Cutting Lining for a Donlon Wedge

[jruley]

For my latest jacket pattern, to reduce fullness in the skirt I removed some width and transferred the front dart to the side seam as shown:



Since I'm doing patch pockets, I placed the dart about 1" below the top of the pocket location so the corner will be concealed.  I believe this is a form of Donlon wedge (please correct me if wrong).

What is the best method for cutting the front lining?  A dog leg shaped dart would leave a weak spot.  I can think of two alternatives:

1) Put the skirt piece back in original position and take the dart down to the hem

2) Close the dart and transfer the upper part to the armscye.  This would take a lot less fabric.  If I do this, should I actually sew the dart or just work in the fullness?

Are there other methods?

[Hendrick]

For my latest jacket pattern, to reduce fullness in the skirt I removed some width and transferred the front dart to the side seam as shown:



Since I'm doing patch pockets, I placed the dart about 1" below the top of the pocket location so the corner will be concealed.  I believe this is a form of Donlon wedge (please correct me if wrong).

What is the best method for cutting the front lining?  A dog leg shaped dart would leave a weak spot.  I can think of two alternatives:

1) Put the skirt piece back in original position and take the dart down to the hem

2) Close the dart and transfer the upper part to the armscye.  This would take a lot less fabric.  If I do this, should I actually sew the dart or just work in the fullness?

Are there other methods?

Yes, in ladies' tailleurs we sometimes do an open pleat.

Cheers, Hendrick

[TTailor]

For the lining, I generally transfer the pocket dart down to the hem.

[TSjursen]

The "best" way depends entirely on how you decide to make up the coat if you ask me. If you're going very traditional old fashioned open coat procedure, basting in the linings without making any kind of pattern first, then you can just full on the required extra and no darts will be needed. A pleat up into the armhole is a good plan.

It is a bit easier to work with the linings if there is some shape put in beforehand. The usual way is to continue the dart down to the hem. The dart can also be placed in the seam joining the lining and facing, a common solution in factory production. You dont need the exact same shape in the lining as in the outer fabric, so there is no need to spend much time thinking about where to point the darts and so on, just make sure the lining is too long and too wide, and you will be fine. It needs to be bigger than you think, if it is going to last. Especially if you put things in your pockets.

[jruley]

Thank you Terri and Tsjursen.  I'm using Cabrera's method, which basically traces the body pieces but adds extra material all around.  Cabrera shows a double ended front dart, hence my question.

Here's what I've decided on, transferring the chest dart to the armhole and the pocket dart down to the hem.  I think sewing these closed would be the neatest option.