum has been a treasure trove so far.

[Gerry]

For reasons that I can't fathom, vimeo is no longer searchable. So I can't find some of the episodes for Jo Bakers Water's course. If anyone has better luck, please post the missing page:

https://www.handcrafttailor.com/team-1

1-9
https://vimeo.com/ondemand/artisan44fullmasterclass

10-19
https://vimeo.com/ondemand/artisan44masterclass2/

20-30
https://vimeo.com/ondemand/artisan44masterclassdb3/

31-40

https://vimeo.com/ondemand/arrtisan44masterclassdb4

Edit: found and updated.

[Amb0925]

Looking through the handcraft tailor academy site, it looks like it will be a helpful resource. The blog and forum alone have a lot that interests me. I will definitely check out the vimeo courses. If I were to sell a kidney and purchase his online drafting course (or perhaps save my alterations money for a year or two), do you think it would be worth it? Or is there a more cost effective way to learn the same thing in a book or by less expensive video courses?

[Gerry]

Looking through the handcraft tailor academy site, it looks like it will be a helpful resource. The blog and forum alone have a lot that interests me. I will definitely check out the vimeo courses. If I were to sell a kidney and purchase his online drafting course (or perhaps save my alterations money for a year or two), do you think it would be worth it? Or is there a more cost effective way to learn the same thing in a book or by less expensive video courses?

Rory's video courses on vimeo are all excellent. However, I didn't have much interest in the drafting side of things so didn't rent the module. Edit: I'm sure that he had a drafting course for trousers on vimeo, but it's not linked. Again, I can't search vimeo (it's disallowed in the UK and EU apparently), but possibly it's on there somewhere?

With the construction lessons, a basic draft is given at the start of each course. He has an old school approach to drafting, typical of British tailors, which relies on proportions. Very little in the way of explanation is given, as is common with drafting books. I don't find that approach intuitive, and it's not for me.

Whether the drafting module proper is like that too, I couldn't say. And this isn't a criticism, btw, some people are quite happy following that approach. Just as long as you realize that those drafts are just to get you up and running. The real work is in the fitting of the garment.

Some of the video channels I linked to have lessons on drafting. It's the same type of approach though.

[Gerry]

I was looking in the wrong place. The pattern drafting module is available to view via this page (select metric or imperial).

https://www.handcrafttailor.com/basic-01

Again, I don't know what it's like, I didn't rent this course.

[Greger]

Some books are mentioned on this website. Some of the directions are very clear, while others are not. Clothes that are worn out are good for practice pockets. Directions in some of these books. Skill building. Do it wrong- take it apart and redo until quality standard. And lots more.

[jruley]

It would be great to learn to make my husband and I some nice clothes that fit well, maybe one day do some real tailoring.

As a fellow amateur, my suggestion would be:  Dive in!  Start with simple things and work your way up to the more sophisticated.  Fitting skills come from practice and can progress in parallel with other skills.

How about making pajamas?  There is at least one simple draft floating around the forum somewhere; I use it for my own PJ's and adapted it to fit my wife.  It's a nice gentle introduction to drafting, and no one outside the family needs to see any mistakes.  If you can find decent fabric at a good price you can save a bit of money.

If you've made a blouse, you can make your husband a shirt.  I would start with a commercial pattern that includes directions for finishing just to make it easy on yourself.  From there, you can experiment with shirt drafts for different styles, and learn about fitting.  A shirt can help foresee problems that need addressing in a vest or coat.

And then you can try trousers.  Again I would start with casual styles which don't have a lot of elaborate finishing. 

Leave coats for last, but once you've learned to make a decent looking shirt it's not a big jump to a casual style jacket.  A blazer or suit jacket is a whole 'nuther story!

[Hendrick]

It would be great to learn to make my husband and I some nice clothes that fit well, maybe one day do some real tailoring.

As a fellow amateur, my suggestion would be:  Dive in!  Start with simple things and work your way up to the more sophisticated.  Fitting skills come from practice and can progress in parallel with other skills.

How about making pajamas?  There is at least one simple draft floating around the forum somewhere; I use it for my own PJ's and adapted it to fit my wife.  It's a nice gentle introduction to drafting, and no one outside the family needs to see any mistakes.  If you can find decent fabric at a good price you can save a bit of money.

If you've made a blouse, you can make your husband a shirt.  I would start with a commercial pattern that includes directions for finishing just to make it easy on yourself.  From there, you can experiment with shirt drafts for different styles, and learn about fitting.  A shirt can help foresee problems that need addressing in a vest or coat.

And then you can try trousers.  Again I would start with casual styles which don't have a lot of elaborate finishing. 

Leave coats for last, but once you've learned to make a decent looking shirt it's not a big jump to a casual style jacket.  A blazer or suit jacket is a whole 'nuther story!

Fully agree!

As for pattern making and drafting; find a full method and learn to master it. I personally like to use a single method for men and women and tweak "dry patterns" towards what I want the finished product to look like...

Enjoy the trip,

Hendrick

[TTailor]

Learn and improve sewing skills first. Use commercial patterns and start withsimple garments like pyjama pants and different shirts. I would avoid trying to sew anything very fitted at first.
For new techniques like a welt pocket, Make samples on scrap fabric first to understand and master it before you sew the real fabric. Analyse garment construction so you can think through the how to on your own

 Dont be afraid to look for vintage commercial patterns(1980.s - 2000) look for old burda magazines that have patterns included

Fitting garments is another skill to master.

Drafting your own patterns is an advanced skill and you will be more succesful if your sewing and fitting skills are developed  first